Axle well in frame is rounded out
#1
04-18-20, 01:25 PM
Axle well in frame is rounded out
So I have put 4000 miles on my bike this year. No matter how tight the nuts are, the rear axle will spin a little when I brake or accelerate from it being stripped out. Any suggestions? Ive tried jamming small peices of metal in the space between the axle and frame and it only works for about 20 miles .
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Top Answer
04-19-20, 04:12 AM
Member
#2
04-18-20, 01:49 PM
Member
So 4K miles put you into a seriously elite class of rider, I get maybe 1500 per year but it's weather limited.
Most riders are pretty up on their bike/equipment and yet I have never seen/heard anybody state they fixed an issue with their bike by "jamming small piece of metal" into the axle/frame to fix anything, sorry something just does not sound right with this post!
Most riders are pretty up on their bike/equipment and yet I have never seen/heard anybody state they fixed an issue with their bike by "jamming small piece of metal" into the axle/frame to fix anything, sorry something just does not sound right with this post!
Norm201
voted this post useful.
#3
04-18-20, 01:59 PM
Member
Marq1
voted this post useful.
#4
04-18-20, 07:21 PM
Group Moderator
For future reference, I believe this is the "bike" he's referring to, from his other thread. Electric Scooter Manufacturer---FLJ CO.,LIMITED
#5
04-18-20, 09:42 PM
Wow, wasn't expecting to face ignorance while looking for help.I have 4000 miles in a year because I cant drive and my work is a 20 mile round trip I jam little peices of metal in the stripped spacing because it temporarily works and dont know what to do thus why i am here asking for help.
Why would I buy a new axle, it is fine, it is the aluminum frame that is messed up.
And no I am not referring to my scooter. That is a separate issue I am having. I am disabled from epilepsy and use both a bike and a scooter to get around.
Why would I buy a new axle, it is fine, it is the aluminum frame that is messed up.
And no I am not referring to my scooter. That is a separate issue I am having. I am disabled from epilepsy and use both a bike and a scooter to get around.
#6
04-18-20, 09:44 PM
Group Moderator
Ok. Good to know. If your threads are stripped, I would say that you need to use a tap on them, and put a different nut on.
#7
04-18-20, 09:46 PM
The threads are not stripped because there are no threads where the axle goes into the frame. It is a smooth slide in. The axle has torn up the frame. I guess I did not articulate that well in my first post
#8
04-18-20, 10:01 PM
Group Moderator
I see. I think I understand now. Perhaps you need to take it apart and build the frame back up with some jb weld then. Let it cure, then grind it back down as needed until the clearance is correct.
#12
04-19-20, 06:30 AM
Member
Whoa there friend. We did not realize that it was you (same person with the scooter battery problem and the handicap problem). Very often we only look at the question and not necessarily the person posting (our bad, but that's life). Also your post did not in any way indicate it was anything else but a typical bicycle. I think both Marq and I thought you were a bicycle enthusiasts and peddling cross country and the like.
In the future you might want to post full information about a problem or at least reference a prior post to allow us to check back on.
Now knowing who and what we're talking about both I and Marq were way off base. Sorry!
In the future you might want to post full information about a problem or at least reference a prior post to allow us to check back on.
Now knowing who and what we're talking about both I and Marq were way off base. Sorry!
Last edited by XSleeper; 04-19-20 at 10:01 AM.
#14
04-19-20, 10:08 AM
X... yeah that's what came to my mind when he first posted the issue. Then people started referring to a motorcycle, them some said it was a scooter. We just need to know what kind of "Bike" we're discussing.
Make, model & year would also be helpful. Its it IS a bicycle, knowing if its a single speed or a 15 speed etc may be helpful in future posts.
Make, model & year would also be helpful. Its it IS a bicycle, knowing if its a single speed or a 15 speed etc may be helpful in future posts.
#15
04-19-20, 10:20 AM
Member
Well I was about to say that. But apparently according to bicycle shops ..." in the local cycling community, and talking with shop owners, 3000-6000 miles is fairly typical annual mileage for a recreational cyclist. 100 miles a week may not sound like a whole lot but that works out to over 5000 miles in a year."
So maybe it is a typical bicycle.
#16
04-20-20, 01:41 AM
Im handicapped by epilepsy. Im quite fit and not physically limited by it besides having a seizure once about every 60 days. The bike is a radwagon, but I fixed it today.
#18
04-20-20, 05:36 AM
It has been many years since I worked on a bicycle. As I recall the tire rim hub contained the axle, bearings, bendix, sprocket, etc. The nuts on the axle clamped the tire rim assembly to the frame. Can't visualize the op's issue. Can you provide a pic of the problem.
#19
04-20-20, 06:01 AM
Group Moderator
He can correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, he is saying the slot for the axle (at the bottom of the forks) is getting sloppy. Since he is using metal shims and said no matter how he tightens things it still slips.
not the right fork, but...
image
Perhaps the knurling is worn off the back of the nuts... and new nuts (or washers) would help in addition to the jb weld you might use to build the frame back up.
not the right fork, but...
image
Perhaps the knurling is worn off the back of the nuts... and new nuts (or washers) would help in addition to the jb weld you might use to build the frame back up.
#21
04-21-20, 01:59 PM
I assume the axle has flats on the threaded ends. What you need are special washers with a D shaped ID to fit the axle and a tab on the OD to fit into the axle slot on the frame. You p;ace them on the axle before the axle nut. If you can't buy them it is possible to make them from fender washers. You will have to file the D shape in the ID and make parallel cuts centered on the D to make the tab by bending material between the cuts 90 degrees.
