Boiler pressure & venting issues

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Old 04-12-04, 12:24 PM
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Help!! Boiler pressure & venting issues

Hi All,
Just drained down my American Standard Hot water boiler (heating only) to replace a defective B&G pump. I replaced it with a Taco pump. After I refilled the system, I bled air from the 2nd story baseboard radiatiors, and filled the expansion tank using the B&G vent-trol fitting. I opened the valve until water came out, then closed it, just as the instructions said. Here's the questions:
1- I have heat on the 2nd story baseboards, but little on the 1st floor. The baseboards have no vents on the first floor. I have looked very hard, and can't find any. How do I bleed these baseboards?
2- After filling the system, I had 15 pounds on the system, same as before. After starting the pump and burner, the pressure eventually built to 27 pounds, at which I shut 'er down to avoid trouble. Will this pressure decrease on it's own, or is there something I can do to bring it down? The make-up water pressure control seems to be right on at 15 pounds.
My wife is about to kill me if I don't get the heat back on soon.
Please help
 

Last edited by Andrew; 04-12-04 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 04-12-04, 05:13 PM
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If you only have one thermostat for the whole system, there must be a valve somewhere to balance the flow between the firsty and second floors. If you moved the valve you may have opened it all the way and it needs to be partially closed to balance flow. I'm just throwing ideas out here because we need more info get an exact cause. If there are no bleeders on the first floor baseboards then there must be a purge valve somewhere. It would be a shutoff valve with a drain valve on the system side of it. That would let you push water (and air) through the loop and out to a drain.

As far as the pressure goes, it should not increase that much on heat-up. Maybe the automatic water feed is leaking through. It is OK to run the system with that valve isolated until you get the bugs worked out.

Ken
 
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Old 04-12-04, 08:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Ken.
My system has no balancing valve, but I did find the purge valve, built into the drain fitting on the boiler. I will try that tomorrow. Also, I turned the makeup water line off. Will check that tomorrow to see if the pressure has gone down.
Thanks for the help, and I'll post back with the results asap.
 
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Old 04-13-04, 08:26 AM
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Think Id let some water out now to the 15 psi with the auto water fill off and the boiler hot .like Ken said till the bugs are out.

ED
 
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Old 04-14-04, 03:44 PM
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OK--I turned off the make-up water valve, and I've let some water out, maybe 1 gallon, and that has brought the steady pressure back down to 15 pounds. The baseboard radiators on the first floor seem to have bled themselves, as now all have heat.

One question I forgot to ask--I replaced my defective B&G Series 100 three-piece pump with a Taco series 007 cartridge pump, because it cost less than buying the B&G repair parts. The guy at the plumbing store said this is the pump "everyone is using" nowdays. Does this seem like an adequate cross? The old pump was 1/12 HP, wheras the new one is only 1/25 HP. I looked up the specs on both pumps, and the B&G pump moves a LOT more GPM than the Taco.
Any comments on this would be appreciated!!!
Thanks
 
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Old 04-15-04, 06:05 AM
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The Taco 007 is standard on almost all residential boilers that I have used in the last 5+ years. It has never caused a flow related problem and is a less expensive trouble-free unit. I would not expect you to notice any difference between the two pumps in water delivery.

Ken
 
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Old 04-15-04, 04:29 PM
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OK!
Case closed, no worries.
Thanks for the info, Ken.
 
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