Where to add valves for purging 2 zone HW system
#1
01-19-07, 08:19 AM
Where to add valves for purging 2 zone HW system
Hi,
I have a Peerless HW boiler and need to add purging valves to the plumbing.
Circulator pump is on the lower side of unit where the drain valve is. All returns from the baseboard units enter top of pump here.
Supply is on top of boiler and is connected to city water and has all the usual components.
Where in this arrangement should I add purge valves and a hose connection for purging?
Does anyone have pictures and diaghrams of this type of arrangement showing components and where the valves would be?
Thanks
Bob
I have a Peerless HW boiler and need to add purging valves to the plumbing.
Circulator pump is on the lower side of unit where the drain valve is. All returns from the baseboard units enter top of pump here.
Supply is on top of boiler and is connected to city water and has all the usual components.
Where in this arrangement should I add purge valves and a hose connection for purging?
Does anyone have pictures and diaghrams of this type of arrangement showing components and where the valves would be?
Thanks
Bob
#2
01-19-07, 08:42 AM
Bob, the only purging I've ever done well... let's not go there. I'm only familiar with bleeding rads but I believe the principals for this are pretty clear.
You want to completely isolate each zone and be able to feed it at one end and purge the air at the other. Think about any flow check valves in each zone so that the flow will open them instead of force them shut.
You want to completely isolate each zone and be able to feed it at one end and purge the air at the other. Think about any flow check valves in each zone so that the flow will open them instead of force them shut.
#3
01-19-07, 09:16 AM
Im with WHO if you can id put a bleeder valve at the high point of any zone you have in the home. Works better than to have to use purge valves .
#4
01-19-07, 09:27 AM
Ed, I actually wasn't suggesting bleeding instead of purging, just giving a heads up that I had no clue about purging. A bleeder on a high spot is a good suggestion, but you'll have to take credit for that.
I have diverter tees branches so purging isn't an option for me. I'd actually prefer being able to purge if for any reason I have to refill the system - bleeding takes a very long time upstairs with all the riser to the rads. When I do my radiant zone I'll have to learn how to purge in a bucket!
I have diverter tees branches so purging isn't an option for me. I'd actually prefer being able to purge if for any reason I have to refill the system - bleeding takes a very long time upstairs with all the riser to the rads. When I do my radiant zone I'll have to learn how to purge in a bucket!
#5
01-19-07, 03:38 PM
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Purge valves
You need to install a shut off valve (preferably a ball valve) on each pipe before the point at which they come together. Above each shut off valve you then need to install a boiler drain valve on a tee.
#6
01-20-07, 05:19 AM
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It's an easy fix. Install a ball valve before the circulator pump. Just above the valve install a 1 1/4 x 1/2 x 1 1/4 T (the 1 1/4 connections are sweat and the 1/2 inch is threaded or IPS) Install a 1/2 boiler drain into the treaded tapping. This gives you a single purge station. You wont have to move the hose around and don't end up with a leaky drain above a zone valve.
#7
01-20-07, 05:39 AM
Thanks for all ur replys.
Based on the last reply, I am going to install a ball valve on the inlet to the circulater before it goes into the boiler and a boiler drain above the ball valve to which I can attach a hose. Since I have 2 zones and therefore 2 circulators I assume I'll need this arrangement on top of both circulators.
When puging I would assume the furnace should be off and the pressure to move water and air out will come from the autofil on the main water supply in line. Or do I need to increase pressure from the regulator suppling my expansion tank?
Thanks for all your help
Bob
When puging I would assume the furnace should be off and the pressure to move water and air out will come from the autofil on the main water supply in line. Or do I need to increase pressure from the regulator suppling my expansion tank?
Thanks for all your help
Bob
#8
01-20-07, 06:01 AM
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Leave the system off so the circulators dont compete with you. The fill valve should be adequate to make up the water, but if not, most have a lever you can lift for a "fast fill". Just keep an eye on the pressure, or the relief valve will open & will never stop dripping afterwards.
Since you have 2 circs, I would put on on each. Once this is in place, purging will be a breeze.
Since you have 2 circs, I would put on on each. Once this is in place, purging will be a breeze.
#9
01-20-07, 02:39 PM
Job is done and working like a charm.
Thanks for all your help.
Just a note about my system. I have an older 2 story and converted an existing steam system to hot water. Utilized a couple existing steam radiators and installed baseboard as reuquired. The thing that made it all work and easy to install was PEX tubing. Never would have been feasible if I had to use copper.
Now I'm on to Shark Bite fittings and wow do they work well and so easy to use.
Thanks
Bob
Just a note about my system. I have an older 2 story and converted an existing steam system to hot water. Utilized a couple existing steam radiators and installed baseboard as reuquired. The thing that made it all work and easy to install was PEX tubing. Never would have been feasible if I had to use copper.
Now I'm on to Shark Bite fittings and wow do they work well and so easy to use.
Thanks
Bob
#10
01-20-07, 08:41 PM
Yikes...
rbadick, the more you posted the more I cringed thinking about a high pressure purge. Be really careful that you don't hit your system with too much pressure. You have a lot of unknown pressure limits in your situation.
#11
01-27-07, 03:06 PM
i just installed a spiro vent,and i'll tell you that was the best investment.i recently installed a new heating system,and found my self purging the system every two days or so,lots of air.after installing the spiro vent,you could actually hear all the air escaping.no more purging,no more gurgling of baseboards.try it out.
#13
01-28-07, 02:26 PM
im sorry,i didnt mention,that after the install,i only put to high vents on,and they were below the highest point in the system,heating contractor that helped me,suggested the spiro vent,as well i believe some good folks on this site recommended,but like i said, no more air,no more noisey baseboards,all is well.
#14
02-02-07, 03:48 PM
I drained system to add add more baseboard.
Upon refilling the system apparently i had some air pockets that prevented water from flowing in some of the branches.
I have a spiro vent but since I didn't have flow it was of no use.
After fast filling and draining a number of times I finally got most of the air out and water flow.
The air purge valve I added should solve this type of problem in the future.
Thanks for all your help.
Bob
I have a spiro vent but since I didn't have flow it was of no use.
After fast filling and draining a number of times I finally got most of the air out and water flow.
The air purge valve I added should solve this type of problem in the future.
Thanks for all your help.
Bob
