Taco 007 won't kick on

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Old 03-19-07, 04:59 PM
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Taco 007 won't kick on

I have a boiler that runs both steam (1st floor) and hotwater system (2nd floor). I know it's not the most ideal setup.

This problem started a few weeks ago. The thermostat on the 2nd floor would click the heat to on, but the light on the zone switch would not go on (only the power indicating it had power). I replaced the relay in the Taco SR501 and it went back to "normal" (Heat would kick).

It got really cold this past weekend, and this time around, the circulator did not kick on.
I also have a Honeywell Aquastat L6006C that's strapped on the return pipe back that goes back to the boiler. After the Aquastat, it passes through an auxilary switch. I notice this switch has a lever that moves to an open position, when the thermostat on the second floor is asking for heat.

How do I go about troubleshooting this ? I'm not sure whether to start with the SR501, aquastat or auxilary switch. Or even if those are the problem.

(edit)If I need to provide more information, please let me know.(edit)

Thanks,
Scott
 

Last edited by Scott_K; 03-19-07 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 03-19-07, 06:09 PM
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Auxilary Switch

From what you describe it sounds like that switch may actually be a zone valve. Any name or numbers on it? Some pictures of the boiler & nearby piping often is a big help. You can post them on photobucket.com or similar site & provide a link here.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 06:17 PM
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When I say auxilary switch, I believe it is a zone valve. It is an gray box mounted on the pipe that feeds back into the boiler.

It is a Zone Z111000 by Caleffi (24 VAC / 6.5 W / 7VA / 5A 250V) if that helps.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old 03-19-07, 06:27 PM
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Does this help ?

http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s317/Scott_Kwo/?action=view&current=121_2115.jpg

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old 03-19-07, 06:42 PM
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Zone Valve

Here is a link to the tech infomation on your zone valve.
http://www.caleffi.us/Resources/cale_note_t/us/01115_us.pdf

There should be two red wires coming from the valve & going to a relay of some sort. With the thermostat calling for heat & the zone valve open, disconnect those two red wires & using an ohm meter, check for contiuity between them. If no continuity is detected, the end switch in the valve is bad. If you do get continuity, check for 24 volts at where ever those red wires were attached.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:04 PM
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Just Saw Picture

Something looks really strange about the wiring on that zone valve. How many wires go to it (2 or 4)?
Be careful when working on the valve. It could be line voltage instead of 24 volts but according to the model number it is 24 volts.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:17 PM
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Well, no continuity when I disconnect those 2 red wires.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:18 PM
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There are 4 lines. The 2 red ones go to the thermostat screws on the switch relay. Didn't look where the black ones go....checking....
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:45 PM
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2 Black wires go power and thermostat.

Thanks Grady
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:50 PM
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Red wires

When the zone valve opens it should close a circuit thru the red wires & cause the relay to pull in. Does the relay click when the valve opens? If you place a jumper across the terminals of the relay where the red wires attach, does the relay pull in & the circulator run?
 
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Old 03-19-07, 07:58 PM
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The relay does not click when the valve opens.

I put a jumper across the terminals at the relay, the relay clicks and the circulator turns on....interesting...
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:04 PM
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Good Job

I like working with people who, like yourself, will follow instructions. Do you have a multimeter or continuity tester & know how to use it? If so, disconnect the red wires, turn up the thermostat & test for continuity between the red wires once the valve opens.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:22 PM
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Thank you for walking me through this Grady. I disconnected the 2 red wires from the zone valve. There is no continuity when the valve is open.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:26 PM
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No continuity

Sorry I missed your earlier report of no continuity. It sounds like either one of those red wires is bad, or more likely, the micro switch to which they are attached in the zone valve is bad.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:31 PM
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Ok Grady. Thanks for your help. I guess I have to replace the zone valve (whoa those suckers are pricey). I've been checking all of the connections and everything is tight and snug.
Thanks for your help again, I really appreciate it. I've been reading the other post on and off....so go catch some Z's
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:43 PM
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Replacing zone valve

Until tonight I had never heard of that brand of zone valve. If parts are available, maybe you can just replace the micro switch. When I had a source of them, I did it all the time on Honeywell valves. There was a phone number on the last page of that link I posted. [(414) 421-1000] A phone call is far cheaper than a zone valve. The ones I replaced were held in place by one or two small screws thus no having to drain the loop to change the valve. Even if you can't get just the switch, maybe the power head if it includes the switch. Let me know on your progress. Sack time.
 
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Old 03-19-07, 08:51 PM
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The micro switch looks like it's only held in by 2 screws. However, with this type of zone valve, I can push a plastic button in, pull off the entire electical houseing in one piece and it leaves the zone valve in place. So my thinking was to buy the zone valve, but only swap the electrical housing. Hopefully that will resolve this issue and I can stay dry :P

Thanks again,
Scott
 
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Old 03-20-07, 05:36 PM
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Power Head

You could certainly do that but if I could get the switch for $5 & the powerhead was $75, guess what I would be replacing.
 
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Old 03-20-07, 07:50 PM
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If I see I only have to buy the electrical portion, then I'd do that. I checked out a local plumbing supply by me, and he never heard of the brand. He said he only sells honeywell.
Now that I'm reading the post again, I should've tried to call that # during the day. :P
 
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Old 03-21-07, 05:18 PM
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Phone Call

If they won't sell to you directly, maybe they can tell you of a distributor in your area.
 
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