Eager to start
#1
04-30-02, 08:51 AM
Eager to start
Hi guys.
I’m preparing to finish my basement and have been reading this side for the past month. Great info. I have my plans done and before starting the framing decided to run this by you.
I’ll be using metal studs 3 1/2 inch 25 GA – 16 inch. OC – found in HD. It has the notches on the top and bottom plate every 4-inch so you just snap the stud into it and no screws require. I’m going to build the wall 1 inch off the existing concrete wall (not waterproofed).
Questions:
1. Can I put the insulation between concrete floor and metal plate to eliminate the heat loss (forgot the name but it's the same what is used between basement walls and bottom plate of the house frame)? Any cons on doing it (like static electricity in the frame)?
2. Tracks are 10 Ft long. If my wall longer then that, do I just butt another track to it and install my studs every 16 in. as if it’s one continues track or do I have to put the stud on the end of one track and beginning of another?
3. I’m going to use Hilti gun to attach plates to the concrete floor – what are the regulations on nail size for metal stud, how often the nail goes and how close to the end of the track. – Can I put the scrap piece of 2x4 inside the track and shoot nail thru it?
4. Fireproofing – The Inspector mention that we go by BOCA codes and the only major thing his looking into is fireproof – he didn’t elaborate on exact measures – so what is the standards – I’m doing it for myself and don’t want to take any chances just to save a couple bucks. I read this web side http://www.bdacorp.com/firestopping/howto.htm but would prefer some plain instructions on what to use and how to do it, in particular – Fireproofing in perimeter walls (steel studs), behind the wall – dead airspace and between the floors. I’ll drywall everything (walls and ceiling).
Thanks for any help and info
I’m preparing to finish my basement and have been reading this side for the past month. Great info. I have my plans done and before starting the framing decided to run this by you.
I’ll be using metal studs 3 1/2 inch 25 GA – 16 inch. OC – found in HD. It has the notches on the top and bottom plate every 4-inch so you just snap the stud into it and no screws require. I’m going to build the wall 1 inch off the existing concrete wall (not waterproofed).
Questions:
1. Can I put the insulation between concrete floor and metal plate to eliminate the heat loss (forgot the name but it's the same what is used between basement walls and bottom plate of the house frame)? Any cons on doing it (like static electricity in the frame)?
2. Tracks are 10 Ft long. If my wall longer then that, do I just butt another track to it and install my studs every 16 in. as if it’s one continues track or do I have to put the stud on the end of one track and beginning of another?
3. I’m going to use Hilti gun to attach plates to the concrete floor – what are the regulations on nail size for metal stud, how often the nail goes and how close to the end of the track. – Can I put the scrap piece of 2x4 inside the track and shoot nail thru it?
4. Fireproofing – The Inspector mention that we go by BOCA codes and the only major thing his looking into is fireproof – he didn’t elaborate on exact measures – so what is the standards – I’m doing it for myself and don’t want to take any chances just to save a couple bucks. I read this web side http://www.bdacorp.com/firestopping/howto.htm but would prefer some plain instructions on what to use and how to do it, in particular – Fireproofing in perimeter walls (steel studs), behind the wall – dead airspace and between the floors. I’ll drywall everything (walls and ceiling).
Thanks for any help and info
#2
05-01-02, 04:12 AM
some answers..
Some answers to your questions:
1) Yes but why? Better to use pressure treated 2x4 under the bottom track. Even that is optional, but does allow you to nail the baseboards instead of using glue or trim screws.
2) Yes, just but the ends together. The bottom track is just a means of fastening the studs to the floor.
3) A nail every couple of feet (24") is sufficient. The nail doesn't have to be long. The purpose is to keep the bottom track from moving horizontally. No need for scrap 2x4s inside the track. I've not used the Hilti, but the Remington uses nails that have a plastic flang around the head. This keeps the nail head from going thru the track. If the head is going thru the track, use a lighter load.
4) The top track should suffice as a firestop. The issue here is that many DIYers just line up their studs with the floor joists and attach directly to the floor joists. Better to use a top track - it provides a firestop, joists may not be square (mine weren't) with the direction of the wall, and joists may not be on 16" centers.
Of coarse, the inspector has the final say.
1) Yes but why? Better to use pressure treated 2x4 under the bottom track. Even that is optional, but does allow you to nail the baseboards instead of using glue or trim screws.
2) Yes, just but the ends together. The bottom track is just a means of fastening the studs to the floor.
3) A nail every couple of feet (24") is sufficient. The nail doesn't have to be long. The purpose is to keep the bottom track from moving horizontally. No need for scrap 2x4s inside the track. I've not used the Hilti, but the Remington uses nails that have a plastic flang around the head. This keeps the nail head from going thru the track. If the head is going thru the track, use a lighter load.
4) The top track should suffice as a firestop. The issue here is that many DIYers just line up their studs with the floor joists and attach directly to the floor joists. Better to use a top track - it provides a firestop, joists may not be square (mine weren't) with the direction of the wall, and joists may not be on 16" centers.
Of coarse, the inspector has the final say.
