Drop Ceiling before the dry wall

Old 06-25-15, 12:47 PM
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Drop Ceiling before the dry wall

I just bought a house that already had a drop ceiling installed. The previous owners put up wood paneling everywhere and i want to replace it with drywall. The drop ceiling track is attached to the wood paneling so I'm wondering, do I have to take the entire drop ceiling down to replace the wood paneling or could i just take the track down along the outside and then put it back up once the drywall is in? If not how big a deal is it to take the whole drop ceiling down & can I put the same drop ceiling back up rather easily?
Old 06-25-15, 01:16 PM
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It's probably not necessary to remove the paneling unless you really want or need to for some reason. If the panelling is 1/2" thick, then yeah, it might be best to remove it for the sake of electrical outlets, and trim around windows and doors.

You can remove the perimeter tiles, as well as the wall angle and any short cross tees that sit on the wall angle. Then the problem will be the main tees. You will need to cut them 1/2" shorter if you intend to slip 1/2" drywall behind them. Since they are close to the wall, I would suggest using a 4 1/2" grinder and a thin 1/16" x 4 1/2" metal abrasive wheel to cut them off cleanly. That will allow you to slide the drywall up behind and finish it.

Then once the drywall has been finish sanded, primed and painted, you can put the wall angle back up and reinstall everything, cutting the cross tees to length as needed, since they will probably also need to be 1/2" shorter.

As a hint, leave the drywall screws unfinished (don't mud them) if they are above the wall angle. That will help you know where the studs are when you go to nail the wall angle up.

The cross tees are sometimes a real pain in the neck to unhook. An awl or utility knife and some patient wiggling are often required.
Old 06-25-15, 02:00 PM
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Solution #2. May not be perfect, but install white cap trim on your sheetrock, jamb it to the wall angle and screw it up. The cap trim will be caulkable where it abuts the wall angle, and it may not be all that obtrusive.

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