What should be the correct PSI, Temperature for a weil mclean Gold CGa boiler?


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Old 11-09-07, 10:44 AM
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What should be the correct PSI, Temperature for a weil mclean Gold CGa boiler?

Hi,

What should be the correct PSI and Temperature setting for a Weil mclean Gold CGa boiler, that is use to heat 1 floor only? (there is only 1 heating zone for that boiler).

The boiler shuts off at 120 degrees, and starts again at about 143 degrees.

As for the PSI, it is at 30.

I found the control for the temperature, but cannot find the control knob for the PSI... where is it located usually?

Thanks,
Tak
 
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Old 11-09-07, 10:56 AM
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30 psi is too high, is there water leaking out the safety valve?

When was the boiler last serviced?
 
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Old 11-09-07, 01:42 PM
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Tak, does your boiler also heat your domestic hot water ?
 
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Old 11-09-07, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by takkie
The boiler shuts off at 120 degrees, and starts again at about 143 degrees.
You probably mean shuts off at 143 and starts up at 120?

As for the PSI, it is at 30.
Yes, agree with everyone that this is too high and you are at the cusp of having your pressure relief valve trip. Either your gauge could be bad and you really don't have 30, or even yur pressure relief safety valve is limed shut or you do not have a BOILER pressure relief valve in there or something.

Should be more like 12. 12 will deliver enough water from a basement up to even those taller standing old fashion radiators in 2nd floor rooms.

I found the control for the temperature, but cannot find the control knob for the PSI... where is it located usually?
There really isn't a knob, per se. You should have both a shut off valve, in line, and a pressure reducing valve that operates as a water auto-fill. These devices are mounted on the water line that does the water supply filling (not the boiler supply and return circulation pipes) to the boiler from the city water or your well. Look for a device in this line just a number of feet from the boiler, and may even be up by the ceiling, that looks like some kind of vacuum diaphram device. When you find it, look for the end that has the bolt screw with a nut securing it.

If you want to reduce pressure, you have to first drain some water out of your boiler's drain valve at the bottom of the boiler. Drain it down till the gauge reads say 10 psi. Close the boiler valve. Now see if the gauge starts to climb to a higher psi all by itself. If it does, and most likely will, you have to lower the setting of that pressure reducing auto-fill valve.

You first back off on that nut. The nut is just a lock nut. Just loosen it some. Now turn the screw with a flat screwdriver in the direction you normally LOOSEN a screw. (These devices work backwards from common thinking. You would THINK that by tightening down the screw you would close down the valve inside to cut off the water pressure more; and by unscrewing the screw, you'd think you would let in more water. Well, it's backwards from that thinking. I always like to count my turns in half-turn increments so I have some ideas where I started at. If the auto valve never seems to inch it's way toward 12, open it up more. You should actually be able to hear this faint hissing sound of water moving though the pipe when you open up (remember, you will be turning it in the closing-it direction, for adding water; and turning the screw in the opening -it direction for stopping the water flow and allowing the pressure to reduce to that setting) that auto-fil valve screw some. And/or see it spinning the spinner wheel on your water meter if you have one.

If you overdo it, then you'll have to drain more water out the boiler valve again and readjust that auto-fill valve.

Anytime you do any work on plumbing, always have it in the back of your head to be able to quickly run to the house's main water shut off to shut off the main water valve. In your case, either that, or another shut off valve upsteam in that supply line for the boiler. Make sure such shut-off valves can be shut off before starting your work!
 
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Old 11-09-07, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ Trooper
Tak, does your boiler also heat your domestic hot water ?
Hi,

No, the boiler does not heat the domes hot water heater, there is another water heater next to this boiler, and it has gas pipe going into the heater.

Is that what you mean?

Thanks
T
 
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Old 11-09-07, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Who
30 psi is too high, is there water leaking out the safety valve?

When was the boiler last serviced?

Hi Who,

it is a brand new boiler - its less than 1 month old, the person who installed it for me doesnt seem to be knowledgeable enough about these... Its a long story between me and this plumber who put it in for me... but anyhow, i have to pick up whatever that is left off now..

I am not sure where is the safety valve? I have uploaded some pictures.. canyou take a look please?

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04903.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04902.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04901.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04900.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04899.jpg

Thanks,
Tak
 
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Old 11-09-07, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51`
You probably mean shuts off at 143 and starts up at 120?



Yes, agree with everyone that this is too high and you are at the cusp of having your pressure relief valve trip. Either your gauge could be bad and you really don't have 30, or even yur pressure relief safety valve is limed shut or you do not have a BOILER pressure relief valve in there or something.

Should be more like 12. 12 will deliver enough water from a basement up to even those taller standing old fashion radiators in 2nd floor rooms.



There really isn't a knob, per se. You should have both a shut off valve, in line, and a pressure reducing valve that operates as a water auto-fill. These devices are mounted on the water line that does the water supply filling (not the boiler supply and return circulation pipes) to the boiler from the city water or your well. Look for a device in this line just a number of feet from the boiler, and may even be up by the ceiling, that looks like some kind of vacuum diaphram device. When you find it, look for the end that has the bolt screw with a nut securing it.

If you want to reduce pressure, you have to first drain some water out of your boiler's drain valve at the bottom of the boiler. Drain it down till the gauge reads say 10 psi. Close the boiler valve. Now see if the gauge starts to climb to a higher psi all by itself. If it does, and most likely will, you have to lower the setting of that pressure reducing auto-fill valve.

You first back off on that nut. The nut is just a lock nut. Just loosen it some. Now turn the screw with a flat screwdriver in the direction you normally LOOSEN a screw. (These devices work backwards from common thinking. You would THINK that by tightening down the screw you would close down the valve inside to cut off the water pressure more; and by unscrewing the screw, you'd think you would let in more water. Well, it's backwards from that thinking. I always like to count my turns in half-turn increments so I have some ideas where I started at. If the auto valve never seems to inch it's way toward 12, open it up more. You should actually be able to hear this faint hissing sound of water moving though the pipe when you open up (remember, you will be turning it in the closing-it direction, for adding water; and turning the screw in the opening -it direction for stopping the water flow and allowing the pressure to reduce to that setting) that auto-fil valve screw some. And/or see it spinning the spinner wheel on your water meter if you have one.

If you overdo it, then you'll have to drain more water out the boiler valve again and readjust that auto-fill valve.

Anytime you do any work on plumbing, always have it in the back of your head to be able to quickly run to the house's main water shut off to shut off the main water valve. In your case, either that, or another shut off valve upsteam in that supply line for the boiler. Make sure such shut-off valves can be shut off before starting your work!
Hi,

I am not too familiar with boiler stuff - but i am pretty handy... (dont do plumbing usually, usually do alot of electric work...etc...) and i am not sure of where these relief valve is..etc... I have uploaded some pictures,

can you tell me where each component are, and walk me thru it?

Also, at the expansion tank - there is a opening thing, like where you pump air into your tire - what is that for? Is that for bleeding air out of baseboard heaters?

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04903.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04902.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04901.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04900.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04899.jpg

thanks.
tak
 
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Old 11-10-07, 06:13 AM
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you want to have the boiler high limit set to 180 degrees F. the low limit is a 20* preset drop off of the high limit.

On the bottom of your return line on the left side of your boiler is a drain valve. You will need to attach a hose or place a bucket under there to get the extra water you have in your system out of there. to do that you need to shut off the yellow handle ball valve to the left of the auto feed valve. drop the boiler down to around 9-10 psi then close the drain valve.

now the tannish colored valve with the screw type lever on top is the auto fill valve. The nut locks that adjuster in place and needs to be loosened first. You want to turn that screw lever on the valve counterclockwise until it stops feeding water at 12 psi cold boiler then lock the nut. you will need to turn the yellow handle ball valve back on once you have the extra water out of the system to adjust the auto fill
 
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Old 11-10-07, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by brewaholic
you want to have the boiler high limit set to 180 degrees F. the low limit is a 20* preset drop off of the high limit.
I know how to set the high limit to 180 - there is a dial kind of thing inside the boiler area to do that, but I really dont know how to set the low limit...? Also, what is the "preset drop off of the high limit"?


Originally Posted by brewaholic
On the bottom of your return line on the left side of your boiler is a drain valve. You will need to attach a hose or place a bucket under there to get the extra water you have in your system out of there. to do that you need to shut off the yellow handle ball valve to the left of the auto feed valve. drop the boiler down to around 9-10 psi then close the drain valve.

now the tannish colored valve with the screw type lever on top is the auto fill valve. The nut locks that adjuster in place and needs to be loosened first. You want to turn that screw lever on the valve counterclockwise until it stops feeding water at 12 psi cold boiler then lock the nut. you will need to turn the yellow handle ball valve back on once you have the extra water out of the system to adjust the auto fill
While i am doing that - should I turn the boiler on or off?

Should i blow up the heat to 75 for a few hours before I do that? Or leave it cold for a few hours before doing this?

With the auto fill valve, once i start turning the valve counterclockwise - how would i know that it stops feeding water at 12psi? YOu mean the PSI gauge will actually just drop once I turn the valve counterclockwise?

As for my gauge picturers - Is my current PSI at 30? I am not sure which handle is actually pointing for the PSI (The upper red one?)



Thanks,
Tak
 
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Old 11-10-07, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by takkie
I know how to set the high limit to 180 - there is a dial kind of thing inside the boiler area to do that, but I really dont know how to set the low limit...? Also, what is the "preset drop off of the high limit"?




While i am doing that - should I turn the boiler on or off?

Should i blow up the heat to 75 for a few hours before I do that? Or leave it cold for a few hours before doing this?

With the auto fill valve, once i start turning the valve counterclockwise - how would i know that it stops feeding water at 12psi? YOu mean the PSI gauge will actually just drop once I turn the valve counterclockwise?

As for my gauge picturers - Is my current PSI at 30? I am not sure which handle is actually pointing for the PSI (The upper red one?)



Thanks,
Tak

the boiler should be off and cold when you setup the auto fill.

If you turn the the auto fill screw lever counterclockwise a few full turns before opening the ball valve you will be
close to where 12 PSI cold will be. If you listen carefully you can hear the water going through the fill valve. If the boiler gauge goes past 12psi then you know the valve still needs to be adjusted down. If the psi stays lower then 12 you turn the valve screw clockwise a little at a time until the boilers pressure gauge reads a steady 12 psi.

The top needle on the gauge is the pressure. the inside numbers are in pounds. It looks like your at around 25 psi (Hard to read) At normal operating temps you won't get near 25 psi more like 15-17psi

you dont set the low limit it automatically becomes 20* lower then the high limit which you will set at 180*

You are at 25 psi there is an enlargement button for veiwing those pictures
 
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Old 11-10-07, 10:06 AM
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As for my gauge picturers - Is my current PSI at 30? I am not sure which handle is actually pointing for the PSI (The upper red one?)



Thanks,
Tak
BTW the red pointer needle is a user setting tool. The black pointer needles are the gauge needles
 
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Old 11-10-07, 10:38 AM
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sorry for the bad info
on that model you may have to remove the lever assembly by unscrewing it, then turn the screw that's located under the lever. The lever is for fast filling the system and manually bypasses the autofill
 
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Old 11-10-07, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by takkie
Hi,

I am not too familiar with boiler stuff - but i am pretty handy... (dont do plumbing usually, usually do alot of electric work...etc...) and i am not sure of where these relief valve is..etc... I have uploaded some pictures,

can you tell me where each component are, and walk me thru it?

Also, at the expansion tank - there is a opening thing, like where you pump air into your tire - what is that for? Is that for bleeding air out of baseboard heaters?

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04903.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04902.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04901.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04900.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...7/DSC04899.jpg

thanks.
tak
Originally Posted by brewaholic
BTW the red pointer needle is a user setting tool. The black pointer needles are the gauge needles
Hi,

What are the red pointer needle for?

thanks,
tak
 
 

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