Expansion tank specs

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

10-18-06, 05:02 PM

racerXY

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Oct 2006

Posts: 3

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

Expansion tank specs

I am replacing a leaking expansion tank. The old tank is a Amtrol Extrol model 30; The local home center told me I can replace it with a Watts Industries ET-30. However, there are some discrepancies in the specs:
The Watts is slightly larger (Tank: 4.7 Gallon vs. 4.4 Gallons; Acceptance: 3.0 Gallon vs. 2.5 Gallons)

The working pressure on the Watts is significantly less (60 PSIG vs. 100 PSIG for the Amtrol) -- since the pressure is typically 12-20 PSIG, is this a critical difference?

Are these tanks truly interchangeable?

Thanks!

Upvote

10-19-06, 03:15 PM

Grady

Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: Delaware, The First State

Posts: 12,667

Upvotes: 1

Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts

Watts ET-30

The Watts ET-30 is a replacement for your current tank, but I do not recommend it since it has no valve for checking/adjusting the air pressure.

Upvote

10-19-06, 06:53 PM

racerXY

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Oct 2006

Posts: 3

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

Watts Et 30

Thank you for the response Sir.
The Watts tank actually does have a Schrader-type air valve (automobile tire air valve) at the opposite end from the NPT fitting. The spec sheet does not mention it for some reason, but I checked an actual unit and it is defintely there.
Would the greater working pressure of the Amtrol (100 PSI vs. 60) be likely to result in better longevity even though both are well above the actual working pressure of 12-20 PSIG? The Amtrol I have now only lasted 8 years before developing a pin-hole leak, so I am not too impressed with that.

Thanks again!

Upvote

10-20-06, 04:21 AM

zaq123

Member

Join Date: Sep 2006

Location: usa

Posts: 78

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

I think you are confused. Both of those tanks designed to work at 12 psi and have 12 psi air charge in them. However, they have different max. design pressure, for Watts 60 and 100psi for Amtrol.

Upvote

10-20-06, 04:59 AM

racerXY

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Oct 2006

Posts: 3

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

Thank you. I understand that both are suitable replacements. My question is if there is any advantage to using the product with 100 PSIG vs 60PSIG max working pressure in terms of product longevity and durability -- i.e. will it last longer?

Upvote

10-20-06, 01:54 PM

Grady

Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: Delaware, The First State

Posts: 12,667

Upvotes: 1

Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts

Tank

Probably no significant difference in the tanks. I didn't see a schrader in the web pic thus my comment.

Upvote

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Show Printable Version

Email this Page

Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
Problem with zone 3 on baseboard hot water boiler

S

StephenJ on Oct 19, 2006

First off thanks for providing these forums. They helped me with a few previous problems. I have a 3 zone, I guess 4 zone because the water heater is a seperate zone on the system, hot water boiler system that heats my home. I prevoiusly had a problem and had to purge zone 1 and 3 to get heat running in baseboards. I had well pump problems and I dont think the water was being made up. Everything seemed to be running smoothly until I checked zone 3. There wasn't any water circulating in that zone. I took apart the Taco circulator and air was trapped in the circulator. I induced water to the circulator and everything ran fine for a day. I checked the zone on the second day and it had air trapped in the circulator again. Zone 3 looks like it was added later. There isn't a flow-check nor a air bleed in the zone. My question is if I added an air bleed at the high point will this help resolve my problem? or could my circulator need cleaning or replacement? Thanks for any input. I can provide more information of pictures if needed to understand my situation.
Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
Old 2 Wire Wiring Issue on an American Standard G25 system

K

KYPTP on Oct 14, 2006

I currently have an old natural gas American Standard G25 system (without circulating pump) that the well went bad along with the gas valve. Upon installing a new L4006A-1678 and V800A-1070, I had marked all the wiring connections so I could quickly wire all three wire sets back up in series (I believe) but now I am missing the original immersion control with the wires still attached to complete this installation. So I am in need of a little help of how the two parts should be wired so I don't ruin the new parts. I currently have two wires coming in from the thermostat/transformer and I already have the wires attached to the TH and TR (V800A) but I don't know how I should wire in the aquastat. This is where I am confused and the wiring diagrams are pretty vague on this setup. If I need to rewire to replace the old original 2 wire, especially since a new A/C unit was installed prior to me purchasing the home and they installed a seperate White Rodgers 1F86-244 Thermostat and I think it makes sense to just combine the two thermostats. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.