Oil Boiler Stalling and shutting down


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Old 01-04-07, 08:49 PM
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Oil Boiler Stalling and shutting down

I got an Oil Boiler/hot water with indirect coil(not connected/not being used) HB Smith model FD12-w-4 with Carlin 100crd control stalling. The fire could be heard disapperaring as if it is for lack of oil. First had problem with pump and motor coupling and was replace - it was not pumping oil. Now is pumping oil but oil stop coming out of bleed port for few a seconds then it picks up again and it does it aain and again. pump was originally change by father for a Suntec A2VA-7116 before he called me so was the oil filter. By the way filter holder is at top of tank- dont't know if that is a consideration with new pump- 3 GPH at 100=150 psi. 2 GPH at 150-200 psi. One pipe oil system. The metal ring betwen the squirel cage inside and housing was taken out because it would not stay.
I believe this ring is for air flow and air guiding. But there is a sound not exactly rubbing sound but more like suble woosh sound coming from between the clucth and squirell cage fan. Took 3 litters of oil bleeding the line until it came out solid, but it miss for a second anyways ( no oil comes out bleed line).
turning presure regulator screw counterclockwise originally helped with getting rid off smoke coming out of the bottom of gun assembly and with more oil coming out!

Questions:
Do I have air leak into oil line?
Is filter not the right one?
Is pipe going down to oil tank plugged up?
Is ring between squirel cage and housing necessary? Is it rubbing
against housing making pump stall?
 

Last edited by runsilent; 01-06-07 at 05:49 PM. Reason: more info.
  #2  
Old 01-04-07, 09:10 PM
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Is there oil in the tank ?
 
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Old 01-04-07, 10:15 PM
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Yes, there is between 1/4 and 3/8 of oil in tank.
 
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Old 01-04-07, 10:37 PM
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Wink

By the way filter holder is at top of tank- dont't know if that is a consideration ,??????

First why is it there and not at the bottom of the tank in a bottom bung hole . Id say air leak some where first.filter or line

The metal ring betwen the squirel cage inside and housing was taken out because it would not stay.
I believe this ring is for air flow and air guiding. But there is a sound not exactly rubbing sound but more like metalic bearing damage soundcoming from between the clucth and squirell cage fan.
Sounds like when he put the new pump on. Didnt put the coupling in right????
 
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Old 01-04-07, 10:48 PM
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Talking

filter was at top of tank when we first bought the house and it always worked that way-so we left it there. As for the couplin I cut it the same size as the original and it is turning I can see it. There is only one way to put it in!
tHE RING goes flush withhousing and is the same diameter as squirel cage.
 
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Old 01-05-07, 06:38 PM
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Smile

Problem fixed. Air being sucked into pump. Copper tubing from pump outlet to nozzle port outside was changed ( it seems to be bent out of position and nicked) and re-tighten so every other nuts and fitting on tubing and pump where air could get in.
 
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Old 01-05-07, 08:08 PM
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The line between the pump and the nozzle line does not have the ability to suck air in. If there any compression fittings on any of the oil lines, they should be changed. And now you have changed the fuel pressure as well as removed a static air guide from the burner. The best advice I can give is get the burner readjusted by a professional. The old rule 'if it is lit it is fixed' does not apply here. You are just setting yourself up for a larger problem later.

Ken
 
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Old 01-05-07, 09:13 PM
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Wink

You are right-I thought about it. But all the fittings and nuts were also re-tighten too around pump and seems to fixed the problem. Flame looks good with bright yellow/white colors. Since filter was at top of oil tank the change in presure was done for the additional lift! Inner Ring would not stayed in place so I adjusted the outer air ring to compensate? can't spent all night trying to make it stayed. If it re-occured I'll change the entire assembly/fan.

One more thing, I kind of clean the CAD cell!

Thanks Kfield for caring.
 

Last edited by runsilent; 01-05-07 at 09:17 PM. Reason: Additinal info.
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Old 01-06-07, 01:28 PM
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You shouldn't be changing the fuel pressure without putting a gauge on it so you know what you changed it to. You should never change a fuel pump without checking vacuum first (also with a gauge). You probably just had a dirty/clogged pump strainer to begin with. Now you've got a pump set at less than 100 psi and a missing air shutter. Bet you saved a buck though,...not.
 
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Old 01-06-07, 05:53 PM
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Smile

Pump is brand new. Weren't trying to save a "buck"; don't have equipment yet. Any good gages and co calibration and testing tool you could tell me about so I can buy some? In the mean time had to do it the old way by feel and eye sight!. No soot on flame, not bad eh!
 
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Old 01-06-07, 06:01 PM
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Unhappy no combustion test?

No soot on flame? No smoke gun, no combustion analyzer? Sorry, but you'r shooting in the dark on that one. "Old Way" would be a wet kit.
 
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Old 01-07-07, 07:00 AM
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You said in the original post that your father changed the pump and the oil filter before he called you, right? If he had called a qualified oil service co then he may have gotten the issue resolved for less grief. Probably less $$ too if it was the strainer.
The smoke reading could be as high as #3 before you can see it with the naked eye. That's why service techs use combustion test equipment. But hey, not bad for a butcher-it-yourself job. Cudos.
 
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Old 01-07-07, 09:40 AM
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Unhappy equipment

Originally Posted by runsilent
Pump is brand new. Weren't trying to save a "buck"; don't have equipment yet. Any good gages and co calibration and testing tool you could tell me about so I can buy some? In the mean time had to do it the old way by feel and eye sight!. No soot on flame, not bad eh!
To answer your question, to do it right, the equipment will cost you at least a grand or two. Maybe more for the fancier stuff. For combustion, you'll need either a wet kit or a modern electronic combustion analyzer. You'll need a smoke gun, but a good electronic analyzer has that feature and will measure draft for you too. You'll need an set of gauges for the pumps... Now, by the time you get done have the analyzer calibrated and replacing the CO and other cells every few years, the cost of having a pro do the tuneups every year will pale in comparision. Plus, you really have to understand combustion to get the most out of your instruments and burner. There's a lot of "Tricks" the pros know , like which nozzle brand works best, how to set pressures for the best burn, etc. that take years of field experience to master. I'd feel comfortable changing filters and doing a smoke test to see if a problem is developing, but.... Remember, a good tech needs goods tools, but good tools alone won't make a good tech!

Pete
 

Last edited by radioconnection; 01-07-07 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 01-07-07, 02:20 PM
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Well Said

Originally Posted by radioconnection
but.... Remember, a good tech needs good tools, but good tools alone won't make a good tech!
Pete
AMEN.
The skills to use those tools & the knowledge to interpret the results of the testing takes lots & lots of practice.
 
 

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