My daughter has sold various parts off a mountain bike she got from a friend and I volunteered to disassemble it for her.

BIG MISTAKE! This thing is nothing like any bikes I've ever played with. I got halfway through and am stumped on how to get anything else apart.

I'll take it step by step, I'll guess. How do I remove this front wheel? I've removed the end caps and two bolts as shown in the photos. What ever happened to quick releases???

All help most appreciated.

 

I'd guess you need to drive the axle out somehow, prob with a correct sized socket and a mallet.....but wait for some of our bike guys to weigh in.

Brand and model may help? I'd imagine any bike shop could tell you how in 1 min on the phone.

 

I looks like it has to be driven out. I've never messed with a bike like that before so you better wait for an expert.

 

What is the make/model of the bike?
I cannot see enough in the photo to identify the type of bike to even begin suggest steps.

If I had to guess, I'd think a downhiller or dirt jumper (larger axles), but really, I can't tell from what is in the photo.

Edit:
What does the other side look like?
I noticed both pictures are of the brake side only.

 

Looking closer at the photo, that looks to be a 12mm skewer, which would be a downhiller or AM bike originally or at least the forks are. The tire definitely indicates its not a road bike (as did the OEM looking AVID rotor).
Now, the question is, what did this side have on it originally and what does the otherside look like?
Some 12mm skewers simply unlock and slight out (unlike regular skewers where the end cap is screwed off like a nut). They also range in sizes above 12mm, so a bit more info on make and model would be great. If there are any specific information on the hub itself, this would also help.

 

The bike, I believe is a downhill bike.

The frame is a Santa Cruz Bullit and the front fork reads Boxxer RockShox (which I will need to separate from the frame once I get the wheel off).

Both sides of the axel are identical.

I hope this helps.

 

Although I suspect the specs I'm looking at are for a newer shock model then what you are looking at, it's probably a 20mm axle.

I'm assuming the end caps where basically a bolt, which threaded into the axle (same on both sides). If this is correct, the axle in a perfect world should simply slide out the center.
More then likely, it's stuck, which means PBlaster or similar in the hub, soaking the axle.
After letting the solvant soak in, use a socket that fits into the hole and a rubber mallet. You should be able to tap the axle out. I'd avoid using the end cap as you can damage the threads.
Don't pound on it. If you can't get it to move, rotate and try the other side. If that doesn't work, add more PBlaster (or similar) and grab a beer and wait a bit.

 

Glad you've got some help on this, new attachment for me. One thought would be, if your daughter is selling these parts, the buyer will need a similar machine to use them. It would be a shame to dissemble and ship the parts only to have them returned.

Check for a brand name on the hub, usually in the center section. From my quick reading, methods vary. Here is one link for reading:
http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/ISOManual-11-07-A.pdf

Bud

 

Thanks Mike. Your suggestion worked great (even though I used rye instead of beer...

On to the fork removal!

 

Hey come on! I said a socket and mallet way back! Of course I had no clue if I was correct or not...lol.

Mike...what is a skewer in American? Other than something you put meat and veggies on to make a kabob?

 

is removing the fork.

The photos show there are seals (bearings?) between the frame and the fork.

The top of the tube has an OD of 1 1/8". The bottom is 1 1/4".

Ideas?

 

Sorry Vic, should have given you credit as you where right. Was a crazy day today at the office, so I just jumped to it after reading the OP.
As for removing the forks from the frame, there are two bits two it. Bare in mind, I don't have a downhiller, so the forks on my bikes are slightly different and you'll need to feel through this a bit.
First step would be to remove the 2 bolts in the center that at the headset in the red post supports. The next would be to loosen or remove the bolts at the ends of the red post support. Be carefull as if all is good, the forks should drop. The headset says it's sealed, but you still might have loose bearings rolling around. There should be a set of the bearings at the bottom of the frame and the top. Be very careful not to loose any.
This should be a threadless headset, so you shouldn't need to do anything to loosen the headset more then you have already.

If the red support bar is tough to remove, a couple shots of PBlaster, shot of rye and a few love taps with the rubber mallet should drop the forks out.

 

You DID say it, but neglected to mention any beverage.

 

When I was heavily active on the CSRT4 (car) forum, the guys use to joke during mod season that I would measure a job in the quantity of beer consumed. A Mopar Blow of Valve for example was 4 beer to install. 5 if you had big hands. Ironically, mod season (the time of year most of us would park our cars for the winter) was during my training season, so I wasn't event drinking at that time of year).

Anyway, back on subject...

Vic,
They are called skewers because the original ones kind of looked like a bbq skewer. The downhill mtn bike ones are way bigger and look different.
Here ia what you'll find on most lower end bikes for a quick release skewer.


Not that it is valid for the OP, but if he wasn't parting out the bike, I would have suggested going upgrading to something like this quick release (also add a bit of water replelling grease to it so it doesn't stick).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5885[/ATTACH]

 

Forks are off! Thanks so much for the help, guys.