hot water baseboard crack


  #1  
Old 02-22-05, 06:09 AM
lopez98
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hot water baseboard crack

I spent most of last Saturday draining my hot water system to install a new 20 ft. (2-6ft. and 2-4ft. pieces pushed together) run of baseboard in my living room. Originally there were no leaks on Saturday and we painted the baseboard. Sunday I was not home and Monday night after work I noticed a small puddle under the baseboard. There is a 1 inch hairline crack right on top of the baseboard. I was advised by one person to try a plumbing apoxy that claims it dries to a like metal form and that might work. I called the plumbing supply house and they asked me to take apart the system and bring back that 4 ft. section that is cracked and they will replace it.

Now, I rented a tool that we used to crush the sections of baseboard together, now how do I get them apart to return them, or is this apoxy a valid choice?
 
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Old 02-22-05, 06:34 AM
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I would definitely replace the section. I know you probably don't want to hear that but if you are talking about cast iron baseboard, that crack will haunt you forever if it isn't replaced. The temperature extremes and expansion/contraction would make stress at the epoxy joint and if it only holds long enough for the plumbing supplier to say the warranty is up, you will be tearing it out and replacing it later completely at your own expense. Sorry you got a defective item right off the bat but is does happen sometimes. If you lay the baseboard down on its front and take out the bolt, you can wedge it apart from between the sections. My cast iron baseboard tool has a wedge shape on the end of one handle to get them apart. BE SURE to replace all the push nipples. DO NOT reuse any of them. Nothing is worse than a leak on reassembly. I use Permatex/Loctite red sealer on the push nipples.You also may need a slide hammer if the nipples don't come out of the sections you need to reuse. Hopefully it will go easy for you.

Ken
 
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Old 02-22-05, 07:52 AM
lopez98
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tool

I appreciate your reply and i will be replacing it. Unfortunately the tool rented does not have the wedge shaped end to pry them apart. Obviously you can't just use a hammer and a wonder bar, any other tricks of how to get them apart or any other tools that may help? thanks.
 
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Old 02-22-05, 08:33 AM
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It should be much easier to get them apart than it was to get them together. The soft push nipples have to be squeezed pretty hard to fit the openings and be free of leakage. I would anything that has a steep enough wedge to it. Possibly a cold chisel that is big enough to just fit in there. I would not do too much banging on it. Just get it in there tight and lift the end of the section connected to one you are working on about 1" off the floor to use it for leverage. Then put it back flat and reseat the wedge and do it again if necessary. Go slow and you will not have a problem. (I think)

Ken
 
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Old 02-22-05, 04:32 PM
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lopez98

Ken's right about not resusing ANY of the push nipples where you separate sections. As for tools, I've used wedges made of hard wood (oak,maple, etc.) if you happen to have some laying around. Once it starts to come apart, you have it made. As for sealant, I prefer #2 permatex or permatex pipe dope, applied sparingly, but evenly, around the push nipples. Good Luck
 
 

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