4 questions, shut offs and pressure

Old 06-12-04, 12:45 PM
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4 questions, shut offs and pressure

first question:
I need to raise a water heater off the ground because it's in a garage, is 18" the correct height?
second question:
currently I have a shutoff valve for both hot and cold, directly before flexy copper lines that go into the top of the heater. Do I have to move the shut offs when I raise the heater so they are still right there attached to the flex lines or can I have them stay where they are and just use solid copper to reach the new position of the heater?
Third question:
Do I need to install unions?
Fourth question:
Different house, Low pressure at sprayer in kitchen while volume and pressure seem to be fine elsewhere. Are higher priced fixtures likley to have better performance, or could it be that larger supply lines from the shutoffs will make a big difference, I think currently they are 3/8".
thanks for any help.
Old 06-12-04, 01:12 PM
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As far as height of your water heater you will have to check with your local inspectors.
Here an appliance with an open flame must be 5' off the floor of a parking garage.
You an attach copper to the valves extend the lines and then attach the flex connector to the copper.
You need a dialectric union between the galvanized fitting on the tank and the copper line.
Your flex line could be dielectric though.
The first thing I would check with the sprayer is to see if it's maybe scaled up.
Soak it in a glass of descaler and then take it apart and clean it.
Old 06-13-04, 07:11 PM
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GregH took care of most everything. The only thing I have to add is that the diverter in the faucet may be bad and causing the pressure problem with the sprayer. If the water from the spout doesn't stop almost completely when you use the sprayer, get a diagram of the faucet and see where the diverter is and replace it.

Old 08-16-04, 12:53 PM
Homer Simpson
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Good advice so far, But...

Good advice so far.

We are talking about a gas water/h. 18" is the rule, but check with the local
building dept. Don't give them your name or address as this is a health and
safety matter and you would probably need a permit. You don't need a
valve on the hot water outlet. You can make the new connections to the
old coming out of the wall even it it is lower. A electric w/h doesn't need
to be raised. If you don't have the manual for the faucet go to the manufacturers web site and download the manual and follow KField's advice.
Don't forget earthquake strapping especially if you mount the w/h on a pedestal. Seismic strapping is a requirement in many jurisdictions. They can
be purchased at Home Depot, Lowe's etc.

Say goobye, Homer. Goodbye
Old 08-17-04, 09:03 PM
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Do I need to install unions?

Unions are a good idea since water heaters do not last forever and it's a pain to have to cut pipes to install a new one. Also, unions allow you to solder most of your connections on the bench instead of in place, which makes for less leaks if you are not a professional plumber. An alternative to a union could be a ball valve with compression fittings. These are a snap to install.
Builders do not use unions or valves because they cost a couple of bucks more than sweat fittings. Builders don't give a rat's butt about disassembly!! The first thing I did before removing my 1967 gas boiler was to select locations in supply and heat pipes for valves which would allow enough space for most any new boiler, cut the pipes and install ball valves with compression fittings.

If you examine the gas and water piping on your water heater and/or boiler,
you will notice that the gas lines are black iron and include unions. This is not "builders choice", it is the law for gas and does not apply to water pipes.

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