With your help, I am almost done framing a 1050 sq ft walk-out basement. There are 2 bedrooms (about 250 sq ft), a sitting area with fireplace, space for a ping-pong table and a new bathroom (I built it last summer). I used 2x4s 1" away from the cinderblock walls for framing. That way I can insulate and run electrical easily. I plan to hire an electrician to add breakers as needed, but will run 12-2 myself.

Now it's time to make some decisions about lighting and heating. Any suggestions for lights? It seems most people use cans. The ceiling will be sheetrocked. I tend to like bright rooms. There are two sliding glass doors (one in a bedroom, one in the sitting room). and an egress window in the other bedroom. What lighting is best over the ping-pong table?

What about m heating needs? We live in NC and have an electric heat pump for our main floor. When we had it installed, we were told it would be able to handle the additional square footage of the basement. Now we're getting a different story in the $4,000 price range. The basement is always very cool, so we really need heating, not cooling. Is a second heat pump our best choice?

 

I had a similar issue with my basement, it got way too cold in the winter to be usable. I had a number of suggestions from HVAC companies on how to solve the problem -- from replacing the 20-year old AC with a new heat pump and ducting (which is what I did, since I wanted to replace it anyway), to a second system for the basement only, to in-wall solutions.

I suspect that the most effective way is an in-wall solution, if you're willing to pay for it (most quotes for my 24x20 basement were about $2k, installed). All the HVAC salesmen claimed that the new inwall systems were very efficient, quiet, low-maintainence, and effective. From my own searches on the net regarding them they seem true -- the only reason you don't hear about them much is that they're not "sexy". There are both gas and electric units available, they have their own thermostats, and some even have remote controls! I wish I recalled the acronym they go by, but any good HVAC dealer in your area should know what I'm talking about.

Some things to consider -- do you want independant temperature control? This can be done with your current system (presuming there's enough capacity on the current HVAC system), ducts, and valves, or it can be done with a separate system or an in-wall unit.

What flooring are you going to use? If carpet, make sure to get the thickest pad recommended for the carpet type. It's more insulation between your feet and that cold concrete slab. If you're going for tile, wood, laminate, etc. consider putting in a radiant heating grid beneath the surface. From what I've read they're pretty easy to install for a DIYer, are pretty cheap, and they certainly negate the cold floor syndrome.

Make sure your windows have good seals on them and are caulked... if they're not double paned, seriously consider replacing them. The same goes for the sliding glass doors.

I hope that what I've done/am doing in my basement will be adequate... the new HVAC system works fine for the upstairs, but there's not nearly as much air flow in the basement (the ducting was attached lower in the main plenum, so less air pressure). I replaced the sliding glass door with exterior grade steel doors, replaced the window panes (all had failed seals), and will be putting down new carpet with a nice thick pad (current carpet is glued to the concrete).

 

Thanks for your input. I'm not worried about my doors since they're new. I plan to carpet the floor.

I'll have to look into in-wall units. I've never heard of them.
www.warmair.com has helpful heating/cooling info. It suggests zoning using a control panel and motorized dampers. A neighbor claims that lp gas logs heat her basement well. I guess I have some research to do. I'll keep you posted, thanks again.

 

Is there a heating vent in the basement already?

How big is the rest of the house?

What size (btu) is the heat pump?

I live in the mid-west where our winters average around 30, usually 3-4 weeks below zero. Houses here with 2200-2600 sf are built with plenty of capacity to finish a 1000 sf basement.
Most already have a vent in the basement.

Who is telling you that you need a new heat pump?

As for the lights - I put in a combination of fluorescent and can lights. The cans are all on dimmers. The fluorescent is a good quality 4-bulb fixture that is rarely turned on. Its is very bright!! At the foot of the stirs is a 2x2 u-bulb fluorescent fixture.
Since you are rocking the ceiling, i'd go for the cans. You can always add table/floor lamps just like any other room.

 

My existing heat pump is a 3 ton, 13 seer Carrier. Upstairs is 2000 sq ft and down is 1050. I've been told I should use a separate pump for the basement because it would be too cold in the summer and too hot in the winter if I don't. Instead of spending $4-$6000 for one, I'm thinking of adding flex lines with dampers. Neighbors with similar houses use one pump for both floors. They tend to open the dampers in winter and close them in summer. The basement returns help cool upstairs in the summer. My other option is a Direct Vent lp gas fireplace insert. www.regency-fire.com has some nice products and info for those interested. One of these in combo with a dehumidifier might be a better choice. Any advice?

 

I still don't know who said you needed a separate pump. I doubt it was an qualified HVAC person.

You certainly don't need a separate system. At worst you would need an additional vent or two for heat/cool and for the cold air return. You have the option of closing/opening the vents as needed.

Spend the money on insulating the walls instead.

My basement is the warmest room in the house in the winter. Its about 1000 sf and only has one vent. Its not a walkout, though. The walls are insulated.

 

I contacted two Heating and A/C companies for suggestions about heating and cooling the basement. Both stated that I need a separate heat pump. I did use 2x4s so that the room can be insulated properly. The two sliding glass doors and window are very energy efficient. An LP Gas company employee suggested installing a furnace in the fireplace. The furnace is preferrable to gas logs since it will be a completely closed system. This makes it safer for the children who will be sleeping down there. If I add flex line with dampers for A/C and the furnace, it will still cost about $4,000.