Honeywell Zone Valve Problems

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  #1  
Old 11-04-06, 03:30 PM
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Honeywell Zone Valve Problems

I have a multi-zoned heating system in my house, about 13 years old. The zone valves are Honeywell V8043G1018. One of the zones does not seem to work properly:

- the zone did not react to the thermostat when call for heat for few days, but now, for the last couple of days, it cannot shut off the heat coming into the zone even when the thermostat is set way below the room temp.

Just wondering where can I check to see if the zone valve is working properly or which part is defective. The thermostat is working properly when I last checked. Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-04-06, 04:59 PM
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Zone Valve

These are operated by 24 volt AC motors. When the thermostat calls for heat, it applies 24 volts to the motor in the zone valve, which opens the valve.

If the valve is open, either it is stuck mechanically, or there is 24 VAC being applied by the thermostat. Open one of the MOTOR leads (I am assuming there are FOUR leads, two for the motor, two for the end switch) and see if opening the electrical connection allows the valve to close. If it does, then it is a stuck stat. If it stays open, then the valve is stuck open. Sometimes you can play with them a bit and get them working if it is stuck--best to replace the power head soon though...
 
  #3  
Old 11-04-06, 05:04 PM
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Zone valve

I can't find that particular valve on Honeywell's web site but most Honeywell valves has a small lever at the bottom of the valve. When the valve is open this lever should be very easy to move. When closed it should take some effort to move the lever.
 
  #4  
Old 11-04-06, 06:08 PM
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valve photo

That appears to be a Canadian part number...

Here's a link to one place that stocks them:

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/L38710.html
 
  #5  
Old 11-04-06, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies. The valve has 4 leads, just check tonite and it seems to be closing again after I have "move" the bottom lever few times, but do not know if it is temporary stuck or not.

What do you mean "replacing the power head..." ? Is it replacing the complete valve assembly and put in a new one ? Is there any simpler way to replace the "stuck part" ? I am kind of worried about draining the whole system and then "bleeding" it again. Last time I did, it took me quite an effort to get it going properly.

Anyone knows a good place to get this part in western Canada... I mean reasonable price ? Thanks for all your help.
 
  #6  
Old 11-05-06, 05:06 AM
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Power Head

There is no need to drain the system.

On most valves, including Honeywell, you do NOT have to change the entire valve! The motor assembly is replaceable--it is called a power head or operator depending on the brand. (On some models you can change the valve parts by unscrewing them as well--usually a cartridge type affair.) I'd think any large plumbing supply house that caters to the heating trades would be able to help you. I'm not sure how those are removed from the valve, Grady will know for sure.
 
  #7  
Old 11-05-06, 07:55 AM
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Power Head

Most likely, if it is sticking, the problem is the motor rather than the whole power head. Honeywell valves are usually trouble free except for the motor (available as a separate part). The motors are easy to replace held in place with one small screw & a tab which slips under a hook.
I have found it cheaper to buy the whole vavle & remove the power head rather than buying a replacement head.
 
  #8  
Old 11-05-06, 09:45 AM
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I will find a replacement valve and replace the motor. Thanks guys for all your suggestions and help. Have a great weekend.
 
  #9  
Old 11-05-06, 01:50 PM
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Replacing Motor

You need not buy the whole power head or a whole valve just to get the motor. The motor is available as a separate part.
Sorry if that wasn't clear.
 
  #10  
Old 11-05-06, 02:41 PM
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Got it. May get the whole assembly, just in case other problems. Thanks again.
 
  #11  
Old 11-11-06, 09:54 AM
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Similar problem

We have a multi-zone hot water system at our church consisting of 3 zone valves operated by 4 thermostats. The heating unit for the basement consisting of a zone valve (old flaire zone valve) and thermostat had been disconnected for several years. Recently the basement unit was reconnected and seemed to be working. However, it was noted thereafter that the basement is heated whenever the other thermostats call for heat. As a result wiring to the basement zone valve was disconnected. However the basement zone is still heated whenever the remainder of the house is heated indicating that the basement zone valve is stuck in an open position. How would I manually close the basement zone valve?

Bob
 
  #12  
Old 11-12-06, 11:31 AM
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Stuck zone valve

Very few Flair zone valves around here so take this for what it is worth: Try tapping on the valve body with a hammer. Sometimes, just tapping will break them loose. If the motor or powerhead is easily removable, do that to see if you can manually turn a stem & close the valve.
 
  #13  
Old 01-28-10, 12:42 PM
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Honeywell Zone Valve replaement

I'm trying to replace my Honeywell Zone Valve power head V8043C1058 with a new one.

The only heat I get is when I open the switch to manual which I then have to turn off when my apartment gets too hot and son on - manual!

I bought a new powerhead for $70, turned off the water supply and proceeded to remove the existing powerhead. Water spilled everywhere once I opened the second screw so I quickly put it all back together.

How do I replace the head?

Thanks for your advice!
 
  #14  
Old 01-28-10, 03:23 PM
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Apartment? You rent? does the landlord know you are working on the heating system? Yer gonna get yerself in deep doo-doo if you 'break' something!

That said, if you have the 'old' style valves, series 1-5, you can not change the powerhead without draining the system. There is a 'conversion kit' needs to be installed in order to use the newer style powerheads. You can tell if you have the old style by the presence of FOUR screws holding the powerhead on, versus only TWO screws on the new style.
 
  #15  
Old 01-28-10, 07:06 PM
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Powerhead

You probably don't need to change the entire head, just the motor. The motor is held in place with one tiny phillips head screw & a tab on the opposite side.
 
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