another venting ?


  #1  
Old 10-11-05, 02:46 PM
J
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another venting ?

I have a little problem with his hot water base board heat. Air is in the line. I think a lot. Not just a few bubbles. Here is the situation 2 zones with the zone valves on the return line after the valve to drain water out of the 2 zones. The top floor is all 1 level and there is a vent elbow[the one you use the key or the little screwdriver] in the baseboard in the bathroom.

Downstairs is the problem. There are 2 levels. 1 is 10 " lower than the other. The vent tee for this zone is on the lower level in the bathroom. On top of that I had to remove a section of baseboard in the kitchen and put in a larger one[diameter and height I think] on one of the walls to make up the heat lost by the piece I took out.The pipes in the crawl space and not level at all. The problem is getting all the air out.

I think the top level is ok I will use the vent there, I quess, unless there is an easier way.Can I get some ideas. I have a couple one of which is to cut the tubing in the basement put a short riser in with a valve that I can connect a hose to and bring the other end of the hose up stairs and into the sink or higher than the highest point maybe even a second floor sink, considering the level of the copper in the crawl space, and let it fill with the vent elbow open and venting

Another one was to open both zone valves and hook a hose up to the drain and run that up to the second floor gutter and let it run for a while,with both vent elbows open and venting. I thought of restricting the opening of the hose, so that it would force more water in than out and maybe push the air to the vents.

I have tried to close the zone valves and fill the system and didn't like the results[may be ok for the top level].The multi level, pitch of the pipes,and location of the bottom vent are problems I think. Any ideas. I really want all the air out if possible.
 
  #2  
Old 10-11-05, 06:02 PM
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Air in system

Hopefully you have a purge station at the boiler. Look for a tee with a hose bib on it & a shut off valve between the boiler & the hose bib. If you find such a configuration, close the shut off valve, connect a hose to the bib, open the zone vavle, & purge until you no longer get air.
 
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Old 10-11-05, 08:01 PM
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No such luck. I think I will have to put a bleeder elbow on the new larger baseboard in the kitchen[high spot]. If I do that it is better to put it on the end away from where it comes up from the basement right. This is the first stop from the boiler. I only ask because it is a little bit of a hassle to solder there.

Just so I don't waste my time.

1]it is not going to work if I put a hose on the return line hose bib and run it way up above the baseboards on the first floor.

2[ I can't use the bleeder on the top florr to get the air out of both floors
 
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Old 10-11-05, 08:15 PM
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Purging air

(1) This will work as a purge station IF there is a shut-off valve in the return between the boiler & the hose bib.

(2) IF you can get the air to move to the second floor, yes this will work. Chances are, it won't move.

Can you host (on Yahoo or elsewhere) some pics of the boiler & near boiler piping & provide a link to those pics?
 
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Old 10-11-05, 08:34 PM
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Need batteries for the camera. There is really no way to isolate anything on this boiler. There are the 2 valves that just drain water on the return line above the zone valves and the drain at the bottom of the boiler. Pictures tomorrow via photobucket. It's not too chilly yet here in the big apple so I have time.
 
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Old 10-12-05, 12:20 PM
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Here are some of the pics. The vent between the extrol tank and the pressure relief valve may or may not be working. Does it work on the whole system or just the water added to the system and how do I know it is working. I am a little hesitant to unscrew it even a little,but i will if you say to.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...rphotos008.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...rphotos009.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...rphotos010.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...rphotos005.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...rphotos004.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...q/0eb4e4da.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...q/5b94cde1.jpg
 
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Old 10-12-05, 04:33 PM
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Ok, pics were a help, so here goes

In picture 5b94cde1 (last pic) there is a valve with a blue knob. Shut it off & drop the pressure in the boiler to or near zero. Replace the auto vent. Turn the blue handled valve back on. The pressure should go to about 12#. Keep the zone valves closed. Connect a hose to one of the valves above the zone valve. Open the valve & allow water to flow until you no longer get air. Repeat for other zone. If water will not flow, lift the handle on the reducing valve (bottom left corner of next to last pic). If you have to lift this handle, be careful to watch the pressure in the boiler & don't exceed 25#. Now you can turn on the boiler & turn up one thermostat. Once you have heat coming back from that zone, turn the thermostat down & the other one up. You should soon get heat thru that zone.
 
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Old 10-12-05, 05:56 PM
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Will do grady. Do you think the auto vent is bad or just replace it in case. No water will come out of that auto vent right. Will it help if I bring the hose up stairs [higher] above the baseboards or doesn't it matter. Before I do anything tell me you are not Grady from Sanford and Son. I must insist on this.
 
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Old 10-12-05, 06:59 PM
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Talking Wrong Grady

I've been asked that several times, LOL.
From the looks of it, I would be surprised if it were not bad. No, or very little water will come out after you drop the pressure to zero. Just have the new one in hand & ready to screw in. At least you are not trying to do it with 180+ water ready to take your hide off. BTW, use pipe dope or teflon tape sparingly on the threads.
 
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Old 10-12-05, 07:06 PM
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Thank for the help. I knew you had t be asked that. It conjures up quite the mental image.
 
 

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