Basement Leaking Grading Issue / Drylock


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Old 08-30-14, 11:30 AM
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Basement Leaking Grading Issue / Drylock

Hello, My basement is leaking quite a bit. One wall is leaking quite heavily, I think its a grade issue as the dirt goes toward the house, but this particular wall has Cinder blocks all the way up except for the top 5 (the rest was built by 2x4s) and then the house over hangs it. There is also a large tree that I think is bowing in the foundation. I can not raise the dirt level without covering up my siding. Can not remove the siding as its just wood behind it. I also want to dry lock all 4 walls, going to start with the other three first. Any ideas what to do with that one wall? or expertise in general.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 12:35 PM
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You're wasting your time with DryLoc. The tree/foundation problem has to be addressed first It sounds like excavation is needed, at least on that one particular wall.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 01:33 PM
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Waterproofing is done from the outside. If you want to manage the water on the inside, install a drain system and sump pump. Dryloc is not the solution.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 02:49 PM
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The tree is the only real nice tree I have, should I cut it down? The house was built in 78, so its not terrible old. IF I dig out all the foundation then what?
 
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Old 08-30-14, 03:14 PM
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For every inch of rain you are getting over 50 gallons of water on just that one side (wild estimate). Gutters in cold country don't always do well and you didn't mention them. If you cant raise the soil level, is there a direction you can send the water, left or right, where it can drain away?

If you can't direct it away from the house in some direction on the surface, trying to waterproof the foundation is a losing battle, unless you do a Mike Holmes and that is major bucks.

I can't see what you see, but some form of drainage needs to be created to get rid of that water before your foundation has to deal with it.

As for the tree, if you are concerned about it pushing on the foundation, then it has probably already invaded your drainage system around the house. If it were mine it would be gone. We learn with age not to plant things with lots of roots within 20' of the house. Big trees even farther.

And ditto on the drylock, it is not a solution.

Bud
 
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Old 08-30-14, 03:47 PM
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You don't have to remove the entire tree. Expose the foundation, cut the roots & seal the foundation. I posted a site on how to handle the bowed wall, in another thread. If I can find it, I'll post it again.
 
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Old 09-01-14, 12:16 AM
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You might be able to fix the problem by chiseling around each tie location to create a hole about 1⁄2 inch deep and a couple of *inches in diameter. Chisel out as much of each tie as you can, then fill the hole with hydraulic cement. If the leaking doesnít stop, youíll have to take more drastic action by excavating around the outside of the foundation and patching that side. If thatís what you end up having to do, it would be a good time to see if your foundation needs a thicker waterproofing membrane and a footing drain.
 
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Old 09-09-14, 08:12 AM
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we're doing 1 now & the tree had to go otherwise my men couldn't work safely,,, we're patching block walls then installing a toe drain about 1/2down the foundation,,, waterproofing walls w/hlm5000 & covering that w/pond liner,,, since the elevation of the toe drain is lower than the street, we're also installing an exterior sump & zoeller m-53 pump,,, its not difficult but extremely labor-intensive

straightening a bowed wall is major work & can't be done w/o exterior excavation,,, we prefer hidden steel-reinforced wall pins in cmu walls,,, that way a future buyer won't ask ' why are those i-beams against the wall ? '

impo, drylock-type products are useful IF you're the seller of the stuff & you want a bigger boat
 
 

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