L8148E switch relay problem (?)
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts

A nice gift for Christmas :-) In my L8148E unit I am getting 24V from the thermostat on the TV and T (and all the way down to Z) contacts. However, the swithcing relay doesn't kick in and of course nothing else happens. When I close the relay manually the circulation pump starts normally, the damper opens and the gas valve opens too, the boiler starts - everything works fine. Is it a failed L8148E or anything else?
How long can I have the switching relay closed without damaging the rest of the system: it's closed with a little piece of wood between the relay itself and the high limit dial, the boiler starts and shuts off fine when the temperature reaches the limit. I assume only the circulation pump will run al the time.
Thanks!!!
How long can I have the switching relay closed without damaging the rest of the system: it's closed with a little piece of wood between the relay itself and the high limit dial, the boiler starts and shuts off fine when the temperature reaches the limit. I assume only the circulation pump will run al the time.
Thanks!!!
#2
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
L8148e
Do you have any zone valves? If so, are they opening? If they are, the following thermostat test would not apply:
Just to eliminate the thermostat, disconnect it & put a jumper between the wires connected to R & W.
The circulator will continue to run as long as that relay is closed. The house will get very hot. I suggest you get it warm for the night & pick up a new control tomorrow if everything else is working as it should.
Just to eliminate the thermostat, disconnect it & put a jumper between the wires connected to R & W.
The circulator will continue to run as long as that relay is closed. The house will get very hot. I suggest you get it warm for the night & pick up a new control tomorrow if everything else is working as it should.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Grady!
I have a two-zone system. After more time spent on the problem and wiggling all the wires it turned out that only one V80483E valve closes the loop to the TV/T terminals, the other one when opens doesn't. And when the loop is closed, the entire system works (so far...). Must be a switch in that valve? However, still need to check all the wires.
I have a two-zone system. After more time spent on the problem and wiggling all the wires it turned out that only one V80483E valve closes the loop to the TV/T terminals, the other one when opens doesn't. And when the loop is closed, the entire system works (so far...). Must be a switch in that valve? However, still need to check all the wires.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 15
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
For those who want to know the end of that story. It was not the L8148 to blame at all. One of the V8043 valves had a bad contact in a microswitch, which shortens the circuit to the switching relay of the L8148. The signal from that valve was not strong enough to engege the relay. I disassembled that valve, took the switch out, opened it, cleaned. And now everything is OK.
Enjoy your warm houses ! :-)
Enjoy your warm houses ! :-)
#5
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
V8043
The end switch is a weak link in the Honeywell zone valve. I wish I still had a source for those switches. Glad you got things fixed up & running. You might want to get a new power head for the zone valve just to have on hand for when you can no longer repair the switch.
#6
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
New member here 
Just wanted to say that I had a bad end switch in my Honeywell Zone valve (Microswitch part number V5C010SB3X147). Thanks to this thread, I realized that the switch can be (carefully) opened, and the contacts can be cleaned. (I pulled out the contact that can be removed and then cleaned both contacts with sandpaper). Everything is back to warm now

Just wanted to say that I had a bad end switch in my Honeywell Zone valve (Microswitch part number V5C010SB3X147). Thanks to this thread, I realized that the switch can be (carefully) opened, and the contacts can be cleaned. (I pulled out the contact that can be removed and then cleaned both contacts with sandpaper). Everything is back to warm now
