3-zone, 4-zone, 3-section, etc.


Old 08-05-05, 08:29 AM
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3-zone, 4-zone, 3-section, etc.

I'm confused. I'm building a new house and my father has always told me to get a 4-section boiler. The builder had a 3-zone boiler specified, but the plumber suggested I upgrade to a 4-zone to make sure I get enough hot water to fill a corner whirlpool tub.

So far, the only thing I know is that the hot water system is a tankless hot water on a 3-zone Peerless brand boiler. The upgrade to the 4-zone would be $400. If I need it, is that a fair price?

Is "section" and "Zone" the same thing or different?

I know about heating zones (1st floor heating zone 1, 2nd floor heating zone 2) but I'm not sure if the boiler zones are the same?

Any help would be great. I've been searching a lot of internet sites and I'm glad I found this one. Thanks.

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Old 08-06-05, 09:18 AM
Grady's Avatar
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Location: Delaware, The First State
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First of all forget the tankless. They are chronic energy wasters & bad about performance falling off due to plugging. Peerless makes a good boiler & I have no problem with them for replacement applications but for new construction I much prefer either a Crown CT series which you can view & read about at http://www.crownboiler.com
While there, look at there Mega-Stor indirect water heater.
Another excellent boiler & indirect is made by Buderus. Their site is: http://www.buderus.net
Either of these systems will cost a good bit more than the Peerless or similar type boiler but should last 40+ years & save you money on energy costs along the way. Having a domestic (tankless) coil, is oil the fuel?

Zones & boiler sections not the same thing. Zones are the number of heating loops in the house & sections pertains to the size of the boiler. For example; in my small house (1200 sq.ft living area) I have 5 zones on a 3 section boiler. My son has 3 zones on a 5 section boiler.
Old 08-07-05, 06:06 AM
KField's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Easton, PA
Posts: 3,245
Buying a boiler with a domestic coil is old technology and it an expensive one to feed. It compares to having a 20 foot box truck and driving it to work every day just in case you ever decided to move. You would be better off to have a trailer you could pull with your car one that one day when you move. Get a boiler that is properly sized for the load and put in an indirect water heater. That way the cost to heat the house is as economical as possible and the water is heated inexpensively and held hot for when you need it. Zoning also conserves energy because it puts the heat into the rooms you want when you want it and allows you to keep some areas cooler than others. Grady had some good info too and I prefer the Energy Kinetics System 2000 which can be seen at www.energykinetics.com. There is a shoe for every foot. Don't let your builder give you whatever is easy for him. You will be living in and paying for fuel in this new house.


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