Adding an indirect (Indirect Water Tank)


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Old 07-24-06, 08:46 AM
HTRK-1
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Adding an indirect (Indirect Water Tank)

I'm considering adding an indirect water tank to my 17 year old Peerless JO/JOT Oil fired boiler (Becket AFG gun). The installer suggested updating the controls on the boiler. I assume this is so the boiler will be more of a cold start type than maintaining constant temp. Does converting to cold start have any negative affects on this older boiler? I live in south central PA, so right now my boiler runs all year round to heat the internal domestic coil (even when we're not using the heat). Does a indirect tank sound like a cost effective way to save on fuel oil? Any comments/recommendations about controls or indirects in this application would be greatly appreciated. Should I consider an outdoor reset? We just purchased this home so we will be here for a long time. Thanks
 
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Old 07-24-06, 02:21 PM
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Htrk-1

An indirect would certainly save you money on the fuel bill as would an outdoor reset. As far as any downside to converting to a cold start: I don't like to see "pin" boilers set up for cold start particularly if they are in a humid basement. Unfortunately, the Peerless web site has no information on discontinued models & I don't know off the top of my head if the JO/JOT is or is not a pin type boiler. Nor do I know the water capacity of the boiler & how long it would take to reach 140º or so from a cold start. If it takes more than 5 minutes or so, you could easily run out of hot water before the boiler actually starts transfering any significant amout of heat to the domestic tank. One way around the condensation from a humid basement & the slow warm up time is to maintain the boiler at ±105º. Of course, this cuts into your fuel savings.
 
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Old 07-24-06, 02:25 PM
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Indirect is one of the most efficient ways to do DWH.

Outdoor reset with DHW priority is a simple control strategy that will save money and increase comfort. Tekmar controls are among the most popular around here (SE MA). Depending on your building's heat loss and heat emitter characteristics, you may need some form of boiler protection to keep return temperatures above that which causes condensation in your boiler. A good installer already knows all this.

Both of those you could do now, and with proper planning, be ready down the road for a new boiler.

Can't speak to the cold-start issue.

btw, where in S central PA? I spent several years in the Carlisle area....
 

Last edited by xiphias; 07-24-06 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 07-25-06, 03:14 AM
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I'm from York PA. I visit Carlisle fairly often during the summer for all the car shows. Thanks for the info. I think I may go with the indirect. I really wanted the tekmar controls, but they aren't in the budget ($1200.00). My installer mentioned some other controls that use an outdoor reset on the zone valves themselves. He said this may be a less expensive option. I haven't really found any info on these. I will probably go with a standard aquastat and upgrade to the tekmar's when I replace the boiler. Do you recommend any particular model of indirect? My installer is well known in this area and is a dealer for most systems. Grady, the unit is a 120K Btu unit. I have the original manual that came with it. I will look up the specs for the heat rise time. The unit looks and has similar specs to the ECT unit on the Peerless website. Again thanks for the replies guys.
 
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Old 07-25-06, 06:51 PM
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In York, try Dave Yates at http://www.fwbehler.com/

1200 for tekmar sounds like a complete TN4 system, reset, stats, etc. You don't necessarily have to go that complex. Something like a tekmar 260 might do it depending on the specifics of your system.

I've read good things about the Taco iSeries outdoor reset valves. that would be simple.

good luck.
 
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Old 07-26-06, 05:43 AM
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It's funny you mentioned Dave. FW Behler is who I will be having install the equipment when I get the quote back. Dave seem like a knowledgable guy and they have a good reputation. I will ask about the simpler controls. Thanks
 
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Old 07-26-06, 02:23 PM
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I want to have an indirect but three out of three installers have advised me to go the water heater route instead. They swear the indirect is too expensive and I'll never make up the extra money invested becasue I'll be firing a big boiler all summer long to heat hot water.

I wonder if their math is correct?

J
 
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Old 07-26-06, 04:43 PM
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jurched

It largely depends on how big the boiler is. My boiler only fires @ 105,000 & when I swithed from an electric water heater to an indirect my electric bill dropped $50 a month. That was about 12 years ago.
 
 

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