I have a chance to pick up a R7184B for my Becket burner, I'm mainly interested in its intermittent ignition feature.

At present, I have a delay oil valve (V4046A) s installed on the burner with a vintage R8184 control. Since the blower motor doesn't do a post purge cycle on the 7184B , Can I simply wire the delayed valve coil across the burner motor leads instead of having to buy a new non-delayed coil for my original valve and using the timed valve lead on the new control?

I'm pretty sure this work, but I want to make sure it is accepted practice.

Pete

 

There is no problem doing what you described.

Ken

 

The R7184 control seeks out a cad cell signal at 8 seconds into pre-purge if it detects a flame it will lock the burner out. The V4064 delay valve has a very inconsistent delay timing, but most likey less than the 8 seconds, therfore the control will lockout. If you hook up the valve to the valve terminal it will have a 15 second delay before the valve is energized, then the valve will continue with its delay and the burner will light when it opens.

The correct control for this situation would be the R7184A with no Delays.

 

Yeah, there could be a big time timing conflict if it sees flame before it thinks it should!

My other "option" would be to wire my valve on the 7174B delayed valve terminal, I suspect the burner will fire within the 15 second TFI period (4 or 5 second window, ouch), or up the TFI 15 seconds to 30... Either MIGHT work, but this is getting too close to becoming "hack" workarounds for my liking.

Guess I'll hold off until I get the proper valve or non-delayed coil for the one I have and do it right. Thanks for catching that.

Pete

 

Hello is correct and I completely forgot about the pre-purge flame sense. What you can easily do is open the delay valve you have and eliminate the time delay. When the thermistor used to burn out on those valves in the middle of the night, it was easier to eliminate the delay and let the valve operate without it. If you turn off the power, take the palnut off the top and lift the coil off of the stem, you can slip the metal cover off of the coil. You can see the shape of the thermistor under the fiberglass tape. Peel the tape back and twist the whole thing a couple of times. Connecting the leads will bypass the thermistor and remove the delay. Then you can use the valve output on the control and things will work properly. Just be careful that you don't nick the windings of the valve coil as the wire is very thin. If you pay attention to what you are doing, you'll be fine.

Thanks again to Hello for catching my oversight. I feel a little stupid for giving incorrect advice. I hope you can overlook it.

Ken

 

No sweat! No appologies needed, believe me. I've certainly done the same too many times. Thanks for trying to help, that's what counts!

Peter