well, its not really a question but a request for some ideas and methods of working with the steel studs. I did one basement about 12 years ago and have recently moved and undertaking the procedure again.
I really enjoy working with this product, for its ease of use and relatively inexpensive nature, not to mention its all screwed together for easy fixes. Ive put down some of the things ive found to be useful when using these products. Please add any suggestions or tips you might have from workin with them also. thanks

1. Get "Pony" clamps, and use to squeeze the stud to the track when you screw the two together, i used to use a leather glove, but its much more effecient and less painful.
2. I prefer using the simple pan head screw (7/16) rather than the self tapping variety, the point on the simple version grabs the steel nicely so you dont spin off.
3. Attach top tracks first, i find this to be easier, to put the top track in first, i chalk out my guideline and then attach using the studs to level/plumb out the bottom, also gives me the opportunity to move it, if need be.
4. using the bottom track, as a stiffening brace in the center, ive been using a brand of steel studs that comes premarked w/8" centers, i cut out tabs and lay the track sideways to the wall and screw, really helps tighten it up specially if you cant get to the back side of the studs to fasten
well that is about all the time i have for now, one question i would like to throw out is, has anyone used the punch riveter tool that is available, for fastening together, i really would like to attach the backs, that are close to the back wall, rahter than spen the money on the right angle drill, im tempted to buy the punch/riveter, anyone, thoughts?....thanks

 

The crimp makes fast work however it works well on thicker gauge studs. These are more availble at independant yards and not Home Depot. You won't need clamps or gloves as you can crimp the front and back and their are only screws around doors. I don't follow on the center brace idea. The applied Sheetrock will stiffen and brace the entire wall.
One tip.
Metal studs are narrow so if you lose a few 1/8's the sheetrock egde won't have much to grab so double check the stud that will carry a sheetrock edge before crimping.

Two tips.

Install the sheetrock screws from the ground up so the stud is held tight and does not roll back when the screw head puts pressure on it.

 

The center bracing is a good idea in a couple of situations. If you know you'll be hanging cabinets then certainly add the bracing. I also had a situation where I had to work around several obstructions overhead so the studs weren't going to be evenly spaced 16" oc. I anchored those I could and used the bracing to help stiffen the wall.

For a regular wall, you don't need to add the bracing.

 

I've used the Malco crimp tool with mixed success - sometimes the crimps pop apart when handling the studs after assembly (like when attaching electrical boxes). I also tried screws, but found it kind of slow with having to move the clamps every time.

What I am doing now is a "hybrid" solution - I am using the crimp tool to get the walls up and in place quickly. Then I go back and reinforce the crimps with screws - the hole in the center of the crimp is a pilot for the screw. Just takes a couple of seconds per screw - much faster than using clamps and a screw gun. Once the reinforcing screw is in, I can push pretty hard on the stud flange and it won't separate from the track.

 

how about attaching plastic electrical boxes to the steel studs? Im driving drywall screws through the boxes and into the studs, but something tells me this probably isnt good cause of the possible short to the screw from bare wire contact? should i just find the right size screw and use inplace of the nails that come with the box? thanks

 

Home depot carries a box specifically for metal studs. It clips to the stud and a 7/16 panhead is used to secure it.

 

I use 4x4 metal boxes specifically designed to clamp onto metal studs. These can be used for any single or 2-gang applciation with the use of an appropriate mud ring. Two side benefits: (1) the stud wall gets a solid connection to ground and (2) the box/mudring combination is big enough so you almost never get into a tight cable-fill situation.

For attaching the cable to the metal studs I used Caddy CJ6 cable supports - see http://www.erico.com/erico_public/pr...mCbleSpprt.asp for details. You probably need to get these in an electrical supply house. These are probably overkill for a residential application, but the electrician advising me mainly does commercial wiring.

 

I did a basement about 6 years ago and like you really enjoyed working with the steel studs. I recently did my new basement and used the crimping tool and it wors very well. FAST and EASY, i especially like having the ability to fasten the front AND back of the studs to the top and bottom tracks.