Removing a radiator ?


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Old 04-22-06, 02:44 PM
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Exclamation Removing a radiator ?

I have an oil fired hot water boiler system that heats the 1940 house thru cast iron radiators and supplies hot water thru copper piping. I need to remove a radiator on the second floor to remodel a room and plan to have the radiator stripped then reinstall it. (It has at least 4 coats of the latex and oil based paint on it)
I know that I have to lower the water level in the boiler to disconnect the radiator.
MY question is..how will it affect the operation of the system if I remove the radiator and cap the send and return lines?
Can I refill the boiler and use it for hot water?
The hot water header in the basement has separate risers for each radiator on the line, and there are about 4 rads on this header.
It is spring and will not need the heat until fall.
Thanks
 

Last edited by Bo Borland; 04-22-06 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 04-22-06, 05:41 PM
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Removing radiator

For the summer, you can just drop the pressure, remove the radiator, cap the lines, & put the boiler back in service after repressurizing the system. If there is any possibility the rad will not be back in the loop before the heating season, you need to install a "jumper" pipe between the two stubs.
 
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Old 04-22-06, 06:41 PM
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Repressurize?

Thanks Grady , I understand about the "jump pipe" but that will not be a problem..
If I drop the water level, disconnect the rad and cap the ends... but what is re-pressurise ?
 
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Old 04-22-06, 09:45 PM
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Re-Pressurize

It means to refill the boiler & system. Try to purge as much air as is practical. The easiest way is thru the bleeders on the radiators.
 
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Old 04-23-06, 11:04 AM
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refilling the boiler

Thanks Grady, I read thru the ops manual,it is an older
Weil-McClain, it says to refill to the proper level, mentions a see thru glass to set the water level, but there is no apparent viewer of way to see the proper water level.
If I cut the power, open the boiler drain on the side and lower the pressure until water in the rad drops below the floor I guess I can disconnect it, but I am concerned about the refill and re pressurizing ... not wanting blow it up or damage the boiler..
Any ideas?
B
 
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Old 04-24-06, 05:03 PM
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Hot water or steam?

If it is hot water, you would not have a sight glass.
When refilling, watch the pressure gauge & stay below 20 psi. As a rule, 12-15# is plenty of pressure for most houses.
 
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Old 06-21-06, 01:33 PM
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Hot water radiators removal

I need help for someone who know how to disassamble hot water radiators.We have changed the heating system in your home and now come the hard tasks of removing them from the floor and some are mounted on the wall and are very heavy!!!We have 22 to remove and disassamble to either bring to the scrap yard or have someone pick up.We had some advise but I want the right way to remove the radiators.We have been told to use 20 pounds sledge hammer to break them in sections?And some are mounted on the wall,we can't hit the radiators on the wall?Anyways we're becoming very frustrated at this point and this task is becoming harder to figure out!!!Please help!!!
Thanks
 
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Old 06-21-06, 04:56 PM
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Radiator removal

There is a market for cast iron radiators. Obviously the buyers want them intact. If you must destroy them to get them out of the house, a 3-5# hand sledge is more than enough. The cast will crack & break very easily. Start at one end & work your way to the other. Sometimes they can be taken apart by driving wooden wedges where you want the sections to come apart.
 
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Old 06-22-06, 03:35 AM
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Removing the hot water radiators

Dear Grady,
I agree it would be best to kept them intact but when you have three stories and no manpower for this task .I live in Canada and the market is not so promising then in the States.I appreciate any help and fishing is much more relaxing!!!Lol.One more question some radiators are mounted on the wall,there are quite large,how do we proceed without destroying the walls.
Thanks Trinity from Quebec
 
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Old 06-22-06, 07:00 PM
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Removing radiators

With the ones attached to the wall, just break a bit more gently. If you can find a hammer which will fit snugly between the sections, you can use it as a "backer" to help prevent the force of the impact from being transmitted down the length of the rad.
If I ever get some time & the weather co-operates I'm going to wet a line.
 
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Old 06-23-06, 12:34 PM
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How to remove old radiators

Dear Grady,
Thanks for the useful information !!! Is it possible that with the years that the push nipples or rods that hold the radiators together are fused and even if you whack them with the sledge hammer,they won't come apart?
Trinity from Quebec,Canada
 

Last edited by trinity117; 06-23-06 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 06-23-06, 04:41 PM
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Radiator

The rods are steel & will need to be cut before starting demolition. The push nipples are short & thus not an issue. The cast will likely break away from them anyway.
 
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Old 06-23-06, 06:16 PM
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Removing the hot water radiators

Dear Grady,

Thanks for all the advice well appreciated.
Trinity117
 
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Old 06-15-09, 03:05 PM
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Hi Grady,

Continuing this thread I have a related question. I had my heating/AC guy disconnect a HW radiator today so I could work on the wall behind it. They did not cap the lines (obviously, they didn't repressurize the system). It will probably be disconnected until late Summer or early Autumn - should I cap the pipes and repressurize while the radiator is disconnected? I have a separate HW heater so I don't need to use the heater until the cool weather arrives (I live near Philly).

Regards,
Tom
 
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Old 06-16-09, 07:22 AM
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I'm not Grady but I would strongly recommend that the open pipes be capped. It is not necessary to pressurize the system until after you reconnect the radiator.
 
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Old 06-16-09, 08:33 AM
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Removing a radiator ?

Hi FURD,

That's what I figured - thanks for the reply.

Tom
 
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Old 06-16-09, 06:25 PM
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Cap Pipes

I agree. The pipes most certainly should be capped. If they are steel simply use threaded caps. If copper, get a couple of Shark Bite caps but cap them.
 
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Old 06-18-09, 07:10 PM
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I'm going to remove a rad while doing renos, this rad has no unions between the elbows and bushings on the rad which I'm assuming is left hand thread. So I'm guessing that I undo the nipples both a little at a time and when they're to be re-joined should I use some pipe joint compound. Also I assume the reason for capping the pipes is to protect the threads. Thanks
 

Last edited by stevegb; 06-18-09 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 06-19-09, 03:49 PM
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I would be extremely surprised if your radiator was installed using left-right nipples. Much more likely is that the piping was installed from the radiator to the piping in the basement. You will need to cut the pipe and later insert a union to re-install the radiator.

Capping the pipes is to protect the threads but also to keep the water from "burping" out of the pipes and to avoid foreign material from entering.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 01:28 PM
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I unhooked two rads today and they both had left-right nipples. I guess thats how they did it 100 years ago in southern Ontario.
 

Last edited by stevegb; 06-23-09 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 07-16-09, 08:33 AM
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steam vs. hot water

I've a steam system where I'd like to temporarily remove some radiators to refinish the baseboard behind them. I saw the earlier posts but it seems they were for hot water. Is there a difference between steam and hot water in reference to draining and re-pressurizing? Am I taking unwarranted risk for 6' of base board (three 2' long radiators)?
 
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Old 07-16-09, 04:02 PM
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Steam Rads

There should be no draining needed. The only water you should get might be some condensation trapped in the rads.
 
 

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