Running water sound coming from baseboard

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-10-06, 11:19 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Running water sound coming from baseboard

Hi. Our house is heated by Suntemp hot water baseboards with a P-WGO-6 Weil Mclain oil boiler. We had our annual service on the boiler this past September. We were told the boiler is burning efficiently. Since we started turning on the heat, we are hearing a lot of running water and loud gurgling sounds from the baseboards. From reading the various queries in this site, it sounds like we have air in the baseboard pipes. But, I don't see any thing I can bleed on the baseboards. The copper pipe comes up from the floor on one end and down the floor in the other end of the baseboard. There is no valve at all. In the basement, there is a pressure tank next to the boiler. Is this where I should bleed out the air? How do I do that? Also, I looked at the boiler and noticed there is a valve (at least I think it is a valve) coming up from the boiler. I notice and hear water seeping from it. In front of the boiler is a gauge. The temperature is at 200 and the water psi is 0. Don't know if this matters. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

Last edited by Novice134; 01-10-06 at 11:52 AM. Reason: add boiler model
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-10-06, 03:44 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Novice

With the pressure at 0, it's no wonder you hear water running thru the pipes. If you can host & provide a link to a picture or two of your boiler & the nearby piping, we can likely point out the pressure reducing valve.
 
  #3  
Old 01-11-06, 10:32 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Here are the pictures. Thanks for looking at this.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...973/Boiler.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ansionTank.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2..._on_Boiler.jpg

The rusty valve sticking up from the boiler is the one I see water seeping from it and and leaking air/water sound.
 

Last edited by Novice134; 01-11-06 at 10:34 AM. Reason: add additional comments
  #4  
Old 01-11-06, 05:25 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up Good Pix, thanks

I'm going to address the rusty valve first. It is an automatic air vent designed to allow any air to vent to the atmosphere. Obviously it is leaking & in need of replacement. The are available at some home centers & just about any plumbing supply house. Don't worry about shape or basic configuration as long as it is 1/8" pipe thread & has a cap which can be used to close off a leaking vent. Replace it while the pressure is down. I advise allowing the boiler to cool before trying to replace the auto vent. You may have to open the drain valve at the bottom of the boiler to insure all the pressure is off the boiler.

In the second picture there is a device behind the grey tank. That is your pressure reducing valve. Make sure any valves in the water line with it are open. If they are, loosen the lock nut on the top of the PRV & turn the screw in a turn or two. You should hear water going into the boiler. Once the pressure is back up to 10-15# reset the screw to it's original position & make sure the water stops going in. After you get the pressure back up you should have heat.
 
  #5  
Old 01-11-06, 06:08 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Grady, my husband saw that the red handle valve (please see picture) was closed. He opened it and the pressure when up to 10. (I guess when we had the annual furnace maintenance, it was left close by mistake?) However, he didn't hear any water going into the boiler. Do we still have to adjust the PRV? Also, will we have to bleed anything? Since there is no valve on the baseboard, where will we bleed out the air?

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2..._we_opened.jpg

Regarding the rusty automatic air vent, do we have to replace it immediately? What damage can it cause? To replace, do we just turn off the boiler, wait for it to cool, then unscrew the old vent, and screw in the new? Thanks again.
 
  #6  
Old 01-11-06, 06:23 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Pressure

The water probably fed so quickly you didn't hear it. With a little luck, the air should be taken out by the big brass device in the center of picture #2.
I suggest replacing the auto vent as soon as practical. To do so you will need to shut off the infamous red handled vavle, turn off the boiler & allow it to cool, connect a hose to the drain valve just above the yellow handled valve in picture #1, close the yellow handled valve on the right of the circulator in picture #2, open the drain valve to relieve the pressure, & install the new auto vent. When done close the drain valve, open the red handled valve, open the yellow handled valve, & turn the power back on. When you open that drain valve you will probably only loose a gallon or so of water.
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-06, 04:06 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Grady, thank you. We will purchase a new vent and try it out. Will send update when done.
 
  #8  
Old 01-13-06, 08:38 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Grady, I went to a plumbing store and showed them a picture of the vent. They sold me a Float Type Air Vent - Model 700-30 1/8" NPT by Amtrol. I noticed on the box that there are 2 warnings:

1. This product contains a chemical known by the state of California to cause cancer.
2. This product contains a chemical known by the state of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm.

This has me concerned. Do you know anything about this? Can you recommend another brand of air vent without these chemicals?

Thank you.
 
  #9  
Old 01-13-06, 04:12 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Novice

Living in California is known to the State of California to cause birth defects & cancer. If you ate 100 of these vents a day for 100 years, you might get cancer. Forget about it.
 
  #10  
Old 01-21-06, 09:57 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Grady, my husband installed the automatic air vent today. Everything seems to be working. We want to thank you very much for all your great help and patience.
 
  #11  
Old 01-21-06, 11:01 AM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Novice134

You are most welcome. If you have any other problems with the heat or just about anything else around the house we are here & will do our best to help.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: