Basement load bearing wall


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Old 01-13-23, 02:38 PM
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Basement load bearing wall

One of my tired wooden beams in the basement has a bit of sag in it and I was going to build up a load bearing 2x6 wall under it just to give it some more support. I want to build this about 1/3 the length of the beam and end at a specific telepost.
I have 2 questions:
1. Do I need a double top plate on my wall under the beam?
2. Do I build the wall around the metal top plate of the telepost or should I remove that metal plate (using bracing of course) and then adjust telepost down and reinstall the metal plate and have it pushing up on my new wall's top plate versus directly on the beam?

Thanks everyone!
 
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Old 01-13-23, 02:49 PM
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1). No, not necessary.

2). I would just notch your top plate to fit over the metal plate.
 
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Old 01-13-23, 02:52 PM
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I don't have any water issues, do you think I would need a PT sill plate and/or sill gasket?
 
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Old 01-13-23, 03:09 PM
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You're always supposed to use PT when framing is in direct contact with concete. You don't need a gasket on an interior wall.
 
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Old 01-13-23, 04:21 PM
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I would jack up the low point in the beam and install support walls on either side of the jack point. I would cross braces the studs in the new walls, both sides, to prevent racking if/when the jack is removed.
 
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Old 01-13-23, 07:38 PM
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The cause was one of my original 100 year old wooden posts has settled. So I am jacking up on either side - have some temp teleposts that I am using as well. Will jack up the beam the 1/4 inch (over a couple weeks) and shim the post with some steel I have. Then pull the temp posts and jack out and build the 2x6 wall underneath, thinking that should disperse the load enough for another 100 years....
 
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Old 02-27-23, 04:35 PM
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Unable to notch top plate for the metal post's top plate - would block the adjusting screw at the top, do you think it would be ok to have the telepost pusing up under the top plate of the new wall?
 
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Old 02-27-23, 05:07 PM
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Once you build the wall you don't need the adjustable post. 2 studs on the end would replace it. So if your wall is extending to enclose the adjustable post, put in some temporary 2x4s as a post, remove the adjustable post, move it over a few inches, reinstall it, remove the temporary post, then build your new wall. Once it's done, remove the adjustable post because it is now unnecessary.
 
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Old 02-28-23, 08:39 AM
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the posts are cemented into the floor, so they aren't leaving....
 
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Old 02-28-23, 08:50 AM
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Ok, nothing wrong with lowering it to run the top plate through, then raising it up again.
 
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