Framing Basement Wall Steps


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Old 11-21-15, 06:58 AM
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Framing Basement Wall Steps

I’m finally forcing myself to start on my basement finishing project, and the first thing I’m working towards is beaming out the walls. And as Helmuth von Moltke once said, no plan survives first contact.
I’ve done and lot of reading both here and on the web, and below are the main/basic steps am planning to take, have a few questions and was wondering if anyone see’s any faults or has any tips.
  1. I intent to build each wall in place versus on the floor.
  2. I will be installing half inch Rigid foam first on to the walls to act a moisture barrier, and using PL300 adhesive to glue to them to the walls. My basement is already typically very dry with no moisture or water issues in the 7 years we have been in the home.
  3. I will then install a top plate using screws temporarily.
  4. I will lay down a PT bottom plate, but will not anchor the bottom plate till later.
  5. Next would be to cut each stud and fit onto the wall.
  6. When the wall is ‘complete’, I would then ensure the entire wall and studs are level and square.
  7. Assuming everything is good, I would then permantaly nail in the top plate, as well as secure PT bottom plate either with a drill and TapCon or maybe use powder hammer / ramset. One other possibly easier anchor for the bottom plate would using a HammerSet Anchor likes these from HD HammerSet Anchors


Now after the wall is in place, I would drill into each stud to run and install wiring for lights, outlets, etc.

After the wiring all looks good, I would then add Batts between each stud. And then eventually apply the sheetrock.

Does the above seem ok? These are all non-load bearing walls, and I think I’ve got a decent general plan of attack. But any tips would be great.
 

Last edited by ptmuldoon; 11-21-15 at 07:34 AM.
  #2  
Old 11-21-15, 07:35 AM
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How long is this wall?
If it's an outside wall air seal the sill plate and any holes where wiring or plumbing was run first.
Use 2" not 1/2" foam for any real value.
Foam is not considered a vapor barrier, 6 mil. plastic would be.
I find it easier to assemble the top and bottom plate and the two end studs (Add one in the middle if it's a long wall.
Snap a chaulk on the floor to make sure the bottom plate is going to be straight, stand up the wall, attach the bottom plate to the floor then check the studs for plumb, nail in top plate.
 
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Old 11-21-15, 08:18 AM
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Wall

Ignore this post. The word "steps" has two meanings. I took the wrong one.
 
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Old 11-21-15, 08:25 AM
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"Beaming out the walls", "wall steps", left me confused to.
 
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Old 11-21-15, 11:10 AM
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Sorry for any confusion. When I say 'beaming' out the wall', i was just trying to say building the walls.

the 3 outside walls will be about 25 feet each. And thank you your the tip on air sealing where there is a plumbing or wires.

I guess my main concern was is it ok to temporary anchor your top bottom plates until done?

And then regarding steps. I had read you should
1. Build your walls.
2. Run your wiring and any plumbing
3. Then do your batts and insulation.

Wiring before insulation, and not install batts/insulation and run the wires in front of it.

I was planning to use this 1/2 Rigid Foam Super-TUFF-R-1-2 against the walls as a barrier. Do you really think 2" is necessary if you are still going to put Batts between the studs as well?
 
  #6  
Old 11-21-15, 03:01 PM
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Really want to take the chance of condensation forming inside the walls from the differences in temp. inside the walls?
Cost is minimal compaired to the cost of getting rid of the mold and doing it over.
 
 

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