Removing an old expansion tank
#1
02-20-07, 06:03 PM
Removing an old expansion tank
I have a Vent-Rite VR-30 expansion tank, thats 7 years old, it's filled with water and I bought a Watts ET-30 tank to replace it. The Vent Rite is screwed into a Powervent connection that has the automatic air bleeder on the top (I'm not sure of it's name right now, but its made by Taco) The only problem is the expansion tank seems to have rusted in place. The Powervent looks like it's Brass, whats the easiest way to get this tank loose. I cannot use to much force because of all the pipes attached the the PowerVent.
Thanks
Gregory
Thanks
Gregory
#2
02-20-07, 07:48 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
Exp. Tank Removal
Does the device to which the tank is attached look like this?
http://taco-hvac.com/en/products/Vortech%26reg%3B+Air+Separator/products.html?current_category=124
or like this?
http://taco-hvac.com/en/products/Air+Scoops%26reg%3B/products.html?current_category=123
In either case, if the pipes going into & out of it are steel or at least well supported copper, you should be able to put a wrench with a cheater bar on the hex of the tank & unscrew it. If you want, you can try heating the threads with a torch.
When you install the new one, put some teflon tape or a teflon based pipe dope on the threads. To make changing very easy, install a 1/2" ball valve between the air separator & tank.
http://taco-hvac.com/en/products/Vortech%26reg%3B+Air+Separator/products.html?current_category=124
or like this?
http://taco-hvac.com/en/products/Air+Scoops%26reg%3B/products.html?current_category=123
In either case, if the pipes going into & out of it are steel or at least well supported copper, you should be able to put a wrench with a cheater bar on the hex of the tank & unscrew it. If you want, you can try heating the threads with a torch.
When you install the new one, put some teflon tape or a teflon based pipe dope on the threads. To make changing very easy, install a 1/2" ball valve between the air separator & tank.
#3
02-20-07, 08:55 PM
Grady,
it's neither of those, it's 7.5 inches long with PowerVent written on it's side. The Taco Hy-vent screws into the top and the Expansion tank screws into the bottom. I'll get out the propane torch and heat it up and see if that gets it loose. I'll pick up a Ball valve tommorow and try in the morning.
Thanks
Gregory
it's neither of those, it's 7.5 inches long with PowerVent written on it's side. The Taco Hy-vent screws into the top and the Expansion tank screws into the bottom. I'll get out the propane torch and heat it up and see if that gets it loose. I'll pick up a Ball valve tommorow and try in the morning.
Thanks
Gregory
#4
02-21-07, 04:35 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
PowerVent
Sorry Greg, I searched Taco for PowerVent & got no hits. For Power Vent, I got 186 hits but none of them said anything about "PowerVent". In any case, good luck & if you have trouble, we are here & will offer the best advise we have.
#5
02-23-07, 10:54 PM
Grady,
I hit with the propane torch for 40 seconds and it unscrewed easily, it then slipped out of both hands and slid onto the burner with no damage. Weighed about 35 Lbs full of water. I installed the new one, Temp about 185, pressure 29 Lbs. Thanks so much for the help.
Gregory
I hit with the propane torch for 40 seconds and it unscrewed easily, it then slipped out of both hands and slid onto the burner with no damage. Weighed about 35 Lbs full of water. I installed the new one, Temp about 185, pressure 29 Lbs. Thanks so much for the help.
Gregory
#8
02-25-07, 07:44 PM
Grady,
I checked the pressure before installing, it read 24 lbs PSI, i thought it was a little high, 12 lbs PSI being indicated as max. Should I bleed a little off.
Thanks
Gregory
I checked the pressure before installing, it read 24 lbs PSI, i thought it was a little high, 12 lbs PSI being indicated as max. Should I bleed a little off.
Thanks
Gregory
#9
02-26-07, 07:14 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
24#?
Are you sure this is a boiler tank & not a well tank? Pre-charge on a boiler tank should be 12#. In 20 years, I've never seen a tank over charged by more than a pound or two. Make sure it is a boiler tank & get another gauge. Something isn't right.
#10
02-28-07, 08:32 PM
Grady,
The tank is a Watts ET-30, for Hot water heating systems, it's says precharged to 12 PSI, but I checked with 2 gauges and was reading 22-24 PSI, outta the box. Very strange.
Greg
The tank is a Watts ET-30, for Hot water heating systems, it's says precharged to 12 PSI, but I checked with 2 gauges and was reading 22-24 PSI, outta the box. Very strange.
Greg
#11
03-01-07, 03:21 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
Tank Pressure
Hopefully you installed the valve just upstream of the tank because now it will come in very handy. Take the tank off & drop the pressure to 12# for a single story house or 15# for a two story, re-install & adjust the boiler pressure to match the tank pressure. If the pressure still goes up, let me know.
#12
03-04-07, 07:13 AM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Somerset
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I just did the same thing @ my house including dropping the damn thing right on the corner of the boiler unit, just missing the safety valve and my left foot!! Anyway, my tank is an Extrol and had 15 lbs in it, pre-filled. Do you have an air valve on yours? Just let some air out if you can. Also do you have a pressure safety valve built-in your boiler plumbing? My boiler pressure is around 20 when its cycling and slightly less when its not. Make sure the safety valve is working so the pressure can't go too high, could be dangerous...good luck..
