Air in lines


  #1  
Old 10-16-04, 09:18 PM
BU88A
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Question Air in lines

Hey guys... new to the board and have a question.

I recently had to drain my system to do a little modification to the lines in my baseboard-type hot water furnace system. Now that things have gotten a wee bit chilly, I've found that there are a couple of heaters that aren't getting hot. I assume there's air in the lines. Now... I HAVE seen the numerous posts regarding this same problem, but I have a couple questions and comments that weren't covered in the earlier posts.

#1... after checking the previous posts, I looked at the lines upstairs (2nd floor) and there are NO valves that I can try purging the air from there.

#2... There are TWO "drain" valves at my furnace in my basement... the first is above the pump, right above the shutoff valve for what I assume to be the supply line... the second is near the floor. Which one would I attach the hose to conduct the air purge?

#3... I'd noticed in a previous post that after the system fills up again to close the inlet valve from the city water... If I remember correctly, the valve was OPEN at the time that I first drained the system (I had to close it to drain the lines). Should it be open or closed during "normal" operation?

Oh, and I'm running about 16psi.

In advance, I thank you for any assistance.
 

Last edited by BU88A; 10-16-04 at 09:28 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-17-04, 04:54 AM
KField's Avatar
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If some of the heaters are getting warm then you have circulation. Purging will not help. Purging gets the majority of the air out of a system so circulation can begin. Once the circulator can move water, the rest of the air has to be absorbed and vented at the boiler. The only way you could have some circulation and some cold radiators is if all the radiators are not on the same loop. It the loop is split anywhere, you cannot purge unless you can find a way to direct the flow to each one individually. If it is split there should be air vents on them because it is obvious you wouldn't be able to purge. If there are no vents, I can't tell you what to do.

After you fill the system, let the supply valve to the automatic feed open and if it works right, the system pressure will stay constant.

Ken
 
  #3  
Old 10-17-04, 06:34 AM
BU88A
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Hrm..

Thanks for your quick response KField.

I don't suppose there's some handy-dandy universal tool out there that can... "make" a vent (besides a drill, of course ) in copper piping, that can create a hole, then seal the hole back up again post-purge...?
 
  #4  
Old 10-17-04, 11:08 AM
BU88A
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Ah HAH!

I've got it taken care of. I was over at Home De-Pot and came across...

A self-piercing saddle-valve in an icemaker installation kit.

So... for $8 or so, I had the valve, and some semi-transparent tubing to run out the window. I used the valve on the top-most copper tube and attached the hose to the valve, and as soon as the air... and there was a LOT of it... stopped coming out of the hose, I closed the valve... waited a few minutes and purged again.

Since the first one worked, I went out and picked up more valves, one for each upstairs baseboard heater, and proceeded to bleed the rest of the lines. So... for about $23, I now have a bleeder valve on each baseboard. And yes, I'm listening for any leaks and so far have none... AND I have heat!
 
  #5  
Old 10-17-04, 11:29 AM
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Wink

It worked alright for you. BUT keep an eye on them the hot pipe will get to the rubber seal there under the saddle valve and start to leak on you.. You said you worked on it so do it again and put a bleeder in like they should be.

ED
 

Last edited by Ed Imeduc; 10-17-04 at 11:59 AM.
 

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