Basement Refinish
#1
01-09-02, 06:06 AM
Basement Refinish
I have purchased my first home about 1 year ago. My next project on the house is to refinish my basement. As there have been moisture problems in the past, I am faced with taking down the old knotty pine panelling so I can patch cracks in the foundation and then dry-lock. After doing so, I want to put up drywall instead of the original panelling.
After taking down the first wall of panelling, I am curious as to whether or not to use the existing framing (2X4 nailed flat against the concrete), or tear it down and reframe the wall completly.
I am planning on using rigid foam insulation between the drywall and the foundation, and would prefer to use the framing that is already there in addition to adding a little bit more for securely fastening the drywall. Does this sound like an okay plan? Also, does the lumber need to be treated?
After taking down the first wall of panelling, I am curious as to whether or not to use the existing framing (2X4 nailed flat against the concrete), or tear it down and reframe the wall completly.
I am planning on using rigid foam insulation between the drywall and the foundation, and would prefer to use the framing that is already there in addition to adding a little bit more for securely fastening the drywall. Does this sound like an okay plan? Also, does the lumber need to be treated?
#2
01-10-02, 12:34 AM
my thoughts....
1. The drylock may work depending on where and how much water (moisture) is involved. And if you do have a moisture problem it will only last a few years. The only long-term effective moisture solution is done on the outside.
2. Do not put the studs in contact with the foundation, even with drylock on the walls. The wood serves to wick moisture. Leave a gap of an inch or so. No the studs do not need to be treated. You may want to consider treated lumber for the bottom plate.
3. If there was a moisture problem before, I don't expect the existing studs to be in good shape - could be mold/mildew on them. Plan on replacing.
2. Do not put the studs in contact with the foundation, even with drylock on the walls. The wood serves to wick moisture. Leave a gap of an inch or so. No the studs do not need to be treated. You may want to consider treated lumber for the bottom plate.
3. If there was a moisture problem before, I don't expect the existing studs to be in good shape - could be mold/mildew on them. Plan on replacing.
#3
01-10-02, 04:37 AM
Thank you very much for your input. I agree that the moisture problem needs to be addressed outside. I am planning on replacing gutters, and landscaping to direct flow away from the house in early Spring.
I will plan on reframing everything, using your suggestion of PT for the bottom plate. One more question, do I need a vapor barrier in front of unfaced batts, or should I just use kraft faced? Thanks again for your help.
I will plan on reframing everything, using your suggestion of PT for the bottom plate. One more question, do I need a vapor barrier in front of unfaced batts, or should I just use kraft faced? Thanks again for your help.
