Circulator pump runs 5 secs, shuts off

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Old 02-12-05, 09:03 PM
BobRob
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Circulator pump runs 5 secs, shuts off

This is my first time here. I've sen a lot of good advice, soI though I'd give it a try.

I've got a 2-zone Hydrotherm gas-fired boiler with a B&G Series 100 circulator. WIth the thermostats calling for heat, the boiler maintains the set temp of 190deg, but the circulator comes on for 3-5 secs, then shuts off for a couple of minutes, comes back on again, etc. The only heat I'm getting in the house now is from passive circulation. But it's getting colder!!

I checked all the valves and switches in the electrical control box, but still have the problem. When I bypassed the control box and connected the circulator directly to 120V, still have it. Does this mean the circulator is bad? Could anything else with water, air, or pressure cause this? If I have to replace the circulator, what do you recommend?

Looking forward to your advice.
 
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Old 02-13-05, 06:37 AM
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I think you have a bad motor. Touch it and see. It will be too hot to touch if it is bad. The cost of that motor is more than a complete Taco 007 circulator but it is easier to replace that motor than the whole pump. What it is doing is going off on high temp overload because of some internal electrical problem. It is common with those motors. You could turn off the power and move the coupling with a screwdriver to make sure the pump shaft isn't so tight that it is overloading the motor. Usually when those pumps get tight they squeal so I doubt that is happening to you but it is worth a check before buying a motor.

Ken
 
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Old 02-13-05, 02:17 PM
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Like Ken said, try to turn the coupling with a screwdriver. If it turns easily, the bearing assembly is probably ok. You can try adding about 1 teaspoon of oil to the bearing assembly by popping off the square cover nearest the pipes. When you look in there you should see wicking material wrapped around a shaft. If you see a lot of rust, the assembly is likely shot.
 
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Old 02-13-05, 07:09 PM
BobRob
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Progress.....

Thanks Ken and Grady,

This a.m., before I checked this site, I pulled the motor off and tried running it without the resistance of the impeller. Same probelm! So I fiddled with it, turned the shaft a few turns in each direction and cleaned some oil and heavy dust off the outside. The only thing that seemed unusual is that I noticed the armature shaft could be pushed in and out about 1/4 inch. So then I flipped the switch and ....It worked! After putting it back together, it's running fine now. What do you think? Is it "temporarily" better? And thank you for your advice.
Art
 
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Old 02-13-05, 08:05 PM
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I believe you misunderstood both of us. What we said was to turn the pump shaft to see if it was tight. If it was not (which I am assuming it was not), you need to replace the motor. I'm glad you got through Sunday with it. Get a motor or a whole pump before next weekend because next time the motor goes on the blink, it may not start again.

Ken
 
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Old 02-15-05, 09:27 PM
BobRob
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Hi Grady,

Thanks for your answer. I did check the pump shaft when I pulled off the motor, and I could turn it by hand fairly easily, though there was some resistance. Since the motor had the same problem even when I disconnected it from the pump, I assumed the pump was OK.

Anyway, it's happened again tonight (why always at night?!), so my fix was obviously temporary. Do you recommend the Taco 007? Can it pretty much be popped in between the flanges as they are set for the B&G?

On another note, is there an easy way to tell if the expansion tank is OK?

Thanks again.
Art
 
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Old 02-16-05, 06:19 AM
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The 007 will fit right in where the Model 100 comes out. If your system pressure stays fairly steady when the system is hot or cold, your expansion tank is working OK.If the relief valve drips when the boiler is hot but not when it is cold, there may be a problem. If you decide to change the motor and not the whole pump, be sure to change the coupling at the same time.

Ken
 
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Old 02-16-05, 06:20 AM
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YEs... the Taco 007 is the same height as the B&G100 so you dont have to mess with the flanges...... BUT the Taco 007 is a little wider on one side than the B&G 100 so make sure you have some room for it.

Otherwise, the Taco is a great little pump, costs less, no more oiling, quiter and used less electricity.

I replaced 2 B&G100 pumps with Tacos in the past year. I hear they also are pretty durable. Some people say they last longer than the B&G100, some say otherwise. We shall see...
 
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Old 02-16-05, 05:00 PM
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B & G 100 vs. Taco 007

The 007 is a fine circulator & I use them all of the time. In this case, where the motor seems to be the only problem, I personally would just replace the motor. Replacing the motor may be a little more costly but in replacing the entire circulator you have to open the system which I would rather not do if I can avoid it. Many places sell rebuilt motors. I have used rebuilt motors from the same place for 17+ years & never had a bad one. More motors are killed by over oiling than lack of oil.
 
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Old 02-20-05, 12:44 PM
BobRob
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Problem solved

I wanted to let you all know how it turned out. I pulled off the B&G motor again and decided to open it up. I found that the reason it wasn't working was that the contact points on a switch that energizes a second coil winding had gone bad. The switch is operated by a centrifugal mechanism on the rotor which (I guess) is meant to deactivate this coil once the motor gets turning. The contact points were badly distorted and it looks as though they didn't separate to open the circuit. This was probably caused by grease build up, due to (you guessed it!) excessive oil. Not knowing where to get a repair part, I just cleaned it up, bent the contacts to a position where they would make better contact, and put it back together. Lo and behold, it worked! Not too hard, and saved myself the price of a new motor. That said, does anyone know where I might get a replacement switch? Thanks for all your advice.

BTW, I was told that an expansion tank is defective if it doesn't make a nice bell-like "ding" when you hit it with something. Any truth in this?

Art

Art
 
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Old 02-20-05, 01:41 PM
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BobRob

For a new switch, you might try an electric motor service shop. The expansion tank sound is really tough. It can be hard for a seasoned veteran, let alone the homeowner.
 
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Old 02-20-05, 07:03 PM
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I hear the same thing about oil tanks and I have been knocking on them for over 25 years and would not bet on ever being close to knowing how much is in there. It is a little better at full or empty than every thing in between but don't waste your time. If you have symptoms of a saturated expansion tank, drain it and let it refill.

Ken
 
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Old 02-21-05, 12:50 PM
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Ever see what happens when a B&G Motor catches fire? The smell last a long time, Get a new one
 
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Old 03-05-05, 04:19 PM
BobRob
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Thanks!

Hi,
I want to thank everyone for their help with my questions. This is a valuable resource. And I agree that it's probably not wise to keep the motor going as is, although it does continue to operate. I'll look for a rebuilt motor. Does anyone have recommendations for a mail order place?
Thanks again ,
Art
 
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Old 03-07-05, 01:00 PM
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Call a few plumbers or oil companys in your area Someone will have a used one sitting around you can buy for 20 bucks if you pick it up. A new one will cost big bucks I priced a new B&G Motor the other day and it was 150.00 I could buy the whole circ cheaper
 
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