Honeywell boiler valve question


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Old 11-17-07, 02:14 PM
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Honeywell boiler valve question

I see that others have had problems with the Synchron valves. Here's mine. Thermostat opens valve, but the circulator does not get the signal. I have three other valves that are operating fine. Just confirm: I need a new valve?
Can I get just the motor, without having to 'unsweat' the valve, since the valve is opening. I need the F5-9342 unit..originally installed about 15 years ago. Where does one get this type of part? Thanks.
 
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Old 11-17-07, 04:34 PM
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here's some info on the zone valves.

If the motor opens the valve but the circulator is not coming on.. you have to determine if the zone valve is the problem or is it some other componet or wiring is not allowing a complete circuit.

Does your model have an end switch? Is the nomally open switch energized once the lever pushes the button. Radio shack or any good electronic parts store has just the micro switch for a few dollars, You can get just the motor or just the head. sounds like the motor is working if the valve opens

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf
 
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Old 11-17-07, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by brewaholic View Post
here's some info on the zone valves.

If the motor opens the valve but the circulator is not coming on.. you have to determine if the zone valve is the problem or is it some other componet or wiring is not allowing a complete circuit.

Does your model have an end switch? Is the nomally open switch energized once the lever pushes the button. Radio shack or any good electronic parts store has just the micro switch for a few dollars, You can get just the motor or just the head. sounds like the motor is working if the valve opens

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf
I am coming into this as a real amateur. I can sweat any pipe, set up any mechanical item, but have some difficulty when electronics/ electric enter the scene.
As I said, there are three other valves operating on this system and when triggered, they signal the circulator. This particular one does not. The valve opens when heat is called for, but the circulator is not triggered. I do NOT know what an end switch is...sorry.
 
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Old 11-17-07, 08:44 PM
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The "end" switch is a small micro sw. within the valves electrical enclosure that, in your case, is supposed to trigger the circ.
The small motor within has 2 screws to hold it in, and a gear on its end. Many times the motor gear, and the corresponding gear connecting to the valves actuator, wear-out together and will open just far enough to allow flow, but not enough to fully engage the end switch.
You can buy the replacement head containing both gears, but I find the cost almost the same(if not more), to get the entire valve and just "rob" the head from it.
Then you`ll not have to "unsweat" anything.
 
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Old 11-18-07, 04:52 AM
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If you are able to change the whole head out you are able to replace the micro switch or the motor on these zone valves

Zone valves are quite simple when it comes to wiring and electric. the valves motor has two wires, and the end switch has two wires to make them work(complete the circuit).

the thermostats job is to supply the motor on the zone valve with voltage when the room needs heat. To do this you need to supply one feed from the transformer to the thermostat for switching purposes then from the thermostat to the zone valves motor lead.

The other wire from the transformer goes to the other motor lead on the zone valve to complete the circuit.

now when the motor gets voltage its gear turns a mechanical gear with a lever on it in the zone valve.The gear opens the valve and then the lever makes contact with the push button on the side of the micro switch. The switch then closes and then turns on the heater/circulator(two wires).

So if you take a flashlight and look at the zone valve gear with the lever on it, when the motor is turning the gears, you can see where the button is on the side of the micro switch (end switch).

Take a small flathead screwdriver and manually push the button down. Does the heater/circulator go on? If it does.. the end switch is okay. Now have someone turn up the thermostat and see if the lever is pushing the button all the way down when the valve opens. These two things will help you determine where the problem lies and what you need.

if the heater doesn't come on when you manually push the button down the problem is either the end switch or the heater wiring/relay(s.

If the lever doesn't touch the end switch it is more then likely a bad motor but sometimes can be the valve head gears
 
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Old 11-18-07, 09:54 AM
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Thank you...got it!!! Turns out that the mirco switch is bad. I could activate the others by pushing the button on the switch, but on the 'bad' one, no dice. So...how do I get JUST the switch? Easily cheaper than a whole new unit.
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan Seglin View Post
Thank you...got it!!! Turns out that the mirco switch is bad. I could activate the others by pushing the button on the switch, but on the 'bad' one, no dice. So...how do I get JUST the switch? Easily cheaper than a whole new unit.

the easy way would be to label the wires attached to the zone valve then remove the head from the valve by loosening the two screws caddy-corner from one another on the head plate. withe the lever locked in manual bypass wiggle the head counter clockwise clockwise while gently pulling the head towards you to remove. the end switch is held onto the plate by two small screws. the cardboard is there to keep the leads from shorting out on any metal.

open the cardboard and remove the screws. then cut the wires close to the switches terminals

take the switch with you to radio shack or electronic supply store they will match it up

if you do not have a 15 watt soldering iron, I'd buy a cheap one while you are there or home depot has them for 5 bucks

you will need to solder the two leads back on to the switch before installing it back onto the board with the cardboard insulator wrap.

install the head and rewire
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:26 AM
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The switch is now in may hand...will venture to Radio Shack in the morning. Isn't the internet great!!! I feel so great not having to call a Service in to do this work...
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan Seglin View Post
The switch is now in may hand...will venture to Radio Shack in the morning. Isn't the internet great!!! I feel so great not having to call a Service in to do this work...
BTW did you try to touch the two wires that were hooked up to the end switch on the zone valve to see if the heater kicked in?
This would prove it was the switch and not in the wiring or heater circuit
 
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Old 11-18-07, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by brewaholic View Post
BTW did you try to touch the two wires that were hooked up to the end switch on the zone valve to see if the heater kicked in?
This would prove it was the switch and not in the wiring or heater circuit
Yep...touched them together and the circulator snapped right on . The switch is shot!
 
 

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