Stage 1 Budget - Steel wall construction
#1

Thought this might be helpful to others - and if something obvious is missing - let me know!
I have a 30x30 poured concrete basement to finish. Stage 1 of my project is wall construction. Here's the list of needed items and their cost:
1. 100 Steel studs 2x4x8 @ 1.27 each
2. 25 Steel tracks 2x4x10 @ 2.00 each
3. 5 - 1lb. Pan head screws 7/16" @ 4.50 each
4. Screw gun with clutch @ 75.00
5. 12 2x4x10 treated wood studs for soles @ 3.50 each
6. 2 boxes 6mm Poly vapor barrier 10x100 @ 25.00 each
7. Staple gun for Poly @ 30.00
8. Nail gun for wood/steel sole @ 70.00
9. 3 Pony clamps for holding steel in place @ 3.00 each
10. Tin Snips @ 15.00
I already have the saw for the wood, concrete nails and leather gloves. Also have the chalk and plumb line, and staples for the gun.
I am skipping the crimper (60.00) and don't plan to hang heavy cabintes that would require extra wood.
Total: approx. 500 bucks (only 300 if you have the tools)
I have a 30x30 poured concrete basement to finish. Stage 1 of my project is wall construction. Here's the list of needed items and their cost:
1. 100 Steel studs 2x4x8 @ 1.27 each
2. 25 Steel tracks 2x4x10 @ 2.00 each
3. 5 - 1lb. Pan head screws 7/16" @ 4.50 each
4. Screw gun with clutch @ 75.00
5. 12 2x4x10 treated wood studs for soles @ 3.50 each
6. 2 boxes 6mm Poly vapor barrier 10x100 @ 25.00 each
7. Staple gun for Poly @ 30.00
8. Nail gun for wood/steel sole @ 70.00
9. 3 Pony clamps for holding steel in place @ 3.00 each
10. Tin Snips @ 15.00
I already have the saw for the wood, concrete nails and leather gloves. Also have the chalk and plumb line, and staples for the gun.
I am skipping the crimper (60.00) and don't plan to hang heavy cabintes that would require extra wood.
Total: approx. 500 bucks (only 300 if you have the tools)
#2
I don't trust concrete nails myself...I prefer to screw the bottom plate in with Tapcons (concrete screws). They cost a little more but they hold a helluva lot better.
If you don't have a hammer-drill...disregard this post
BTW you'll never get good calluses with those gloves
If you don't have a hammer-drill...disregard this post

BTW you'll never get good calluses with those gloves

#4
Poly for vapor barrier
The poly will go between the unfaced side of the insulation and the concrete wall. On two walls its easy - there is a wood joist that runs the length of the wall that I will staple to at the top. I haven't figured out yet how I'll do it to the other two walls, maybe run some furring strips between the joists to staple to.
#5
Another Question
Thanks for the feedback, I have a Reader's Digest DO-It-Yourself book and they are putting the poly on the room side of the insulation. Wonder why they would say to put it there?
Also I have been told not to put the insulation all the way to the floor of the basement, just to two feet below the outside grade because of possible cracking of foundation if moisture got in. (this I think applies only to the NorthEast). What have you heard?
Also I have been told not to put the insulation all the way to the floor of the basement, just to two feet below the outside grade because of possible cracking of foundation if moisture got in. (this I think applies only to the NorthEast). What have you heard?
