Baseboards..clicking sound

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  #1  
Old 03-15-06, 06:50 PM
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Baseboards..clicking sound

Please, give me suggestions on how to solve this..I cant sleep at night due to the clicking sound my water-forced baseboards do.. The clicking is annoying....I read there is no solution but spare me the misery and give some hope....i just bought this house and is being a nightmare....now i am stuck with this pesky sound all nite long..I just dont get it, some houses with the same heat system dont have this clicking sound...
the baseboad is pretty long, about 16 ft, it goes around one corner of the room. The outlet water pipe is mounted on top of the heating fins. Could this be the culprit? or Do you think is because is too long? i still cant pinpoint where is the problem.. Is not rubbing against anything to make that clicking noise...Will replacing the heating fins solve the problem?

How much will it cost to change to oil gas system, is a big house 0.23 acres...How difficult is to change to electric baseboard just for my bedroom?........
 
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Old 03-15-06, 07:47 PM
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It can be a few things..

A few questions for you.

Have the air been blead from the baseboard/system?

What is your boiler temp and water pressure?

Have you removed the baseboard over, and see if the fins are clean?
 
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Old 03-16-06, 04:05 AM
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I havent blead the boiler. Boiler temperature is at 190 F, the boiler pressure is at 10PSI. The water heater temp is at 120F...All plumbers tell me is the expansion and is rubbing against something..But when i opened the baseboards, i cant pinpoint where is it rubbing. I may need to inspect it more carefully....The fins are dirty and some are crushed but i dont think this is the culprit...A friend of mine has baseboards with oil based system and the fins are crushed, and he doesnt get the clicking noise....
 
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Old 03-16-06, 05:46 PM
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Clicking baseboard

I believe the sound is due to expansion of the pipe/heating element. Check the ends of the pipes where they come thru the wall/floor. Often the pipe is rubbing against the structure. There should be at least 1/8" gap all the way around the pipe. Check it when cold then turn up the thermostat & let the pipes heat. You might be surprised how much they move. Some brands of baseboard have plastic strips along the bottom of the element to help reduce noise.

I moved the thread becaue it deals with a hot water system.
 
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Old 03-16-06, 07:11 PM
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Grady

The pipe ends dont emit any sound...This creaking/clicking noise is definately coming from the baseboards/heating element, all along the baseboard. The baseboards covers i have were bought at home depot. I never got a chance to change the heating elements/fins..Do you suggest changing the heating element? Do old crushed fins can possibly make that noise? bleeding the system is not the culprit since i get plenty of heat.. according to plumbers, bleeding is needed if there was air stuck in the pipes. Air acts like a blockage, and the continous water flow is block plus you wont get any heat....
any other suggestions, thanks
 
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Old 03-16-06, 07:34 PM
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Noise

The plumbers are right on the air thing. Part of your problem could be the routing of the pipe over the element. This can create stress on the element & the element being much thinner pipe than the rest, flexes. The problem too, could be the lack of plastic "runners" where the element contacts the support brackets. I suggest you closely look at your baseboard element & examine it for these "runners". If you find none or they are worn out, you should replace the element.
 
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Old 03-16-06, 09:23 PM
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An outdoor reset controller would help - and save energy too.
 
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Old 03-27-06, 11:58 PM
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As others have said, the noise comes from the expansion of the metal as it heats up/cools down. Cheap baseboard doesn't have the plastic slide brackets that eliminate this noise.


How is your domestic hot water heated? Does it come off of the boiler, or do you have a stand-alone water heater?
If you don't have a tankless coil in your boiler for DHW, the easiest fix is to turn the boiler water temperature down. By using a lower temperature, the piping will see less drastic temperature fluctuations, and the clicking will be greatly reduced. Most baseboard systems are oversized, which means that you can lower the water temperatures quite a bit and still get enough heat output. In my house, even on a 0 degree night, I only need to run 150 degree water. When it's 30 degrees, I can run 120 degree water.

Now you can't turn the temperature on your boiler down this far because it will result in the boiler condensing internally which is bad for the equipment. You need to keep the return temperatures above 140 degrees. I would suggest lowering the temperature on your aquastat to 170. See what that does to the noises. If it still happens, try going a little lower. Go as low as you can while keeping the return temperatures above 140, and you are still maintaining you thermostat setting in the house.

As Who said, an outdoor reset controller will do this automatically. When it is warmer outside and you don't need high temperature water, it will turn it down. When it gets cold ouside, it will turn the water temperature up. The goal is to basically achieve constant circulation through the baseboard. Then the temperature changes would be slow enough to not cause the expansion noises. A contractor would need to install this, and the best way to do it is to do some minor boiler repiping so that your baseboard can see temperatures as low as 100 degrees, while the boiler stays above 140 degrees.
 
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Old 03-30-06, 09:57 AM
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guys thanks for all the help..

Part of the problem lies how they run the water return pipeline... It is sitting on top of the fins. See the heat was converted from electric to gas by the previous owner. Usually, they run the return pipes into the walls, but my room (downstairs) has concrete walls on one side. so i will need to run the pipes across the room 'til i find a wood wall...Since the return water pipe is lying on the fins, is not only rubbing against the fins but also against the bracket hook. So what i have done is to insulate the pipes with a cheap foam. Since the foam can shrink and be wedged into almost any space, i was able to cover almost every metal i can possibly think is rubbing against. Now, i dont have that constant clicking noise but a subtle foam noise. It's far from perfect, but i run out of anymore ideas....Luckily summer is coming, but it will be back with a vengance....
Maybe i can replace the slant/fin covers with a higher, bigger baseboard covers that will give me more room to work with, and so the pipes can be lifted up more and i can wrap more insulation, and the fins will have room enough so doesnt rub against any metal. Also i was hoping to replace the plastic runners with a foam instead but there is not much clearance space since the pipes is sitting on the fins and the bracket hook is just above it.
 
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Old 03-30-06, 05:10 PM
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Pyro

I installed a couple of baseboard runs in my house with the return going over the fins but they do not touch each other. Maybe with a little re-fitting, you can get the return to clear the fins.
 
  #11  
Old 04-02-06, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady
I installed a couple of baseboard runs in my house with the return going over the fins but they do not touch each other. Maybe with a little re-fitting, you can get the return to clear the fins.
May i ask, what brand of baseboard covers you used? How tall are they? How much clearance is between the return pipe and fins? Does the return pipe hit the bracket hooks (on top) of the covers?
 
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Old 04-03-06, 05:20 PM
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Baseboard

The baseboard was Heatrim American. Just happened to be the brand my supply house carries. I did not specificly look for that brand.
The baseboard cover (measured at the end cap) is 7 1/2" tall.
There is +/- 1/4" between the fins and the return pipe & it does not hit the brackets.
Something I did to insure the pipe does not hit the fins is to suspend the pipe from the brackets with 14 ga. bare copper wire.
 
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