i have two dials on my aquastat, 1 high setting and 1 low setting can anyone tell me i these dials run the furnace or just the circulator. when i adjust the high setting dial above 160 the furnace kicks on. not sure if my aquastat is wired right.

anyone know where i can get a proper wiring diagram for my aquastat.

thanks

 

Sounds like a triple aquastat. How about giving us a part number? Something like Honeywell L8142, etc?

 

HONEYWELL L4081B

still trying to determine problem between this or my circulator.

 

some definitions:

Furnace : Heats up AIR

If you've got a furnace, then you don't have a circulator.

Boiler : Heats up WATER

just so we're all on the same page.

Is your system GAS or OIL fired ?

What exactly _is_ the problem ???

Google can be your friend by the way. I'll save you the trouble
of typing L4081B into the search box.

this link will take you to a PDF file of your control.
It does operate both the burner and the circulator.

customer.honeywell.com/request.cfm?form=60-2105

 

put a post out about a week ago. two zones in my house. one main floor one basement.basement zone only getting hot every once in a while. spent a while adding bleeders to my basement zone and have determined it's not air in the system. so now i beleive it's the circulator that's not working properly. or the aquastat thats not sending proper signal to the circulator.

it's a grundfos circulator

system is at 200 degrees right now and the circulator isn;t pumping anything,

removed the large screw on the side and can't see any movement.

 

OK, you shoulda just kept the other thread going. Starting another thread only confuses the issue... how we to know it's the same system ?

You wrote something in the other thread that I think is a problem:

"i have a grundfos type 15-42f 115v 1ph cast iron circulator. i
removed the large screw thats on the face of it only dribbles of water came out. "

ummmm, you shouldn't get any water out of that hole I don't think.
My guess is that yer circ is hosed.

Do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it ?

The only way to be sure it's the circ and not the control is by testing to see if you have power to the circ. If you have power and it's not turning, then it's bad. (but water dribbling out the impeller shaft hole pretty much confirms it for me)

The way yer control works:

Thermostat calls for heat. Boiler comes up to a min temp set by the circ dial. Circ turns on and will continue to run until thermostat stops calling _OR_ the boiler water drops below the minimum temp. If the circ is "pooched" then the boiler will continue to fire until it hits the HI LIMIT.

so, if yer circ is bad, the boiler will get very hot, then shut off on high limit. You will get some heat, but it will only be gravity circulation. After the boiler cools, the burner will kick on again if the thermostat is still calling, but will shut off again on high limit.

When you turn the high limit UP, as you sed you did, the burner will fire, cuz you raised the high limit.

If that screw thingy in the hole isn't turning, then yer circ ain't circing.

With the boiler OFF put a screwdriver on the screw thingy . Does it turn freely ? or does it bind up ?

 

trooper,

after reading your thread and looking round the net i'm really starting to think it is my circulator that's gone or going as sometime it seems to heat both zones. the upstairs zone has been constantly getting heat but it never occured to me that it could just be from the pressure of the system moving the water. everytime i take the large screw off the circ a steady drip of water comes out and the screw that's attached to the impeller i'm looking at isn't always spinning. the only thing i can do tommorow is purchase a new one and try it out.

i'll let you know the outcome,

thanks again

 

I believe that big screw on the circulator is there so that if the pump sits all summer without running and won't spin, you can loosen it up by working the impeller to free it up. Also, the triple aquastat controls primarily the boiler water temp. It will maintain low limit with a differential unless T-T is made (the thermostat calls for heat), then it will run up to high limit. The most common settings for a conventional boiler is 160F for low, and 180F for high. Since you have more than one zone, you probbably have another relay (or two). THE CIRCULATOR WILL ONLY RUN IF IT HAS POWER TO IT. POWER WILL ONLY GO TO THE CIRCULATOR IF THE RELAY CLOSES THE CONTACTS. THE CONTACTS ON THE RELAY WILL ONLY CLOSE IF THE THERMOSTAT CALLS FOR HEAT AND EVERYTHING IS FUNCTIONING AND INSTALLED CORRECTLY. On the triple aquastat, L1 is line voltage coming from the service switch. L2 is neutral. B1 is line voltage going to the black wire on your burner control. B2 is the neutral for your burner. C1 is line voltage going to your circulator. C2 is neutral from your circulator. The T-T terminals are the 24 volt thermostat wires that go to your thermostat (usually R and W). If the temperature in the boiler is below the low limit, it will not send power to C1 (circulator), and if it is above the high limit, it will not send power to B1 (burner). Your other relay(s), if they are honeywell relays, probbably have T-T, 1,2,3,4,5,&6. The most comon way to wire them is 1&3 is line voltage coming in, 2 is neutral, 4 is circulator (L), and 5&6 goes to the T-T on the triple aquastat. There are several other right ways to wire it. If you have zone valves, then forget about the relays. It might be worth calling someone who is a heating technician to ask before you go spending money on parts that you may or may not need, although if you do, I'll buy the $80+/- circulator for $10 on ebay when you get tired of seeing it.

 

woke up this morning and was set to go and purchase a new grundfos circ.
$200 cdn.
took trooper's advice and put a multi meter to it first and the circ was getting power at the right time just not pumping.
stopped by the place that maintains my boiler and the circ isn't covered under insurance.
had one hour free labour so decided to have a tech come by and make sure i was on the right track.
circulator shot.
he replaced the circulator charged me $215 cdn.
if i bought the pump myself and did the work the price wouldv'e been $229 with taxes

saved myself 15 bucks and didn't have to do a lick of work.
today is a good day!!!!!!!!!
thanks trooper, grady, and hvac emt. all the advice finally got me on the right track.

s.j. guild

 

I love multi-meters! Sure beats using my fingers to check for voltage (yeah, I sometimes do crazy stuff, and no I wasn't barefoot in a puddle of water)!

 

Hey Whitey! Is that you ???

no, I guess not, sorry HVAC, I thought I knew you for a second or two!