Replacing joists and subflooring disaster

Old 02-20-15, 06:29 PM
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Replacing joists and subflooring disaster

My wife's cat peed the dining room floor a while back. My friend was going to fix it for me. Come to find out all he needed to do was pull up the old carpet and pad, put some regular bleach on it, and cover it with Kilz stain blocking primer. Except now its too late. He already tore out huge pieces of 1 1/8" tongue and groove plywood. Half the dining room floor is torn up needlessly.

To make matters worse the floor joists are not what he expected. They run the whole length of the house. And they are spaced about 4 feet apart with no connecting cross beams. We can't even replace the entire floor because one piece runs beneath the kitchen wall. Now he says he can just patch the pieces he removed back in by screwing good plywood underneath. And he wants to add insulation underneath to hide the mess. And carpet over the top. He claims it will end up just as strong.

I think he's out of his mind. He's GREAT at laying tiles. But I think he's over his head on this project.

My son, on the other hand, has built houses from the ground up. But he's never seen this type of joist before. And neither of us know what the codes are. He brought over some 7/8" plywood and some 2 X 6 lumber. He wants to frame in the area and cover it with the new plywood. That sounds more reasonable to me. Though I think we should take the 7/8" back and get matching 1 1/8".

Whatever we end up doing I want it done right. But I don't know what to do. I can't leave it like this. There's a massive hole in the dining room floor. And I can't afford to have it done professionally.

Could somebody PLEASE advise me on how to proceed?
Old 02-20-15, 07:19 PM
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Going to have to guess your location since it's not in your profile.
West coast, US?
Only place I've ever heard of this type construction.
#1, Tell him to go away and never come back!!! He has no clue !!!
Add some pictures, makes no since from your post to "add insulation to cover up the mess"
There is no need to remove anything under the walls, just use a Toe Kick saw or a sawsall with a short course toothed blade to cut along the base of the wall.
Never even heard of 1-1/8 T & G plywood, may be a local thing, check around.
Even 7/8 plywood would be an odd ball, and what in the word does he plan on doing with 2 X 6's.
A 2 X 6 would be OK for about an 8' run.
Old 02-20-15, 09:09 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I'm very confused. First you said the floor could have have been cleaned. Then you said the plywood needed to be replaced. Now you're talking about replacing floor joists.

This cat must have really let loose here.

Pictures are definitely needed.
Old 02-20-15, 10:06 PM
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I've seen houses after a fire that needed less repairs then what this hack did.
Old 02-21-15, 12:08 AM
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I gotta agree with Joe. I live on the west coast and I have NEVER heard of either 1-1/8 or 7/8 inch plywood. Nor have I ever heard of floor joists that are four feet apart.

What I HAVE seen is floor construction that uses large beams, generally 4x6 or 6x6 dimensional lumber that could be four feet (or more) apart and then what is called two-inch "car decking" (railroad box car) over the beams. The car decking is generally double tongue and groove and is solid material, NOT plywood.

Also, NEVER use full strength bleach on wood as it will destroy it. Never use anything more than a 20% bleach-to-water solution and even then you need to wash it off with clear water.

PLUS, bleach is NOT the proper solution for cat urine, it will NOT destroy either the urine itself or the smell although humans may not smell it. You need an enzyme cleaner such as Nature's Miracle which you spray onto the urine stain and let it dry. DO NOT wipe the enzyme cleaner, you must let it dry naturally for it to do its job. Sometimes multiple applications of the enzyme cleaner are necessary, allowing it to dry after each application.
Old 02-21-15, 05:13 AM
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1-1/8" is made and I know it is used in certain types of construction in NYC. I have used some 1-1/2" finish ply for fixtures and furniture. I have also seen the 1-1/8" in certain modular const. So maybe that is what he has.

I could see spanning the beams he has with the 2"x6"s and laying in the 7/8" if that is what he can get. Or certainly use 3/4" the same way.

Choose your friends wisely, this seems like a total goof-up. Should never have torn things up to this extent.

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