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Replacing B&G Circulating Pump

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11-01-06, 06:28 PM

mdjbhouse

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Replacing B&G Circulating Pump

I have a pump that 'sqeals like a pig' at times and it has off and on for the last year or so but I forgot about it until now the cold weather is back. This is also an original pump so likley 50 years old.
So I'm oiling it but was wondering if I had to replace it how does one go about that?
I mean after I remove power can I disconnect it without having to drain the water out of the heating system? Like, the motor must just have a shaft that connects to the impleller and there is a seal in the housing that keeps the water on the other side right?
http://www.bellgossett.com/homeowners/CM--PumpCutAway.htm

Actually now that I look at it 'on the web' maybe it is the whole assembly I would have to replace which would mean shutting off the water and draining the system etc. Correct?

Maybe not, show's how much I know about this stuff...
http://www.bellgossett.com/homeown/manuals/1.4.htm

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11-01-06, 08:27 PM

Grady

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Replacing Circulator

If you are replacing the whole circulator, you will want to use one of the newer wet rotor types. You can buy a whole circulator for less than the cost of a bearing assembly for the B&G 100. Let the boiler cool, close any valves you can find, drop the pressure to zero, & remove the four flange bolts. Before putting the new circ in place, be sure to clean off any old gasket stuck to the flanges. I can usually change one in less than 15 minutes. It might take you 30.

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11-02-06, 09:23 AM

Andrew

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I agree with Grady; lose the B&G & get a wet rotor style pump. I replaced my B&G series 100 pump with a Taco 007, and it is quieter & maintenance free.
Gooid Luck!

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11-02-06, 03:59 PM

mdjbhouse

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I'll check it out

Thanks guys I'll check out these new fangled 'wet rotor' types.
It even sounds impressive, you know '007'.

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Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
Radiant in-floor heating problem

S

selfhelp on Sep 23, 2004

I would like to get some input on an odd heating problem. There is a quite new house (a little over 5 years old) in seemingly good condition with a hydronic (radiant in-floor) heating system with 6 thermostats (2 on every floor) each controlling their own respective zone valve. Water is heated by a gas-powered burner for both hydronic and domestic use. The hot water goes into separate (copper) pipes leading to the different heating zones (with a separate zone leading to the hot water tank for domestic use). Each of these zones is controlled by a two-position (normally closed) straight-through valve operated by a Honeywell V8043G1018 4-wire valve head located on the supply (i.e. hot) side in a manifold located above the furnace. All of the end switches for these zones are wired in parallel to the furnace and circulator pump. While these controls and the division of the hot water into the different zones are located in the furnace room (which also houses the hot water tank), there are also separate supply (incoming) and return (outgoing) manifolds located in each zone area. On both the bottom and the first floors, the heating is uneven: even after turning up the thermostat for 3 hours, there are some (isolated) spots which should be warm but are not. For each zone, when the thermostat calls for heat, the motor in the zone valve powerhead turns and closes the switch to start the furnace as well as (what sounds like) the pump and opens the valve to let the hot water through -- as it should. Shortly afterwards, the pipe in the furnace room leading from the valve (controlling the activated zone) and going into the wall becomes very hot to touch. The in-flow supply manifold (where the hot water goes before branching into the various circuits of the area to be heated) located in that zone itself also becomes hot, but the return (out-flow) manifold is at most lukewarm. Is this usual? When I tried bleeding the Taco (bleeder?) valve on the return manifold of one of the first floor zones, colorless lukewarm water (but no air bubbles) came out, but this bleeding did not improve the heating. (Written on this cylindrical-shaped Taco valve is 150 psi, 240 F, Italy, and there is a Schrader valve-like opening which opens when it is depressed.) The other remaining zone on the first floor and the two in the bottom floor have no such valve and so cannot be similarly bled. How can I eliminate the cold spots? On one of the second floor zones, this problem is even more pronounced: while some areas are warm, there are large swathes (entire rooms) which are cold. Moreover, although the controls seem to be working (in the way described above), only one of the three pipes leading out from the supply manifold for that zone gets hot -- which appears to indicate that hot water is not flowing to some of the branch loops in that zone. When I first turned up the thermostat for this zone, I heard the sound of water running in this zone's manifold. Then, when I bled it, there was initially a lot of air bubbles and rust-colored water before it cleared up leaving only colorless water. Surprisingly, when I bled it again about 3 hours later (still with the zone calling for heat), no liquid came out! Ever since then, with the thermostat still turned up, bleeding yields colorless water only sporadically. What does this mean? The other zone in the second floor is even stranger still. On a call for heat, the powerhead for this zone turns on the furnace and pump just as for the others. Now, however, while the pipe (in the furnace room) leading from the hot water source to the zone valve becomes hot rapidly, the section of this same pipe downstream of this valve cools off rapidly to the point that it is merely warm long before it leaves the furnace room. So it appears as though hot water cannot get very far pass the valve -- if at all. I tried to determine if this was because the valve was sticking by removing the powerhead to see whether the motor assembly and valve stem assembly rotate freely -- but both seem fine. When I bleed the valve in the return manifold located in one of the rooms within this zone, colorless water comes out only occasionally -- most of the time there is nothing. What is wrong? Thus, so far as I can see, all of the heating controls seem to be working. Nevertheless, there are obvious problems as described and none of the thermostats get satisfied. Also, the problems on the second floor appeared before this summer. In contrast, the domestic hot water is fine: it is available when it iscalled for, and there is not any noticeable rust. I also checked a gauge on the furnace-pump assembly and it showed a pressure of about 8 psi or 48 kPa, and a temperature of 195 deg F or 90 deg C. The temperature gauge on the hot water tank shows 126 deg F or 52 deg C. Thanks in advance for any helpful feedback.Read More
Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
one of 2 zone valves not working independently

R

rmorales4 on Oct 25, 2006

Hi, this is my first time using this service. Bought this 1973 home this August. Started using the gas/baseboard/2 zone heating system last week. What I noticed wrong so far: Upstairs zone does not work unless downstairs is on. The t-stat on 2fl is loosely attached to wall. the valve at boiler is a Honeywell v8943e1012 motorized valve; date code is F1-9338. when i set t-stat to a temp warmer than the room the valve motor moves but the furnace does not turn on. the lever on the zone valve component effortlessly slides to manual and stays there. still no heat. the synchron motor gets hot to the touch. the first floor t-stat works properly and the lever on the valve has tension when slid to manual and automatically slides to auto. the motor only gets warm. Also, upstairs will heat according the the temp set on t-stat throughout the night. I did notice this morning the temp downstairs was 69* as set, the baseboards were not hot, and i didn't hear them making their usual noisy tinkers and jingles when heating up. So, (finally) my Questions are:Why is this happening & what can I do about it? I am not afraid of tackling this myself if given the know how. I am afraid of spending to much $$ on a pro for anything I could have done myself. Thank you for all your help to all who reply.Read More

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