Leaking around tankless coil plate?

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Old 12-11-07, 05:13 PM
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Leaking around tankless coil plate?

Greetings from New Hampshire again,
Tonite as I ventured downt the basement to check my oil tank, i noticed water on the floor at the boiler. Utica FHW, single zone, also supplies my domestic hot water. The black bolted plate where my cold domestic enters the boiler coil and my hot domestic comes out is leaking on the perimeter edges. Is this just a gasket issue? The boiler is 4 years old.
This was an installation I did on my own so the labor is not a problem. Regular cleanings, nozzles, specs are done on a yearly basis.
thanks in advance.
-Bob
 
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Old 12-11-07, 05:25 PM
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Sounds like a gasket issue. But, if the bolts and nuts are rusted, it could get ugly if you snap one of the bolts because of a seized nut!

Go carefully.

Pete
 
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Old 12-11-07, 05:49 PM
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Thanks radio....
from the outside appearance, the nuts still appear brand new. who knows what the threads will be like. I'll find out in the morning. Would you think the red rubber rated for around 300* should suffice for a replacement gasket?
-Bob
 
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Old 12-11-07, 06:04 PM
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The red rubber is OK for gasket material or order a gasket where you got the boiler. Just for your info....an experienced tech would have checked the bolts at the time of installation and this problem would not be. Is your aquastat set properly? Is the burner set up properly? Is the boiler properly sized? Was it installed according to code?
 
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Old 12-11-07, 08:10 PM
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Part of the annual tune-up should include tightening of the tankless coil gasket bolts (or nuts), tightening all stem seals on all valves that have them, tightening of flange gasket bolts, oiling motor shafts and filling cups if so equipped, checking the relief valve for proper operation and tricator function, checking the expansion tank for proper operation, checking the feed valve for proper feed pressure, and checking all smoke pipe for corrosion. This is in addition to removing the flue pipe and vaccuuming the bottom of the chimney, taking off the flue collector and baffles and brushing down the boiler and re-cementing everything back in place, removing the burner and vaccuuming inside the combustion area and inspecting the combustion chamber for damage, changing the nozzle and inspecting the head, inspecting the electrodes and adjusting them, changing the screen, re-installing the burner, changing the filter, starting up the unit, adjusting combustion, adjusting aquastat settings by actual temperature readings and confirming high limit shut-off. Confirming lo limit setting for circulators, bleeding air out of zones, draining bottom sediment of boiler, manually releasing air from air scoop and confirming proper operation of air bleeder. WHEW! I'm getting tired. Well, THAT is the difference between a $79.00 tune up advertised in the ($&(%^@#$^% and a REAL tune-up for $175.00.
 
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Old 12-11-07, 08:18 PM
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One thing I forgot to tell you. The boiler is only four years old---OK. If you haven't tightened up the coil gasket since installation, be real careful when you go to tighten them. You may have to 'work' the nut or bolt back & forth a little at a time till it loosens up. If it feels like it ain't moving no matter what, leave it alone! DO NOT use 'jerky' motions on them. Nice gradual torque on them or else! Sometimes 'hitting' them on the head with a hammer will loosen them up. Chances are 50-50 on a 4 year old boiler though. You may get lucky and ALL the bolts will be loose enough and move for you to tighten up. I doubt it very much that you need a new gasket at this point in time, seriously doubt it. Good luck, Charlie
 
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Old 12-12-07, 08:28 AM
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You might want to give them a spray with some PB Blaster and let it soak overnight.

When I had to replace my gasket, 6 of 10 bolts sheared off and 2 other ones were so thin I had to cut them. I saved 2
I had to clean up all the corrosion with a grinder and drill and tap for the new studs. Then I used "leak lock" around the threads, well I had no leaks when the system was cold but once it reached temp the leak lock turned back to gooo so I had leaks out the threads. I had to remove the coil and studs and reapply leak lock. I let it setup for 24hrs and no leaks (now I'll porb go home and have a leak ). Hopefully you won't have that problem, though. As boilersrus said, try tightening them first.
 
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Old 12-12-07, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by boilersrus View Post
Well, THAT is the difference between a $79.00 tune up advertised in the ($&(%^@#$^% and a REAL tune-up for $175.00.
Charlie, come on down to Joisey... there's $300 waiting on the table for ya! AND a fresh pot of coffee...

It amazes me how much money ppl will spend on their automobiles without a second thought, but when they get a $200 bill for servicing their boiler, they freak... IF they even have it serviced each year !
 
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Old 12-13-07, 04:23 PM
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Loose bolts on plate

Thanks to all who replied to my question about the leaking coil plate. To my surprise (and shame on me) each of the bolts were loose. Now tight and leak is gone. Oil Co. tech came out also when I called and charged me $135 for the visit. It was a good investment. I am never to old to learn a lesson. Thanks to all.
-Bob
 
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