UPDATED PICS of new boiler want comments


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Old 11-12-07, 04:36 PM
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UPDATED PICS of new boiler want comments

here are the new pics, i didnt change the flu or pressure relife valve yet this weekend i will. i did change the circs and the feed for the boiler. i also added the flow check valves on the water heater line and zone return line, to help prevent ghost flow. my cirs also have flow check valves. my back flow keeps dripping water someone told me to add a white expansion tank on the feed line. the water feed also now was a pain to purge the system and someone else told me i should have it on the bottom of the boiler. whats more effiecent cold start or the boiler to maintain a temputure with high and low? my indirect is working alot better now...
id like to hear all comments again good and bad.
 
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Old 11-12-07, 05:05 PM
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Tony

Cold start boilers are more efficient, since they don't have to maintain temperature when not being used for heating or DHW. That's probably more of a savings in the summer month's when the boiler doesn't have to keep running 24/7 to maintain 140 degrees.

That being said, unless the boiler is designed for cold start, it probably shouldn't be used that way. I'm not sure what your boiler model is; but yearly cleaning is very critical for cold start boilers! A lot of pro's don't like cold start. It can cause leaking seals on WM boilers with elastomer section seals, and it can cause a boiler to plug up fast if it isn't maintained. Grady or one of the pros can probably answer this better than I can.

Pete

p.s. nice repipe job on those circulators.
 
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Old 11-12-07, 06:42 PM
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its a peerless ect 4 section with riello burner. and 60gallon indirect. everythin seems to be good just wandering about purging he system with the water going through the hole system before going into the boiler.?
 
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Old 11-12-07, 06:51 PM
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Was this project permitted by the local Building Code office and inspected by the plumbing inspector?
 
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Old 11-12-07, 06:53 PM
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A straightforward advice for piping can be found in "Pumping Away" by Dan Holohan. In his simple piping diagram, the purge point would be on the supply side (many manufacturers also suggest this) just after the boiler. For instance, the purge point could be located at the elbow before the straight run to the air separator. That setup would have the water inlet at the separator as you have now. A purge would then flow through each zone, through the boiler, and to the purge point -- basically a complete circuit through the entire system except for the 18" before the separator.

You have a big header on the supply side, but I am having trouble seeing how the zone returns are piped; e.g., I don't see a similar header for the return. If you are jamming a bunch of 3/4" zones into a 1" return line, that might be part of the problem.
 
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Old 11-13-07, 09:24 AM
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once i got the water into the system it purged fine, but it was about 3am by my self doing the work but i relized the next morning why it wasnt purging correctly....i know excatly what you mean about adding the purge point at the elbow.

can i put a temp water feed into the return line at the bottome of the boiler where my orignal water feed was and only use that to purge the system then shut the water off at theat point and keep the water feed at new point under airscoop while boiler is in operation? you can see the tee i have a plug in by my purge point now. i want to redo the return side everything is cramed into a 1"line.
 
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Old 11-13-07, 09:31 AM
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If I understand correctly, the answer is yes. One similar trick is to connect a hose from the indirect drain to the boiler drain. You are now purging with warm indirect water at house pressure. Disconnect when done.
 
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Old 11-13-07, 02:17 PM
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yeah thats a good idea
 
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Old 11-15-07, 02:39 PM
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yes it wrk awesome now.all hot water i can get
 
 

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