Burnham boiler with Beckett AGF oil pump
#1
11-18-06, 04:07 PM
Burnham boiler with Beckett AGF oil pump
I posted this in the wrong area a little while ago and thought I would post it here also. I live in Central PA.
I have oil/hot water furnace, and have developed a problem.
Thermostat set at 70
burner cycles to 73, cools to 72, burner to 75, cools to 75, burner to 78, cools to 77, etc
Thermostat replaced 2 days ago with no change.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
I have oil/hot water furnace, and have developed a problem.
Thermostat set at 70
burner cycles to 73, cools to 72, burner to 75, cools to 75, burner to 78, cools to 77, etc
Thermostat replaced 2 days ago with no change.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
#2
11-18-06, 05:03 PM
thermostat
what kind of thermostat do you have? if it is the kind with the mercury bulb, make sure it is level. my mom had the same problem and once i leveled it, it was fine; coincidentally, i am also in central, pa.. bedford county actually.
#4
11-18-06, 05:24 PM
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Temperature control
I presume during all of this firing/cooling the thermostat setting remains constant. If so, is there more than one thermostat? If more than one stat, do you have zone valves or a circulator for each zone? What happens if the wires at the thermostat are disconnected?
#6
11-18-06, 05:45 PM
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Too much heat
Try disconnecting the thermostat wires at the boiler. You could have a short in the low voltage wiring. What is the temperature on the boiler? Does your boiler also supply your hot water for sinks, shower, etc.?
#7
11-18-06, 06:04 PM
When I disconnect the wires at the boiler, what is it supposed to do? When running the boiler for heat, the boiler supplies hot water to the water heater, which distributes it to the house. Otherwise the water heater is electric. Water temp is 175 psi 25?
#8
11-18-06, 06:08 PM
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Too much heat
When you disconnect the thermostat wires at the boiler, the circulator should shut down & within 1/2 hr., the pipes downstream of the flow control valve should cool.
#9
11-18-06, 06:21 PM
Thank you very much Grady and Chev. I will work on this tomorrow as right now I am crosseyed from html and have plenty of blankets so I can turn the furnace off for the night. I will post the results of the test in the morning. Thanks again!!
#10
11-19-06, 06:03 AM
I have disconnected the wires at the boiler. When I did the burner shut off, and there was a small spark when I disconnected ther red wire. I also notices that the low voltage wire had ben wet from a water leak I had about the same time this problem started. Could this have anything to do with it?
#11
11-19-06, 06:36 AM
Originally Posted by Grady
Try disconnecting the thermostat wires at the boiler. You could have a short in the low voltage wiring. What is the temperature on the boiler? Does your boiler also supply your hot water for sinks, shower, etc.?
#12
11-19-06, 06:43 AM
This morning when it was running, the water temp was 205 at 47 PSI. Thanks again!!
You sure thats right?????? the P/R valve should go off at 30PSI. Is the expamsion tank ok???? Id drain some water out now .Get that psi down some like to 15-18
You sure thats right?????? the P/R valve should go off at 30PSI. Is the expamsion tank ok???? Id drain some water out now .Get that psi down some like to 15-18
#13
11-19-06, 07:10 AM
You sure thats right?????? the P/R valve should go off at 30PSI.
My fat fingers got in the way. It was 37 PSI fully running. The P/R valve on this one is 40 PSI. The expansion tank is stamped 50 PSI at 240 degrees. Idle the pressure drops to 20 to 25 PSI. I did drain it down to 18 PSI though. Thanks for the heads up!!!
My fat fingers got in the way. It was 37 PSI fully running. The P/R valve on this one is 40 PSI. The expansion tank is stamped 50 PSI at 240 degrees. Idle the pressure drops to 20 to 25 PSI. I did drain it down to 18 PSI though. Thanks for the heads up!!!
#15
11-19-06, 07:36 AM
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The P/R valve is 40 psi? That doesn't sound right. Do you mean the pressure reducing (or feed) valve? Or do you mean the pressure relief valve? No residential boiler should have either one any higher than 30 psi. The reducing valve should be 12-15 lb and the relief should open at 30.
You better call a pro to look at things before you pop that boiler!
The expansion tank is probably water-logged and if the relief valve has a 40 psi rating the boiler could breech before it opens.
(By "pop" and "breech" you can take me to mean EXPLODE.)
You better call a pro to look at things before you pop that boiler!
The expansion tank is probably water-logged and if the relief valve has a 40 psi rating the boiler could breech before it opens.
(By "pop" and "breech" you can take me to mean EXPLODE.)
#16
11-19-06, 07:41 AM
That 40 PSI is new to me all I have in the books The P/R go off at 30 psi
I dont know. That's what the P/R valve says on the plate. But who knows where they got the parts for the system. It looks pretty patched together.
I was reading this thread about Hammer shock http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=283732 and starting at post #18 he started talking about what sounds like could be my problem. One night i did get frustrated and thumped the control box and it shut off.
I dont know. That's what the P/R valve says on the plate. But who knows where they got the parts for the system. It looks pretty patched together.
I was reading this thread about Hammer shock http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=283732 and starting at post #18 he started talking about what sounds like could be my problem. One night i did get frustrated and thumped the control box and it shut off.
#17
11-19-06, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by azwild
I have disconnected the wires at the boiler. When I did the burner shut off, and there was a small spark when I disconnected ther red wire. I also notices that the low voltage wire had ben wet from a water leak I had about the same time this problem started. Could this have anything to do with it?
