oil primary control...

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Old 12-31-05, 03:37 PM
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oil primary control...

My oil primary control has been acting weird for the past year. It a Honeywell R4184D model. Every now and then, the reset button would pop up and stop firing the boiler. I have to push the reset button and it will operate normal for a few weeks. Could this be electrical problem on my line like a spike or the unit is just too old and need replacement?
I know Honeywell no longer manufacture this box anymore. Would 7184U be an acceptable replacement??
 
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Old 12-31-05, 04:35 PM
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The easiest replacement would be either a R8184G or R7184A. The 7184U is a nice control but to take full advantage of it you would need to do some re-wiring & install an electricly operated solenoid valve on your fuel pump. The problem may not be with the primary but the motor. An old timers way, & one that works quite well, to check the relay in the primary is to have the burner running & rap the side of the primary with a screwdriver handle. Don't hit it like you are trying to knock it off the junction box, just a firm tap. If the burner stops, even momentarily, the control is bad. If it does not, & you want to know how to check the motor, post back & I can tell you how. BTW, you will need an ohm meter which can be set for no more than 50 ohms @ full scale. Most digitals will work.
 
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Old 12-31-05, 05:29 PM
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I wouldn't condemn the control. The most likely reason for it going into lockout is because it is doing its job. The flame sensor could be bad, ignition weak, flame not adjusted properly, bad start switch in burner motor, defective delayed oil valve (if present), or just a general need for tune-up. Just because it starts when you hit the reset doesn't mean it starts every single time. Intermittent lockout is probably one of the most difficult to solve in one shot without replacing several parts.

Ken
 
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Old 01-01-06, 12:55 PM
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Well, I did the tap thing on the primary control during firing. The burner did stop for a second and fire back up right away. I only tapped it with my knuckle. Didn't even tap it that hard. Now what?? Should I replace the control or should I troubleshoot other parts before replacing the control??

If I have to replace the control, the current unit has a 45 seconds lockout time. Should I get one with the same lockout time??? I saw the 7148A has 3 different lockout time unit, 15, 30 & 45 seconds. What's the difference? How do I know which one is suitable for my boiler?

As for the flame sensor, start switch or delayed oil valve. Is there something I can do to check them myself or I have to call the HVAC guy to check them?
 
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Old 01-01-06, 05:18 PM
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Primary control

If it dropped out with such a light tap, I suggest replacing it. If you have no fuel supply problems & the oil delay solenoid is 5 seconds or less, I prefer the fastest safety I can get.
You can check the flame sensor with an ohm meter as follows: Disconnect the flame sensor wires at the primary (F-F or S-S). Start the buner & once flame is established install a jumper across the sensor terminals. Use an ohm meter to measure resistance thru the flame sensor. You must have no more than 1200 ohms (less than 800 ohms is prefered). When finished testing, remove the jumper & reconnect the wires to the terminals.
Checking the start switch on the burner motor is a bit more involved but if you really want to do it post back & I will tell you how.
 
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Old 01-01-06, 08:43 PM
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I agree with Grady. If the control is weak, it will act up in more than one way. It may click in and out repeatedly or drop out for a second and then pull in again. I owuld suggest the 15 second lockout on the 7184. If the burner isn't started by then, it should lock out. Be careful if you have a delayed oil valve because the delay in the valve will be added to the valve-on delay of the control and can reduce the safety timing by the length of the valve delay. A non-delay valve is best with that control.

Ken
 
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Old 01-02-06, 09:05 AM
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I want to thank you both for your advice.

Before I run out and buy a new control, I have another question. Although I haven't check the flame detector yet, however the current detector is a Honeywell C554A. Does it make sense to replace that as well just in case? If so, would the same model work with the R7184A or I should get a different model. What would you recommend? When I saw the spec. on the C554A, it did not say it would work with R7184A.

Also, I don't believe I have an delay oil valve, so I think I should be okay with this conrol.
 
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Old 01-02-06, 09:59 AM
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The flame detector in your burner is compatible with all Honeywell residential oil burner safety controls. Also it is compatible with all Beckett and Carlin controls and I think all White-Rodgers controls. You could replace it because it is inexpensive but beware, some of the replacement detectors do not fit as tightly into the socket as the original and since a good electrical connection is required, you may need to go inside the socket with a tiny screwdriver and compress the terminal inside the socket to get a snug fit for the pins on the flame detector. The weak coil problem of your control is not related to your flame detector. It is a problem with your control from age and use.

Ken
 
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Old 01-02-06, 03:10 PM
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Flame detector

Check the wires from the control to the detector. If they are at all brittle or any cracks in the insulation (particularly at the base of the socket) are found, replace the whole assembly & avoid any potential problems. The retail cost for the holder w/wires, sensor, & mounting brackets is around $25-30.
 
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