Another baseboard bleeding question


  #1  
Old 10-25-06, 04:12 PM
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Another baseboard bleeding question

I have read several posts but still can't seem to get the air out of my system.

I replaced about 20 feet of copper baseboard. The system heats up but the rushing water noise is driving me bonkers

Here is a link to a picture of my system. http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/boiler.jpg

Please advise

Mark
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-06, 04:21 PM
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Wink

Have to ask . Why didnt you put a bleeder in the new line. look like you are set up to purge it. Did you?
 
  #3  
Old 10-25-06, 04:28 PM
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LOL didn't even cross my mind to put a bleeder in. I have tried to bleed it with out success. Not sure if I am doing it correctly

I have closed the valve for the Zone above the furnace.
Then opened the purge valve above the circulator pump. I have water and air flow out of the hose. Just when I think all the air is gone. I turn up the T-stat and "gurgle". I have let this purge for an hour and still no success

Am I missing something? The presure drops from 15# to 0 when purging then builds right backup when the valve is closed.

Should the fill be closed or open during purging?
Should the furnace be on or off?
 
  #4  
Old 10-25-06, 04:52 PM
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More pictures may not be needed

http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/gauge.jpg.
http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/uppervalves.jpg
http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/uppervalves2.jpg
 
  #5  
Old 10-25-06, 06:41 PM
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Talking

I'm only asking coz one time after a few beers..... I said some really bad words bleeding my system......Then I opened the MAKE UP water valve, and tried to explain why I was angry.
 
  #6  
Old 10-26-06, 04:16 AM
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I have no idea what that means
 
  #7  
Old 10-26-06, 06:23 AM
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Air Purge

Review your purge technique; the zone valve has to be OPEN.

On most purge valves, there's a double control on the purge valve; half of it closes off the main pipe while the other half is opened & a short length of hose is connected & directed into a bucket.

The water fill valve is then opened to allow water to rush thru that section of the main to expel the air/water into the bucket until no bubbles are visible; this procedure should get most if not all the air out of the main.

The hose tap is then closed, the main tap on the purge is reopened, & the zone valve closed to allow normal operation of the main.
 
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Old 10-26-06, 06:33 AM
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Thanks Jack,

I am still unsure of which valves I should be turning.
By looking at my pictures are you able to tell which valves should be opened or closed.
THis is the Process I have done thus far.
1. Close valve above the furnace there are 4 and I know which one is for the zone in question.

2. Open purge valve with hose attached

3. Open fast feed to keep pressure up while purging.

I have done this repeatedly with no success
 
  #9  
Old 10-26-06, 07:06 PM
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Air Purge

It still sounds like the wrong procedure; "the valve above the boiler" (zone valve) has to be manually OPENED (they are normally in a closed position) before you begin to purge each zone; there is usually a little lever on the side or bottom of the valve to do this.

This should route the water thru that particular zone when you open the purge valve & hit the fast fill.

I am not able to access your posted photos; I wrote to the site administrator about this to no avail.

Perhaps Grady or one of the regular contributors who have photo access will chime in; hang in there, you'll get it done eventually, even if you have to add a few bleeder screw valves to the piping at the top of the system.
 
  #10  
Old 10-26-06, 07:09 PM
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http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/boiler.jpg
http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/gauge.jpg.
http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/uppervalves.jpg
http://www.pilgrim.com/mark/uppervalves2.jpg

You should just be able to copy and paste these links into your browser

The wife is getting annoyed

Thanks
 
  #11  
Old 10-26-06, 07:39 PM
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Purge

Mark,

I was able to manually download one of your photos; you have a circulator-type zone system; the "valves above the boiler" are flow-check valves.

The procedure with this equipment would be to CLOSE those flow checks on the zones you DON'T want to purge by turning the top screws in clockwise, & leaving OPEN the flow check only on the zone you do want to purge, then hit the fast fill.

You will have to purge each zone seperately using this procedure to get all the air out.

I erronously thought you had electric zone valves, which require a different procedure.

Make sure you OPEN all the flow check valves by turning all the tabs counterclockwise after you are done purging for the system to operate correctly.
 
  #12  
Old 10-26-06, 07:41 PM
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Sweet! Thanks Jack I will give a shot now
 
  #13  
Old 10-26-06, 07:57 PM
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Do I open or close the shut off valves on top?
 
  #14  
Old 10-26-06, 09:10 PM
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close the zones you don't want to purge, open the one you do. Use the shutoff valves for this. work your way down the line, one after the other. With those yellow-handled shutoff valves, you shouldn't need to mess with the flow-check screws.
 
  #15  
Old 10-26-06, 09:22 PM
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Thanks Thats why I figured. How long should it take to purge all the air? I replaced about 20 feet in a zone thats around 60 feet long. Should I be trying to hold the pressure at a certain level or open the purge valve wide open
 
  #16  
Old 10-26-06, 09:27 PM
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Seems like I can let it purge hours without removing the air.
 
 

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