In the process of waterproofing interior walls


  #1  
Old 09-22-01, 06:46 AM
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I'm in the process of waterproofing my 1920 Bungalow basement in Edmond, OK. I've already spent the summer filling cracks – advice is dearly wanted.

1) I have DryLocked the cracks on all walls and have noticed hairline cracks appearing in the DryLock. Is this bad? I chisled the cracks to 1/2 inch deep as instruced.

2) When it rains these DryLocked areas get damp, some leak, some just damp. Is this normal due to the porous nature of concrete?

3) I have painted the problem areas with two coats of DryLock waterproof paint after cleaning with TSP before I painted the rest of the nonproblem areas as a test. The paint seemed to have stopped the leaking-we have had several major (3" +) of rain since I painted. I have noticed that the cracks I filled have shown new hairline cracks thru the paint as well (only about 2% of the filled cracks are doing this). Is this a bad sign? Overall the paint seems to work well, so I will continue to paint the entire basement.

4) Where I have painted, there seems to be new leaks forming where the wall and floor meet. I don't think this was happening before I painted. Is the paint causing the water to find a new entry? I've been told to seel all wall-to-floor gaps with silicon caulk. Will this prevent the leaks? Will it cause the water to go under the floor and crack the floors?

5) I probably know the answer to this but - Since I own a Bungalow and like the exposed rafter tails, is there an outside solution other than gutters? The slope from the fondation walls appears OK. I wouldn't say they are slopped alot. The slope appears to extend three feet from the foundation and is somewhat of a minor slope- approx. 1 1/2" per foot for three feet. Should I slope more? Would this prevent the need to add gutters?

6) The summers in Oklahoma are very dry. The ground around the foundation pulled away about 1 1/2" from the foundation this summer. Does this contraction cause damage to the walls? When it rains I'm sure water runs down the foundation that much easier. Is putting a soaker hose around the foundation in the summer to keep the ground attached to the foundation a good idea?

7) Is the "water-barrier" product that forms a water channel inside the basement around the edges a godd idea? If the water runs to the sump pump and then gets pumped out, should the sump pump hose go well outside the foundation like an extended gutter?

Thanks much
Rob (Bungalow lover)
 
  #2  
Old 09-24-01, 04:00 AM
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1) Drylock may have had to much to bridge. Fill as needed.
2) Yes - Drylock helps, but I don't believe it will hold back heavy hydrostatic pressure fully.
3) Agree - It is helping
4) Consider glused down channels to catch water around the perimeter and a sump pump.
5) ?? not my area of expertise
6) Walls were not meant to lay in a swimming pool. Pouring a tar like waterproofer against the basement outside in the crackin areas should help.
7)Yes. Keeps floor drier.
8) Also think about a good dehumidifier.
 
  #3  
Old 09-26-01, 03:54 PM
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Basement walls

Make sure soil at foundation is graded 1" for every foot sloping away from the foundation. Gutters and downspouts need to be clear and draining away from the foundation. If there is a foundation drainage system, you need to know if it has become filled with silt. Dehumidifiers and fans will improve humity and ventilation problems in basement area. Sealing foundation cracks and 2-3 coats of masonry sealer on the interior should seal interior foundation walls. Driveway and other areas should be sloped to make sure runoff and snowmelt does not go toward foundation. The best way to check runoff problems is to go outside during a heavy rainstorm and observe what is going on. Severe problems may require digging out around foundation and sealing exterior of foundation and assuring foundation drainage system is clear and working.
 
  #4  
Old 09-26-01, 04:05 PM
rbisys
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See my suggestion for bazooka 227. No matter what you do inside, you still have the pressure.

I know you're frustration, my mom has a 1926 house.
 
 

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