Aquastat adjustment
#1
06-08-04, 11:22 AM
Aquastat adjustment
I recently disconnected my aquastat ( Honeywell L4080 B) to Super store indirect water heater and when I reconnected it won't work. I thought I had a bad aquastat but you can jump it out and it works fine. Did I mess up the adjustment on the aquastat? Any help would be appreciated. I can't get the darn unit to close and the directions from Honeywell are useless.
Last edited by banjobj; 06-08-04 at 11:23 AM. Reason: spelling error
#2
06-11-04, 07:12 PM
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If there are only 2 terminals on it there isn't much you could have done wrong. The temperature setting is self-explanatory so that should not be a factor either. The control could be defective. You don't say why you disconnected it, or whether it is running line voltage or low voltage but there is no reason disconnecting and reconnecting it should cause a problem. If the sensing bulb is in the well and the water is cold, and jumping the control calls for reheat, the control must be defective.
Ken
Ken
#4
12-24-07, 10:00 PM
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Bump from the past, and Merry Christmas all!!!
I have a question along these lines....
Sometimes my indirect (Crown MegaStor) will "run out" of hot water, when little hot water has been used. I go down to the basement, and find the aquastat requesting heat, and the boiler obliging. But it will be a little while (~30 min) before the zone is satisfied.
In order to debug whether it's the bulb or aquastat that is faulty (aquastat was replaced ~2 years ago) I'd like to replace the aquastat with a model that tells me what the bulb water temperature is. So, if I see that the bulb is 100f and the 'stat is not requesting heat, I know it's the 'stat. If the zone says 130f and everything out of the tap is cold, I know it's the bulb.
Anybody hear of such a thing? Thanks.
I have a question along these lines....
Sometimes my indirect (Crown MegaStor) will "run out" of hot water, when little hot water has been used. I go down to the basement, and find the aquastat requesting heat, and the boiler obliging. But it will be a little while (~30 min) before the zone is satisfied.
In order to debug whether it's the bulb or aquastat that is faulty (aquastat was replaced ~2 years ago) I'd like to replace the aquastat with a model that tells me what the bulb water temperature is. So, if I see that the bulb is 100f and the 'stat is not requesting heat, I know it's the 'stat. If the zone says 130f and everything out of the tap is cold, I know it's the bulb.
Anybody hear of such a thing? Thanks.
#5
12-25-07, 06:58 AM
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Aquastat
Having a MegaStor myself, I doubt the aquastat is the problem but more likely a dirty heat exchanger coil. To clean, drain the indirect, remove the domed cap on top, & use a garden hose to wash the exteriror of the coil.
Is the indirect on a priority zone & if so, is the priority function working? Another problem could be the circulator. The "whine" could indicate a problem with the circulator. Does the burner cycle off for a long period during the call for hot water?
I don't know if anyone makes a digital single function aquastat or not.
Is the indirect on a priority zone & if so, is the priority function working? Another problem could be the circulator. The "whine" could indicate a problem with the circulator. Does the burner cycle off for a long period during the call for hot water?
I don't know if anyone makes a digital single function aquastat or not.
#8
12-26-07, 07:30 PM
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Thanks for the replies.
Yes, it's a priority zone. I imagine it could be the circulator intermittently failing...but it seems to be be running OK when I go down (but that could just be the system circulator pushing the water through). I watch the return temp drop on my OR (It's a Tekmar 260). Probably 3-5 minutes between boiler recycles). I will keep poking my head downstairs to see if priority is working...but I don't think that would be it...first time it happened, it was a couple months ago, prior to heavy heating season.
And yes, it's a new problem. First happened a couple months ago, now again. Megastor is ~4 years old, with one new aquastat last year (thing just wouldn't call for heat at all).
Now I was just thinking....could be a sticky zone valve which eventually rights itself. Yeah, I know- horrible idea to have a zone valve on an indirect- it's just temporary. I drew up the boiler piping and controls myself (using Dan Holohan's books as my major reference) and had a steamfitter come in and do the piping. Come heating season, I notice superheated hot water. Turns out he had piped the DHW supplya after the system circulator, instead of before, in a attempt to separate/prioritize the DHW zone, with the return way down close to the boiler, on the other side of the p/s loop. {In fairness, it was his introduction to p/s and pumping away...I didn't catch it, either, on the mods he made to my original drawings} So come heating season, whenever a heating zone called for heat, the system circulator sent boiler water through the megastor, whether it wanted it or not. Our simple ("temporary") solution was to add a zone valve into the DHW loop, so it only allowed flow when that zone wanted it. Will definitely put repiping of that zone on the hot list once heating season is over.
EDIT: The Tekmar looks promising, but as you said, a little pricey @ $150. I wonder if there's some kind of sensor display I could run parallel with the honeywell aquastat to display the measured temp....
Yes, it's a priority zone. I imagine it could be the circulator intermittently failing...but it seems to be be running OK when I go down (but that could just be the system circulator pushing the water through). I watch the return temp drop on my OR (It's a Tekmar 260). Probably 3-5 minutes between boiler recycles). I will keep poking my head downstairs to see if priority is working...but I don't think that would be it...first time it happened, it was a couple months ago, prior to heavy heating season.
And yes, it's a new problem. First happened a couple months ago, now again. Megastor is ~4 years old, with one new aquastat last year (thing just wouldn't call for heat at all).
Now I was just thinking....could be a sticky zone valve which eventually rights itself. Yeah, I know- horrible idea to have a zone valve on an indirect- it's just temporary. I drew up the boiler piping and controls myself (using Dan Holohan's books as my major reference) and had a steamfitter come in and do the piping. Come heating season, I notice superheated hot water. Turns out he had piped the DHW supplya after the system circulator, instead of before, in a attempt to separate/prioritize the DHW zone, with the return way down close to the boiler, on the other side of the p/s loop. {In fairness, it was his introduction to p/s and pumping away...I didn't catch it, either, on the mods he made to my original drawings} So come heating season, whenever a heating zone called for heat, the system circulator sent boiler water through the megastor, whether it wanted it or not. Our simple ("temporary") solution was to add a zone valve into the DHW loop, so it only allowed flow when that zone wanted it. Will definitely put repiping of that zone on the hot list once heating season is over.
EDIT: The Tekmar looks promising, but as you said, a little pricey @ $150. I wonder if there's some kind of sensor display I could run parallel with the honeywell aquastat to display the measured temp....
#9
12-27-07, 07:44 AM
Originally Posted by buckyswider
Thanks for the replies.
EDIT: The Tekmar looks promising, but as you said, a little pricey @ $150. I wonder if there's some kind of sensor display I could run parallel with the honeywell aquastat to display the measured temp....
EDIT: The Tekmar looks promising, but as you said, a little pricey @ $150. I wonder if there's some kind of sensor display I could run parallel with the honeywell aquastat to display the measured temp....
http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp/P_ID/149655
#10
12-22-08, 04:47 PM
I'm having a problem and was told mt aquastat was out of adjustment or defective. When I set me thermostat to 60 the furnace runs every 10 minutes and the heat in the room reaches 75 to 80 degrees. How are these tested and what adjustments are made? I was told you could damage the furnace if not done right. Man it's hot in here now.........
#12
12-22-08, 06:31 PM
The woman thought it controller the water heat and set both dials to 180. What should the high anf low be set at? Thermostat was replaced and had the same problem as she did her adjustment before I changed the stat.
#13
12-22-08, 06:52 PM
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Dials
There should be at least a 20º difference between the Hi & Lo settings. Often they are set 160 Lo & 180 Hi.
Some pictures of the boiler & controls would help.
Some pictures of the boiler & controls would help.
#15
12-23-08, 02:57 PM
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Picture(s)
Sorry I couldn't see any picture. The easiest way for us to view pictures is for you to post them on photobucket.com or similar photo hosting site then provide a link here.
