Schwinn Predator, rear hub disassembly

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  #1  
Old 12-05-10, 03:55 PM
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Schwinn Predator, rear hub disassembly

I picked up a chrome frame Schwinn Predator. The bearings in the front wheel were falling out of the retainers and one of the bottom bracket bearings was in pieces. There was minimal to no damage to the cups and races.

I found that I enjoy fixing up used bikes. I'm not trying to start a business but have sold 3 but, have given away 9 to those who can't afford to buy them for their children or themselves.

The Predator is the first coaster hub I have encountered. It has the name BULLETPROOF etched on the hub. After what I found in the front wheel and bottom bracket I would like to check the rear bearings. The bearings (top and bottom) in the head tub are OK.

Any assistance you can give or guide me to about disassembling the hub and any special tools required would be appreciated.

I posted a similar thread about a week ago but can't find it. I've looked every where in the forum. I guess I either did something wrong when I posted it or need to learn more about navigating.
If a response has already been posted my apologies for the duplication. I'm new to this forum thing.

Thank you frizpop3
 
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  #2  
Old 12-05-10, 06:22 PM
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Hi frizpop3, you only show one post, this one, so no idea what happened to the other. Anyway you are here so lets see if we can help. Bulletproof is new to me, Shimano and Bendix ruled when I worked in the shop. I did some searching, but couldn't find a parts diagram. Unfortunately, "Bullet Proof" is an adjective as well as a manufacturer, so all kinds of hits show up on the searches, but I found no mfg type site.

Have you found anything on the web showing a picture of it? Does it feel bad when spinning and does the brake work? Any other names on it, on the brake arm if there is one?

As for the other bearings you have replaced, once the bearings look as bad as you describe, chances are good that the races are in trouble. Your call as you have them in your hands. When you adjust them, watch for tight spots, that will tell you if the cups are no longer round.

If you still feel it is necessary to pull it apart, all brake assemblies I have worked on come apart opposite the chain side. Be ready to catch parts and note where they came from. Again, your call on your confidence level, but I've never worked on one.

Bud
 
  #3  
Old 12-07-10, 09:35 AM
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Thumbs up

Thanks Bud. The wheel does not turn smoothly. It kind of catches or bumps. I sometimes get the same feeling on other wheels when the cones are to tight. If I somehow find it I'll send you the info I get. It may help someone else in the future.

My earlier problem with posting was a log in issue (obviously resolved). The people at DIY responded promptly and adequately. I wish I was getting the same results from the Schwinn forum site. I, submitted messages to the administrator 3 times over the last three weeks and still have received nothing. It's great to work with sites like this one.

I just noticed that at present I cannot send attachments. Can you direct me to a place that I can change that?

frizpop3
 
  #4  
Old 12-08-10, 09:45 AM
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Yes, tight spots are not good. As a tip, when replacing loose bearings, not retainers, one less is better than too full. Ideally there should be a minimum half bearing gap.

Here is a short thread on attachments. I checked and my permission is turned on, but I didn't see where to turn it off and back on. Not sure if it just comes with the mod title.
http://forum.doityourself.com/genera...se-forums.html

Bud
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-10, 09:48 AM
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Bud...you are correct I believe. Mods can post attachments...members cannot. It's a spammer/advertising reduction issue.
 
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