Honeywell L8148e


  #1  
Old 12-05-05, 05:03 AM
NESS925
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Question Honeywell L8148e

I CANNOT GET 24VOLTS AT THE TV-T TERMINALS. I HAVE OR HAD 24 OUT OF THE TRANS.BEFORE I JUMPED AND KILLED THE TRANSFORMER IM BUYING A NEW L8148E TODAY.
THE PROBLEM IS THE UNIT AQUASTAT CONTACTOR CLOSES BUT NOTHING ELSE HAPPENS BUT A HUM SOUND
I WORK ON HEAT PUMPS MOSTLY,WHICH IS DIFFERENT AS NIGHT AND DAY, IM TRYING TO HELP OUT AN OLD RELATIVE WHO HAPPENS TO THINK I KNOW WHAT IM DOING,I THOUGHT SINCE I DID NOT HAVE CONTROL VOLTAGE AT THE THERMO TERM THE PROBLEM IS THE BOARD, HELP
MAYBE IM OVERLOOKING SOMETHING AND AT THE TUNE OF 200.00 A POP I CANNOT MESS THIS UP AGAIN
 
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Old 12-05-05, 07:03 PM
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L8148e

When the relay closes you should get power at B1 & B2 (24VAc) & at C1 & C2 (120VAc). Is this a single or multi zone system? If multi-zone how many zones, does each zone have a zone valve or it's own circulator? If zone valves how many, what kind, & how are they powered?
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-05, 05:09 AM
NESS925
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One Zone

1 Zone With Cir.pump
What Sends The Control 24 To The Thermostat.
I Cant Figure Out What Is Keeping The Thermo From Getting 24 I Had 24 At The B1-b2 But Not At The Tv Top Terminals Small Older House
 
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Old 12-06-05, 05:14 PM
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L8148e

If there is a low limit control (L6006 or equal), the jumper between should be removed, otherwise it stays in place. You should not burn out a transformer by jumpering terminals T & Tv. These are the terminals which are switched via the thermostat. I am wondering if the stat is the problem. Try disconnecting the wires at the 8148, turning the stat up & down to see if you get then loose continuity. Stat wires should be hooked to R & W at the stat.
 
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Old 12-09-05, 04:37 AM
NESS925
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Originally Posted by Grady
If there is a low limit control (L6006 or equal), the jumper between should be removed, otherwise it stays in place. You should not burn out a transformer by jumpering terminals T & Tv. These are the terminals which are switched via the thermostat. I am wondering if the stat is the problem. Try disconnecting the wires at the 8148, turning the stat up & down to see if you get then loose continuity. Stat wires should be hooked to R & W at the stat.
THANK YOU I GOT IT WORKING ALL IS WELL THANKS FOR BEING THERE AND SAVING ME FROM BURNING OUT ANOTHER AQUASTAT $118.00 EACH.
 
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Old 12-09-05, 04:39 AM
NESS925
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Thanks Again
 
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Old 12-09-05, 12:34 PM
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Grady,my boiler came equipped with the same Aquastat...part#L8148E

I am waiting for a Taco 4 zone switching relay to come in right now. I know one end of the thermostat wire (red & white)will have to be connected to the switching realay. Where do the orher end if the thermostat wires connect to on the L8148E?? To the TV and the T terminals??? I just want to be sure.Thanks for your help!!
 
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Old 12-09-05, 03:59 PM
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Ness925 & ZX12R

NESS925: Glad you got it fixed & I was of some help. We are here if you need any more help & will do our best.

ZX12R: There should be a wiring diagram with the Taco relay. Don't take this as absolute fact but as I recall there are two terminals (X & X) on the Taco which will go to the T & TV terminals on the aquastat. Be sure to read & follow the wiring diagram carefully. Check, re-check, & re-re-check all of your wiring before turning on the power.
 
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Old 12-09-05, 08:15 PM
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Smile

OK Grady,the Taco switching relay is supposed to get here on tuesday.I will let you know how it goes.By the way Grady,you should ask for a raise!!
 
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Old 12-09-05, 08:33 PM
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Zx12r

Thanks for the compliment. I, like the other moderators do this because we enjoy helping. It is all volunteer. You might be able to get a heads up here: http://www.taco-hvac.com
 
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Old 12-10-05, 04:32 PM
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I went to Tacos site and looked at the wiring for the 4 zone switching relay Part#SR 504.You are correct,thermostat wires are connected to X and X. So,once 120 VAC is supplied to both the Aquastat L8148E and the Taco SR 504,(I know 4 sets of thermostat wires & 4 Taco circulators are to be connected to the SR 504),this should complete the wiring ,right? In other words,the only wires I have to connect to the Aquastat,are the 2 thermostat wires(one to the T and the other to the TV)?
 
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Old 12-10-05, 05:21 PM
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Sr504

I have never used one of their relays for zone valves so, I am not exactly sure on the wiring. I've used dozens of the circulator relays & boy do they ever make circulator wiring a snap.
 
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Old 12-10-05, 06:47 PM
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Yes,it appears they do.I am using B&G flow control valves,not zone valves. I am not really concerned with Tacos switching relay box,I just want to make sure I don't have to attach any additional wires to the Aquastat(other than the thermostat wires).
 
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Old 12-10-05, 07:13 PM
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Sr 504

Don't know why I thought you were dealing with zone valves. I should have known from the SR 504 you had circulators.
All you need to do is bring 120 volts into the SR 504 & hook the T & TV wires from the aquastat to X & X on the SR 504. From there on, it is a piece of cake to wire this thing. Hope you got a relay with at least one more zone than you need. Every time I install one I do this for two reasons. (1) It gives me another zone for expansion & (2) If one relay goes out all I have to do is move the thermostat & circulator wires to the unused zone should I not have a spare relay on the truck.
 
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Old 12-10-05, 09:30 PM
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LOL,Grady,you are funny.Thank you so much for all the information you provide here!! Are you ready for another question,hopefully my last until I get this darn part in?This ones a little more tricky.Below is a link to my bioler.If you go to that page,to the right in bold red letters,you can click on"24 Volt Control Wiring Diagram" which shows my aquastat.

C1 and C2 is factory supplied line voltage(it says this on my boiler).Attatched to these terminals are 5' wires,a black one to C1,a white one to C2,and a green wire grounded to the box. I am pretty sure that the other end of these wires get connected to the single circulator that came with my boiler(if I was only controlling one circulator).Is that right,Grady?Hold on dont answer yet.


Directly below that is L1 and L2 which is line voltage by installer(it says that on my boiler).

Heres my question.Since I will be running 4 circulators off the SR 504 I was thinking of taking the black wire off of C1,the white wire off of C2 and moving them directly below to L1 and L2.

As I said earlier,i am not worried about the SR 504,its the Aquastat that i am concerned with as four circulators will be used and not one.Thank you!!!!!

http://www.uticaboilers.com/products_gasboilers_mgb.asp
 
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Old 12-11-05, 02:33 PM
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Wiring

Piece of cake. Where's the tricky part? LOL
From L1 & L2 on the aquastat run wires over to the power input terminals of the Taco relay. Then wire each circulator to it's respective set of terminals on the SR 504. You want to move the circulator wires currently hooked to C1 & C2 over to the SR 504. Leaving any circulator hooked to C1 & C2 will cause it to run anytime any other zone is calling for heat. Terminals C1 & C2 will now be unused.
 
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Old 12-11-05, 05:04 PM
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Lol,well, the Aquastat is tricky for me. Thank you,thank you,thank you!!! Before I forget, the thermostat setting on the Aquastat is factory set at 140,do you reccomend leaving it there?
 

Last edited by ZX12R; 12-11-05 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 12-12-05, 02:35 PM
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Aquastat setting

140 is the minimum setting for the aquastat. They ship it that way for safety reasons. I would turn it up to about 170 for starters. You can fine tune from there.
From your comments, I presume this is a new installation? If so, make sure there is a service switch within easy reach while working on the boiler. Bring the 120 volts from the switch to both the aquastat & the relay.
 
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Old 12-12-05, 09:19 PM
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Yes,it's a new installation for my house.When I bought the house 15 years ago the unit was 3 years old.It was a Weil McLain 100,000 BTUH.I had 3 zones,B&G flow control valves,Taco circulators,and an Argo Industries switching relay box.My gas company gave me a quote of $5500.00 for all labor & materials. Another company gave me a price of $6000.00 and they were not going to change the circulators which I did not like.

My brothers friend who is a plumber gave me at his cost a Utica 125,000 BTUH,automatic vent damper,the venting material,3 B&G flow control valves,3 Taco circulators,backflow preventor,Amtrol expansion tank,and 6 copper fittings for a cost including sales tax of $1580.00.

To complete the job,I bought 4 boiler drain valves,,a pressure regulator,Watts air scoop,an automatic vent,1/2" ball shut off valve,four 3/4" ball valves,four 1" ball valves,all the copper including fittings,flanges for the circulators and all piping for the manifold.I decided to add a 4th zone as i want heat in the garage,so,I also bought another B&G flow control valve,another Taco circulator and the SR 504 to control all the zones.With other minor electrical purchases,I spent about another $700.00 for a total of $2300.00 or so.Based on the estimates I received,I am sure I saved at the very least $4000.00 doing the job myself and I doubt very much that they would have routed the plumbing the way I have and wire tied everything as I have.I thank this site and especially you Grady for helping me through the electrical part of it.If you lived close,I would buy you dinner.

By the way,I did put a new service switch in today and wired it as you described below.I await the arrival of the SR 504 and like you said,the rest is a piece of cake!!!Oh,I turned the switch on after wiring it and the automatic vent damper closed,so things look good.
 
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Old 12-13-05, 08:03 PM
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Sr 504

With no spare "zone" available on the SR 504, I strongly suggest you buy a spare plug in relay for it. Just tape the spare rely on top of the control in case you need it. I have not yet had one crap out on me but you never know. If you still have the Argo, it might use the same relays.
I expect pics of the finished job & a full report on how things work.
Guess that will have to do since you won't come here to buy me dinner.
 
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Old 12-16-05, 03:01 PM
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Update

Well,after making the manifold,soldering all the copper together,I hooked up a guage to the air seperator in place of the expansion tank and pressurized the system to 20 psi as suggested.I saw or heard no leaks but it did lose several psi over several hours which i figured was due to the cold temps.I then filled the syatem with water with no leaks at first.The next morning ,i heard a slight hissing sound and thought ,oh,no!! Two pipe fittings on the manifold where 2 circulators connect were leaking very slightly so I disconneted the circulaters and was able to tighten both pipes a bit more.Then,there was a slight drip from the packing of 3 of the 4 B&G flow control valves.I take it that it must be a common thing because there was a note in the instructions stating to simply tighten the nut over the packing if it was leaking.After doing that,I bled the unit and lit the pilot while praying at the same time.No leaks but I did have to again tighten one of the valves.

The SR 504 was supposed to be here last week..its on back order.I called a rep from Taco.Long story short,I found out that some distributors have had them on back order since October as the factory is behind in production.Well,I cant wait(its cold outside!!!),so I hooked up my old Argo unit(3 zones) in the meantime.I had a problem getting one of the zones to work.I had the thermostat on that zone turned down which showed no power at the circulator,which is why the damn heat never came on.I won't tell you how long it took me to figure that out!

The boiler works good,nice and quiet too.I wont hook up up the fourth zone in the garage until summer,but at least the circulator and flow control valve are already there.Actually,I probably won't get the SR 504 until that time also.I do not think Taco makes an SR505 but I do know they make an SR 506(6 zones).I can get it for $25.00 more than the 4 zone relay,so,I should probably get that one.Would you agree?

Thank you Grady for all your help!!!!Thank you too Ken as you answered a question or more about the circulators on another thread!!!If someone can tell me how to post a pic here,I will if you care to see my abortion.

Also,if you are someone who knows nothing about electricity and/or plumbing,you better leave that to the pros.It takes time and patience for a quality installation,not to mention other problems that may or may not occur during or after the installation.I am sure Ken and Grady could tell you some stories.
 
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Old 12-16-05, 04:41 PM
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Xr12r

Don't get us started on war stories. I don't think DIY has enough server space.
If you can get the SR 506 for $25 more, to me, that's a no brainer. The 506 is not a real popular relay so it may even be in stock.
Regarding pictures: You can host them on Yahoo, Photobucket, or a similar site & provide a link.
 
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Old 12-18-05, 11:11 AM
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The Taco SR 506 allows you to make one zone a priority.Is it a good idea to make one zone a priority or should I leave this feature turned off? What are the benefets of this? Will the boiler be more effecient(run less) with the priority zone functional? Sooooo much to learn.

Also,I have the temperature on the Aquastat set at 170 and everything is fine,so,I will leave it there.These questions are more for knowledge. When would you turn it up to 180 or 190? Will the rooms get hotter faster?Will the boiler show more pressure on the guage at higher temps?Will the boiler last longer run at 170 as opposed to 190 over time?
 
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Old 12-18-05, 03:39 PM
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Priority zone, etc.

If you don't have an indirect water heater, leave the priority turned off otherwise put the domestic on the zone with the priority switch & turn the switch on.
You would turn up the aquastat if the heat was not sufficient.
Yes, the rooms would heat faster because you have hotter water. I don't know how much extra gas you would use going to 190 but you would use more gas.
The boiler MIGHT show a little more pressure.
Not likely to have any significant difference in boiler life.
 
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Old 12-19-05, 12:33 PM
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Thanks Grady,heres a link to a picture.Wires going into the old Argo switching relay are looped because it will all be moved this summer when the 4th zone is made functional.Thanks again for all your help!!

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...3_edited-1.jpg
 
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Old 12-19-05, 03:46 PM
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Boiler Photo

Not a bad looking piping job.
Is there room to clean the flueways of the boiler? Hard to tell from pic.
Some constructive criticism, if I may: Valves on both sides of circulator make changing a circulator easy & sooner or later you will have to change one.
The same is true of the reducing valve. I put valves on both sides & a union on at least one side.
A valve between the air scoop & expansion tank comes in handy too.
As I'm sure you can tell, I'm a valve freak. But when I have to service a component, it's valve it off, repair or replace the component, open the
valve(s), & see ya.
All in all, nice job.
 
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Old 12-19-05, 06:05 PM
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Yes,there is plenty of room to get into the flue areas.I didn't realize flues needed cleaning on a gas fired boler.If,so,how often.

Any criticisim is good because we learn from it.

Damn,you are a valve freek! Good idea though,although its too late for me. lol
 
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Old 12-19-05, 06:54 PM
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Common Misconception

They don't need cleaning nearly as often as oil fired boilers but once in a while a good brushing is in order. The biggest problem usually is with boilers in damp basements where they tend to "sweat" in the summer the flueways tend to collect rust. I suggest checking it each fall & see how it looks. If clean, put the cover back on & let 'er slide.
Regarding valves: When customers ask why so many valves, I tell them they can pay me now for the installation of the valves or pay my labor later when I have to drain, refill, & purge the system of air. I guarantee them it is a lot cheaper to pay me now.
 
 

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