I have my eye on one of these on e-bay for $ 140,-.
I'm not sure though if I can use it on my system. Looking for the opinion of this learned crowd.
My furnace uses a Tjernlund SSC1 Sideshot power venter.
A call for heat activates the sideshot motor which in turn closes the fan proving switch which turns on the burner and circulator. If I just insert the HM in series with the burner circuit in the aquastat, the system will work, however, the sideshot will run unnecessarily when the HM turns off the burner (the sideshot thinks that the burner is still on).
Also there is a 2 minute post purge run after the call for heat ends.
How do I get around this??
Is there a way to insert the HM into the sideshot rather than the burner motor??
Is anybody running a heat manager with a power venter??
Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I was able to find all the literature for my furnace and controls. I figured out how everything is interconnected and I am able to use the heat manager with my system.
The aquastat activates the sideshot venter which turns on the burner motor. By insering the HM between the aquastat and sideshot venter, it should work just fine
Cheers

 

Sorry there was no help for ya this time !

But, I had faith in ya ! I knew you'd figure it out !

Let us know how it works out for you...

 

Thanks Trooper,
this morning I went to a local heating supply house to buy a heat manager. They didn't have one in stock but could get it in for the afternoon. I asked him how much it was and he quoted me the Canadian Price *** $ 450.- plus 13% tax***
WTF
After I picked myself off the floor I told him thanks but no thanks and informed him that I can buy the same unit through e-bay from NY for $ 150.- plus $ 24.- S&H.
I just submitted the order and will hopefully receive the unit before winter is over. I would've preferred to buy locally and be able to install the unit now but I'm not paying 3 times what it's worth
Some of the prices for stuff we have to pay here in Canada are a &*$%@ ripoff.
end of rant

 

Aint that the truth! When our dollar drops, prices go up, when our dollar goes up, nadda, unless you cross-border shop.

 

Did you get it installed yet? How is it working out for you?

Mine has been running a few months and it really seems to have cut down the short-cycling problem I've always had with my HS Tarm OT35 boiler.

I also think there is a possibility that we might actually be saving some fuel too. But, I can't say for sure since my wife has just retired some months ago and the thermostat program is completely different now.

Here's mine:

I added an RF filter to the sensor input line, due to RFI that gets into most stuff here.

 

It looks pretty good there, nice work.

 

I said 'Hey Who' when I should have said 'Hey torpedo203'!

Thanks for your comment anyways, it's a pretty easy install.
Takes all of 10 minutes, if you are an old retired guy.

 

Every time you crank up the 30L1 ? or was that the Ameritron ?

I can just hear that boiler short cycling now:

dah di dah dit
dah dah di dah

PM me is you know what I'm talking about... 73 OM

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WRKO
I'm 1.88 miles (direct line-of-sight) from the antennas, so I can pick up 'talk radio' with my few remaining teeth.
So, almost everything electronic needs good grounds and ferrite blockers.

I've been here since 1973 and whenever anything (alarm system etc) starts acting up, it gets a filter or two.

And of course, you are right about my Ham gear. The HF power comes from an old AMP International. I also found that 100W on VHF or UHF could cause problems in the house.

RFI never zapped the boiler, but back in the days when I had solar hot water collectors on the roof, Ham radio wasn't too good for the heat exchanger control unit.
Those relays (and pumps) would have wore out pretty fast without any ferrite blockers installed.

Anyways, the Beckett Heat Manager 7512 uses a plain old phone cable for the remote heat sensor. When I had some odd burner events, I added the ferrite blocker just to be sure that RKO talk radio wasn't a factor. Didn't seem to help.

When I told Patriot-Supply about the problem, they were real nice and sent me a new 7512 and UPS pickup label for the old one.
I've also changed the flame control unit on the burner, replaced the manual burner cut-off switch, tightened up all the oil line fittings & rechecked every AC & control terminal I could find.

I hate those intermittent type problems that only occur once in a blue moon.
But I'm getting pretty confident that this one is gone for good.

73,

 

All of the ground loop problems seem to be fixed or gone away with the Heatmanagers. I do not care for the fragile temp sensors though. Be careful not to move it around after the zip ties have been cinched up. It is only a SMT semiconductor that touches the pipe and can be damaged easily.

And put it in bypass mode when running a kw on 20m CW.
di di di dit di dit

Ken

 

Bunch of lids.

de k1zjh

 

There goes the neighborhood.

de KA3EED

 

I'm not too sure if the sensor chip actually comes in contact with the pipe. I've looked at two of them now and both looked like the chip was recessed back into the plastic carrier just a tad.

Just to be safe, before installing this these things, I cover the sensor hole with a thin sheet of plastic heat transfer material.
This material is the non-sticky version (but thicker) of what gets put between a CPU chip and it's heatsink. It conducts heat real well. I've used it on a lot of microwave RF amps. (That would melt without a heat sink)..

 

That's a good idea. I may try metal tape next time I have to put it on a black pipe fitting. Thanks.

If it didn't touch, I don't think it would be sensitive enough. But I'll check the next one.

Ken

 

Might slow things down a tad, but it should still work okay, since the air space around the sensor is pretty small.
The air trapped inside there is going to get hot pretty quick.

If I was the mechanical designer and I was stuck using an unprotected sensor chip, I would leave a gap too.
Since if it was sticking out, yanking on the cable ties just might smash the heck out of it. Or, maybe a springy rubber pad under the PCB.?.