Boiler Install complete. Check out the pics!

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Old 11-07-05, 07:28 AM
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Talking Boiler Install complete. Check out the pics!

Grady,
Thanks for you help!

On Saturday I finished with boiler plumbing and electrical work and heating coil.
Yestarday indirect DHW was hooked up and working. I had a few pain in ... leaks on the boiler monifold and some miswired sensor wires.
Whole install (including basement prep. work) took about 100 hours. Rough in preceded by weeks of on/off research and planning

Everything seems to work fine now!

There are two things from the manual I didn't do because I don't have apparatus for it:
1) Gas pressure measurement and adjustment
2) Combustion sample.
Should I persue this?

Here are the pics:
1) All prep work is complete. Three basement windows are removed reframed and replaced with glass block. One of the windows has a 4x4 head, thick enough to run two 2" sch40 PVC through it for intake and exhaust. Concrete pad for the boiler is poured( Old boiler was sitting on the bricks, before basement floor was cemented.) Custom boiler and manifold rack is constructed
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010139.JPG

2) Boiler manifold is complete. Major pain!. Too much stuff is placed in too little space. Two of three manifold leak, were in the threaded connections. Pain to fix!
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010146.JPG
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010147.JPG

3) Electrical load and sensor wires ran and ready for hook-up
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010148.JPG

4) Install is complete. Note the data bus from the P125 Peerless controller. Peerless used parallel data bus normally found in PC peripherals interfaces. While more then adequate for that job, it seems awfully out of place here. Any wrong move will destroy the busís very thin wires. I covered the bus with black duct tape for extra protection.
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010154.JPG
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010155.JPG

5)Some more install pics:
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010152.JPG
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010153.JPG
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010156.JPG

6) Spacepak Heating coil: Manufacturing electrical diagrams were incomplete and conflicting. They have two version of the installation document. Coil came with the older version which is inaccurate for the new style Spacepak blower, but includes electrical diagrams for aquastat. New version of the document I got from spacepak site has accurate electrical representation of the blower connections, but is missing the wiring for the aquastat! I contacted the manufacturer, they said that both documentation version are incorrect and they are working on the new one. Meanwhile I should wire aquastat! In the end I installed L60006C strap-on aquastat. Wiring of the aquastat jumps Fan Relay:
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/P1010160.JPG
 

Last edited by slvr00gt; 11-07-05 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 11-07-05, 05:25 PM
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Boiler installation

To answer your questions about the gas pressure check & combustion analysis. Absolutely!!
Something in your first picture jumped out at me. The flex duct being held up with what appears to be 1" plumber's strap. This stuff wii cause duct collapse. Flex duct manufacturers specify 3" strap. I & most guys I know use woven polyproplyene (looks like lawn chair webbing). I suggest running it on a diagonal so you support at least two wires in the flex.

Glad you got it up & running and that I was of some help.
 
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Old 11-07-05, 07:46 PM
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Nice work, but I would have used sheet metal ductwork rather than flex.
Otherwise, looks good!
 
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Old 11-08-05, 05:37 AM
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I didn't have much choice with the selection of the ductwork. House is old and spaces are tight. There is really no place for the sheet metal ductwork.

I didn't do the ductwork and AC install. I hired the company that is suppose to be the best in the area at mini-duct installations in older houses, even their competitors recommended them. When they worked, they didn't seem to cut any corners. It is suprising to me that they didn't use the right straps for flex duct work
 
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Old 11-10-05, 09:15 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by Grady
To answer your questions about the gas pressure check & combustion analysis. Absolutely!!
I scheduled an appointment with local HVAC guy. He said that he will come in and look at it, but would not touch it if anything is done wrong. I did everything by the book, so I should be ok.

Roughly, what is the reasonable price for this kind of service?
 
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Old 11-10-05, 02:19 PM
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Fair Price

Labor rates vary considerabley from company to company & region to region. My company would charge a service call (includes 1hr. labor) plus $20 for the electronic combustion analysis. I have read that some companies charge up to $75 for the testing. Very few guys in my area even have electronic combustion analyzers.
 
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Old 11-21-05, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Grady
Labor rates vary considerabley from company to company & region to region. My company would charge a service call (includes 1hr. labor) plus $20 for the electronic combustion analysis. I have read that some companies charge up to $75 for the testing. Very few guys in my area even have electronic combustion analyzers.
First guy I called just didn't show up, I guess he got scared of the owner-installed system.

So I called up Unique Indoor Comfort, the same guys who did my high velocity AC. They were completely unfazed by my request, they saw my house work before.

Two guys spent 1 hour charging me $229 for the service.

I watched them work. They didn't seem to know the controls of Venturi gas valve and learned/improvised on the spot.

Also, they cut corners. Peerless manual requests the hole to be drilled in the exhaust pipe above first elbow. They just took the samples from the outside tip of the pipe.
Also, I don't believe they fully balanced gas pressure with CO/CO2 discharge, their last adjustment to the gas pressure went without the final check. Their analyzer is not the model that produces print-outs, so there is no paper trace.

I should had bought the analyzer and the monometer from ebay, for about $250 and done this myself

Also, reset controller, PC702, is a waste for my system. When left at default settings, it doesn't sufficiently raise the temp of the boiler to transfer enough btus to coil to raise the temp in the room. If I set the minimum temp in the reset controller to about 165, it does raise the room temperature, but does so by short-cycling the boiler.

I should had bought Peerless version of the of the tekmar controller for modulating boiler: Peerless Pavilion 410, or nothing at all!

I disconnected controller and system works great!
 

Last edited by slvr00gt; 11-22-05 at 11:16 AM.
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