Framing knee wall
#1
01-19-02, 08:49 AM
Framing knee wall--HELLO ANYONE HERE?? Advice please.
Two sides of my walkout basement have a half height poured foundation with finished sheet rock walls above. I'm refinishing the basement and want to build knee walls inside the foundation and cap with a 10" oak plate. My questions:
What's the best height to frame the knee wall? The top of the poured foundation isn't perfectly level so should I frame to a level string line, shim and put pressure treated wood spanning the foundation AND the knee wall? Seems like this approach may make shimming difficult.
I'm using metal studs and want a board on top of the knee wall and foundation for nailing the oak top plate. Using the spanning PT approach solves the issue to anchoring the top of the wall as well. Alternately, I'll anchor the metal studs to the foundation wall near the top using angles cut from bottom channel.
Suggestions?
What's the best height to frame the knee wall? The top of the poured foundation isn't perfectly level so should I frame to a level string line, shim and put pressure treated wood spanning the foundation AND the knee wall? Seems like this approach may make shimming difficult.
I'm using metal studs and want a board on top of the knee wall and foundation for nailing the oak top plate. Using the spanning PT approach solves the issue to anchoring the top of the wall as well. Alternately, I'll anchor the metal studs to the foundation wall near the top using angles cut from bottom channel.
Suggestions?
#2
03-03-03, 06:17 AM
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I'm shooting this one TTT....
I have the same exact question. Should I just span the distance from the wood portion of the wall out to the new, framed knee wall with PT 2x4s? It's only about 6". This way I can secure the top of the wall and also have a platform for the 6" trim board that will go on top. Otherwise, how could I secure the top of the newly framed knee wall. I can't attach it to the poured foundation because it's not square (the wooden wall resting atop it is, though).
TIA,
Jim
I have the same exact question. Should I just span the distance from the wood portion of the wall out to the new, framed knee wall with PT 2x4s? It's only about 6". This way I can secure the top of the wall and also have a platform for the 6" trim board that will go on top. Otherwise, how could I secure the top of the newly framed knee wall. I can't attach it to the poured foundation because it's not square (the wooden wall resting atop it is, though).
TIA,
Jim
#3
03-04-03, 03:08 AM
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Okay....TTT again. I have more ?s
Here are pics of the kneewall:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/knee_wall-1.jpg
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/knee_wall-2.jpg
You can see in the second pic that I have wires to contend with. They run across the entire width of the house at the top plate. Rather than notch each and every stud to recess the wires, can I put 2x2 firring strips along the existing studs to space the drywall out 1 1/2"? The only potential problem would be at the top - there would be a gap between the firring strip and the joist to allow the wire to pass through. I figure I could get it down to about 1/2". Will the sheetrock be okay if there is a small gap in the firring at the ceiling?
Here's another set of pics - the question is can I take this wall out without my house falling down on top of me:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stairs-1.jpg
I want to take the studs out marked by the red arrows. The blue circle indicates studs that are holding the floor up. There is nothing above this except floor and another set of stairs. Behind the stairs (to the right in the pic), about 8 feet, is the foundation wall. Bottom line is that these 2 joists aren't really supporting any weight or spanning much distance. I think the wall is cosmetic. Just looking for opinions.
Here's a couple more pics:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stair-2.jpg
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stair-3.jpg
Sorry for the long post.
Jim
Here are pics of the kneewall:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/knee_wall-1.jpg
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/knee_wall-2.jpg
You can see in the second pic that I have wires to contend with. They run across the entire width of the house at the top plate. Rather than notch each and every stud to recess the wires, can I put 2x2 firring strips along the existing studs to space the drywall out 1 1/2"? The only potential problem would be at the top - there would be a gap between the firring strip and the joist to allow the wire to pass through. I figure I could get it down to about 1/2". Will the sheetrock be okay if there is a small gap in the firring at the ceiling?
Here's another set of pics - the question is can I take this wall out without my house falling down on top of me:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stairs-1.jpg
I want to take the studs out marked by the red arrows. The blue circle indicates studs that are holding the floor up. There is nothing above this except floor and another set of stairs. Behind the stairs (to the right in the pic), about 8 feet, is the foundation wall. Bottom line is that these 2 joists aren't really supporting any weight or spanning much distance. I think the wall is cosmetic. Just looking for opinions.
Here's a couple more pics:
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stair-2.jpg
http://jimmyz.tzo.com:231/stair-3.jpg
Sorry for the long post.
Jim
