couple of questions
#1
12-16-01, 10:34 AM
couple of questions
I am in the very begining stages of finishing my basement. The house is a split entry.
1. what are the advantages/disadvantages of 16"/24" on center studs?
2.How do I heat the rooms? Do I run ductwork to each room with vents? If so where and how are the vents placed?
3. The previous owner started a (half) wall in front of the ledge wall (it is a walkout). The framing is approx 3" higher than the block. Should I continue like this? Would I attach blocking (wood) to the block ledge to make level the top plate of the wall and the block ledge, so I can trim it out as a shelf?
4. Is there a norm for distance between new wall and exterior block wall? Vapor barriers on both sides?
Thanks in advance
Darren
1. what are the advantages/disadvantages of 16"/24" on center studs?
2.How do I heat the rooms? Do I run ductwork to each room with vents? If so where and how are the vents placed?
3. The previous owner started a (half) wall in front of the ledge wall (it is a walkout). The framing is approx 3" higher than the block. Should I continue like this? Would I attach blocking (wood) to the block ledge to make level the top plate of the wall and the block ledge, so I can trim it out as a shelf?
4. Is there a norm for distance between new wall and exterior block wall? Vapor barriers on both sides?
Thanks in advance
Darren
#2
12-16-01, 11:41 AM
Member
1. 16" o.c. studs gives you straighter, firmer walls, and provides more places for attachment of electrical boxes, and later, pictures and shelving. 24" o.c. studs saves you a bit of money and time (not enough in my opinion).
2. I assume you have forced air heat. Yes, run ducts to every room. Do not piggy-back vents off the ducts serving upstairs, or you'll have a noise transmission problem. Usually the registers are in the ceiling because that's easier to do. Putting them near the floor would be better, but may not be feasible. Put at least one return register centrally located. But usually, because heat rises, the basement will be cooler than upstairs no matter what you do. Plan some extra electrical capacity so that you can use portable space heaters to remedy spot problems.
3. You have choices. You can simply run the existing wall all the way up to the ceiling. Or you can make a ledge here (great place to set your beer). The ledge can be made of a nice piece of stained oak if you want, or can simply be painted pine. Run a ledger board along the upper wall to provide a place to attach the outside of the ledge.
4. Normally, about an inch or air space between the framed wall and the foundation is about right. You definitely want a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation (just under the drywall). You normally do not want a vapor barrier against the foundation. But check locally to see what is normally done in your area -- practices vary by climate, soil type, and degree of water problems.
2. I assume you have forced air heat. Yes, run ducts to every room. Do not piggy-back vents off the ducts serving upstairs, or you'll have a noise transmission problem. Usually the registers are in the ceiling because that's easier to do. Putting them near the floor would be better, but may not be feasible. Put at least one return register centrally located. But usually, because heat rises, the basement will be cooler than upstairs no matter what you do. Plan some extra electrical capacity so that you can use portable space heaters to remedy spot problems.
3. You have choices. You can simply run the existing wall all the way up to the ceiling. Or you can make a ledge here (great place to set your beer). The ledge can be made of a nice piece of stained oak if you want, or can simply be painted pine. Run a ledger board along the upper wall to provide a place to attach the outside of the ledge.
4. Normally, about an inch or air space between the framed wall and the foundation is about right. You definitely want a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation (just under the drywall). You normally do not want a vapor barrier against the foundation. But check locally to see what is normally done in your area -- practices vary by climate, soil type, and degree of water problems.
#3
12-16-01, 02:27 PM
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#4
12-29-01, 02:32 PM
Regarding the ledge thing. After further inspection the top plate of the existing framed (half) wall. It seems a bit high. If I place a 2x (which I assume the oak shelf would be) over the top plate. The top plate fits just under the window jamb. There is no room for the casing. It seems it would be easier to shorten the studs, so the top plate is flush with the block.
If I do this, can I place the finished oak board directly on the block, and nail down into the top plate?
Any thoughts?
Also with the heat registers. Are we talking normal registers like I would have in the upstairs? I will be installing a drop ceiling, so are there special registers for that type of application?
Thanks again
Darren
If I do this, can I place the finished oak board directly on the block, and nail down into the top plate?
Any thoughts?
Also with the heat registers. Are we talking normal registers like I would have in the upstairs? I will be installing a drop ceiling, so are there special registers for that type of application?
Thanks again
Darren
