Changing circulating pump Need Help

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Old 01-31-08, 08:24 PM
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Question Changing circulating pump Need Help

Hi All I have an Armstrong Model S-25 circulating pump that is leaking can I just by a repair kit? When I go to replace the pump do I have to drain all the water out of the system? I was thinking of shutting off all my radiators and keeping the water inside them but is there a way to do it without draining the boiler?
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Old 01-31-08, 09:18 PM
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flange shut-off vavles

NO !! you'll have to drain the water and bled the system once you're done. But just so you know , there's a company that makes flange shut off vavles. You just replace the outer flanges with the new ones that have a ball vavle built into the flange . So if this happens again you simply shut the vavles off and unbolt the circulator body and replace it.
 
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Old 01-31-08, 09:30 PM
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You can buy the kit, but you would be better off buying the bearing assembly. You also might want to install valve on both side of the pump. This will keep you from the water clean up. Unless you have some kind of way to drain the system.
 
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Old 01-31-08, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pipedoctor View Post
NO !! you'll have to drain the water and bled the system once you're done. But just so you know , there's a company that makes flange shut off vavles. You just replace the outer flanges with the new ones that have a ball vavle built into the flange . So if this happens again you simply shut the vavles off and unbolt the circulator body and replace it.
So do I bled the system first? I seen the flange shut off valves I wish I had them in already

So your saying not to shut off my radiators? to let all the water out of my system? Then I will have to put loads of new water in
and did you say no to the Kit as well? Thanks for your time!
Tony
 
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Old 01-31-08, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gaclements View Post
You can buy the kit, but you would be better off buying the bearing assembly. You also might want to install valve on both side of the pump. This will keep you from the water clean up. Unless you have some kind of way to drain the system.
Sorry when I said kit I should have said bearing assembly I also found the bearing assembly I need for about 80 bucks can't I just take out the bearing assembly without draining all the water I know I'm being redundant I have 30 feet of water to drain I would think if I shut off all my radiators I would have that less to put in, or is what your telling me if I shut my rads off air will be trapped in between the rads causing me a nightmare?
 
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Old 01-31-08, 09:45 PM
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Then the last question is After I drained all the water out how do I get the water back up to the second and third floors?
Again Thanks for the input
Tony
 
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Old 02-01-08, 03:47 PM
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The bottom line is that you do NOT want to drain any more of the system than is necessary to do the repair.

How much of the system you need to drain all depends on how the piping is arranged, and if the installers thought to include valves in the system that will let you isolate sections of the piping so you don't have to drain them.

If you back up with the camera, and take pics of the valves and pipes around the boiler so that we can see how it's connected, we can give you better advice.

It's really up to you whether you want to spend the time to rebuild the pump, if you feel capable of doing so, or just replacing the whole pump.
 
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Old 02-01-08, 09:42 PM
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Do you have a valve on either side of your pump?
 
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Old 02-02-08, 09:20 AM
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It is my experience that just changing the seal in that style of pump usually does not solve the leaking problem. I strongly suggest that you replace the entire bearing assembly or install a cartridge-style pump.
 
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Old 02-02-08, 01:57 PM
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Bearing assembly

Here is how to replace the bearing assembly without having to drain the whole system IF the bearing assembly comes with an impeller:

(1) Turn off power to the boiler at the switch or breaker.
(2) Shut off every valve you can find (especially the feed water).
(3) Remove the motor from the bearing assembly & put some place where it can't get wet.
(4) Allow the boiler to cool to around 100.
(5) Open the boiler drain or relief valve to drop the boiler pressure to zero.
(6) Remove the four (9/16"?) bolts holding the bearing assembly to the circulator body.
Now you have to work quickly.
(7) Use a screwdriver to scrape any old gasket from the circulator body.
(8) Install the new gasket. TIP: A light coat of #2 Permatex or any sticky pipe dope on the circulator body will help hold it in place.
(9) Install the new bearing assembly & bolt it up.
(10) Reinstall the coupling & motor.
 
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Old 02-02-08, 02:02 PM
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Buy a big box of disposable diapers before you start ! They absorb a tremendous amount of water !
 
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Old 02-02-08, 02:13 PM
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Diapers

Once the pressure is down & air can get in except thru the hole where the bearing assembly comes out, he shouldn't loose more than a pint or so. I'd rather change a bearing assembly than a whole circulator. Once the new bearing assembly is inserted, you can hold it in place tight enough to prevent air from going in & water out while you bolt it up.
 
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