Attic Mold


  #1  
Old 09-11-15, 12:25 PM
G
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Attic Mold

Hi

I read thread
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ba...d-attic.html#b
As it is closed i am opening this one.

My conclusion based on it is that product cal-brite seems to be a very good option to sanitize mold (killing and removing).

But manufacture only sells it to authorized dealers which are basically companies that provide mold remediation. The problem is that the cost of their services are astronomical.

In the post they mention other products like concrobium, foster, bleack with vinager but they dont seem to be as effective as.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks
Gleudson
 
  #2  
Old 09-11-15, 01:06 PM
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Never heard of it. That doesn't mean much because they are tons of products. Id make sure the product is EPA approved for its use. Not just have EPA approved chemical in it. I have used Foster 40-80 for years.
 
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Old 01-17-16, 08:27 PM
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Hi

I purchased and applied Foster 40-80 in my attic. Just a small portion. It does require scrubbing and unfortunately i could not remove all black spots.

I researched again and the only EPA i found is cal-brite which is only sold for partners. I don't understand this kind of business and why a company would not sell their products to anyone who would like to purchase them.
Environmentally safe mold remediation and mold removal business opportunity

I am thinking on going to HAZMAT products like RMR-86 and MMR
RMR Solutions, LLC | Mold Removal in 15 Seconds, RMR-86« is the fastest mold remover.
Fast Mold Removal | MMR Mold Stain Remover | Mold Disinfectants

They seam to be very effective.

Anyone had experience with a mold removal EPA product?
If if decide to use the HAZMAT what sort of precautions should i take? With myself and the attic?

Thanks in advance for your comments
 
  #4  
Old 01-17-16, 08:31 PM
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OK, let's back up a bit - why and where do you have mold and what have you done to prevent its recurrence?
 
  #5  
Old 01-17-16, 08:45 PM
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I don't understand this kind of business and why a company would not sell their products to anyone who would like to purchase them.
Part of it is that many, many products are restricted from the general public by law. There are many reasons for this and chief among them is that the average person seems (not seams) to think that if a little is good then a lot must be excellent. As a result the lay person tends to go way overboard in the strength and amount of chemical they use and this can be hazardous to the environment as a whole AND to the person doing the application.
 
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Old 01-18-16, 03:50 AM
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OK, let's back up a bit - why and where do you have mold and what have you done to prevent its recurrence?

I agree with the point. Here's some important questions:
  • What surface area are you talking about (3 sq. feet or 30)?
  • Has it entered the house, beyond the attic?
  • What surface are we dealing with (metal, wood, or another)? Is it on insulation or in the HVAC?
  • Have you stopped the moisture source? If not, treating alone won't stop it.

There's different types of mold. A picture will help.

Generally speaking, assuming it's on wood in a small area, I'd do the following:
  • Chlorine bleach to remove the surface issues.
  • Hydrogen peroxide to go deeper.
  • A paste of borax to get at what lingers.
 

Last edited by Tony P.; 01-18-16 at 06:05 AM.
  #7  
Old 01-18-16, 04:39 AM
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When I was a licenced exterminator this is all we used to treat mold and fungus.
It also kills wood boring insects.
BORA-CARE« WITH MOLD-CARE« ┬╗ Nisus Corp
 
  #8  
Old 01-18-16, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the responses. Below my comments

I don't understand this kind of business and why a company would not sell their products to anyone who would like to purchase them.

Part of it is that many, many products are restricted from the general public by law. There are many reasons for this and chief among them is that the average person seems (not seams) to think that if a little is good then a lot must be excellent. As a result the lay person tends to go way overboard in the strength and amount of chemical they use and this can be hazardous to the environment as a whole AND to the person doing the application.
Understood. But i would expect that for HAZMAT and not for EPA products.

OK, let's back up a bit - why and where do you have mold and what have you done to prevent its recurrence?
I agree with the point. Here's some important questions:
What surface area are you talking about (3 sq. feet or 30)?
Has it entered the house, beyond the attic?
What surface are we dealing with (metal, wood, or another)? Is it on insulation or in the HVAC?
Have you stopped the moisture source? If not, treating alone won't stop it.
There's different types of mold. A picture will help.
I purchased this 12 year's old house last July. Mold is located in the attic above laundry area. It is not a big area and there are few spots.
Dryer duct was not correctly connected to external vent and to complete the scenario, laundry exhaust vent also was not properly connected to the duct that goes to roof resulting in leaking of hot humid air. Through the years it created the mold i am putting the picture below.
As i fixed these problems i believe i fixed root cause for mold.
Mold was identified during inspection and i got some bucks discounted in the deal for that. Of course, when i called companies to have quote for the remediation it turned about to be 2 or 3 times more than expected.
Mold is only in the attic plywood. I would say it is around 15 sq feet.
Insulation looks good.

Name:  mold.jpg
Views: 3330
Size:  28.0 KB

As you can see in the picture it doesn't look bad. Next sessions around this picture have a little bit more mold.
I cleaned the session beside this one (picture) that had more mold with Foster 40-80.
Result was not that good. There are still some spots.

Hence my recent post.

Thanks again for your comments.
 
  #9  
Old 01-18-16, 12:39 PM
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The Bora Care will kill the mold and stop it from coming back.
 
  #10  
Old 01-18-16, 12:56 PM
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If you're inclined, the project seems very doable but not easy. It will take some time, effort, and elbow grease.

My earlier comment seems to apply:
  • Chlorine bleach to remove the surface issues, mix a concentration of 50% bleach.
  • Hydrogen peroxide (3%) to go deeper.
  • A paste of borax to get at what lingers.

Get a spray bottle or two for the chlorine mix and hydrogen peroxide. Wear an N95 or better mask, cheap goggles and rubber gloves, a hat and old clothes. Use old rags / brush and clean the mold, being careful not to spread it.

The chlorine will kill the surface mold but will not get deeply in semi-porous material like wood. Wait day or two and do the same with hydrogen peroxide (3%) straight from the bottle.

Lastly, wait a day or two and follow up with borax mixed with water into a paste. Spread it over the impacted area, making certain to get it into groves in the wood.

If necessary, follow-up. Get rid of everything you used. BTW, get some plastic in a paint store to spread around to make certain nothing spills.
 
  #11  
Old 01-18-16, 01:20 PM
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Or spray on the Bora Care with a pump sprayer and forget about it.
Might take a whole 1/2 hour.
 
  #12  
Old 01-21-16, 10:34 PM
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Thanks for the responses.

Half an hour seems easier : )
Bora care will clean the black spots as well or only kill the mold?
 
 

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